BillFitzmaurice.info

Tom Smit wrote:
P.S.-rather than getting the Dremel tool, you should get a regular router if you're going get one. The Dremel is to light-duty.

+1, and dont spend too much if your only using it on plywood. i bought this one for "weekend warrior" use and it works great. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1 ... ogId=10053

Thanks Tdogg and Tom!

I guess it's not bad that I have to cut again, it gives me practice for the angle cuts. However, i think i may want to invest in a table saw at some point. It takes me forever to do one cut.

Yeah, that Dremel thing seemed very light in weight. Thanks for recommending that Ryobi router. I have the circular saw and I just purchased their Jigsaw and i'm happy with it.

I am at the baffle and spacer part. I cut out the spacer today.

Can someone please elaborate a little on this step? Also, what is the purpose of the baffle?

Thanks.

the cone fires through the baffle slot (slot loading increases sensitivity over the pass band I believe). I *think the ring is there so you have a solid inch of wood to mount your driver to, although I'm sure there is a design related reason other than that.

Thanks Sine.

I used a jigsaw so the cut isn't pretty. Do i need to worry about cone slap? I move the speaker up and down and it looked fine. Any suggestions or concerns?

the spacer is so the cone won't hit the baffle. Having the extra 1/2" of wood for the screws is a big plus.

SeisTres wrote:the spacer is so the cone won't hit the baffle. Having the extra 1/2" of wood for the screws is a big plus.

Thanks.

Did you use hurricane bolts or regular drywall screws?

RENDOG wrote:

SeisTres wrote:the spacer is so the cone won't hit the baffle. Having the extra 1/2" of wood for the screws is a big plus.

Thanks.

Did you use hurricane bolts or regular drywall screws?

I used hurricane nuts and bolts (all from speakerhardware) for all my titans as they are using the bp102 as well as using them for all the titan's access covers. However, for every other build I have done, I went with regular wood screws as they seemed to work just fine and hnut/bolts all handles.

the t18 was the first one I built and the one that has been used the most, only has the 1/2" as it has no spacer, has regular screws and i've had zero problems with it. The jacks have mcm beta clone which only has four mounting holes and they too are using wood screws, but I did have to tighten them once.

But to be on the safe side, for the amount of work these subs take, I would still use h-nuts and bolts for all the pro subs, and all handles. Wood screws for mounting the top's drivers, access covers and anything for home use.

I have the hurricane bolts from speakerhardware, but the instructions call for 1 3/4 or 1 1/2. The ones I have are 1 inch including the head.

The instructions read as such...You may use 3/16"x1.75" Allen socket head mounting bolts and blind T-nuts or Hurricane nuts, but with the very light weight of the Neo drive and the full inch of backing material 1 1/2" screws are OK

Do you understand that as in it's ok to use regular 1 1/2" drywall screws or that the mounting bolts can be 1 1/2"?

I believe the 1.75" are for 3015lf as it has a bigger gasket. Anything else will do fine with 1.5". I too have the 1" but I think they might be a little short for mounting the driver. To check, just get two scrap pieces and lay the driver on top of them. Measure what is the total width of the two panels and the driver gasket. I think you might need the 1.5" bolts.

The quote is saying that if you're going for the neo magnet drivers, relgular wood screws are fine and hnuts/bolts are not required as it has a full 1" of backing material. And yes, they still have to be 1.5"

I don't want to wimp out on the hurricanes but I'd like to continue the build.

If I decide to use drywall screws, should my next step be to place the speaker on the spacer and on the baffle and then drill pilot holes for the drywall screws?

If yes, when it comes time to mount the speaker, do u use a screw driver to get in that small space?

RENDOG wrote:I don't want to wimp out on the hurricanes but I'd like to continue the build.

If I decide to use drywall screws, should my next step be to place the speaker on the spacer and on the baffle and then drill pilot holes for the drywall screws?

If yes, when it comes time to mount the speaker, do u use a screw driver to get in that small space?

Even if you're using screws, you should first fit the driver (like actually mount it) to so be completely sure you have it right. This is even more important if using hnuts are they can be tricky when accepting the bolts.

The way I did did it was to mark the holes on the spacer and mark exactly the outline of the driver as this way you can see if it's centered. THEN, was to glue the spacer on the baffle. let dry. Then, drill the holes marked by using the driver. Mount hnuts, and fit the driver. If using screws, just skip the mounting of hnuts but still fit the driver. Then, and only then, do I start installing panels.

It is almost impossible to work inside the cab once they are built, it is better to make sure you won't have any problems. And to screw the driver in, just use a right angle screw driver, a little ratchet, or one of those thumb ratchets they sell. I actually used one of those flexible extension for my first build but then after it got all mess up and I bought a little ratchet, turns out that the flexible ones don't provide enough torque.

RENDOG wrote:I don't want to wimp out on the hurricanes but I'd like to continue the build.

If I decide to use drywall screws, should my next step be to place the speaker on the spacer and on the baffle and then drill pilot holes for the drywall screws?

If yes, when it comes time to mount the speaker, do u use a screw driver to get in that small space?

Do Not Use Drywall Screws To Hold A Driver To The Baffle!

Drywall screws lack the holding power, and the shaft strength, to securely hold the driver in place. Spend the chump-change for the Recex Head Speaker Mount Screw 1-1/2" X#8
BUY ONCE - CRY ONCE!

DJPhatman wrote:

RENDOG wrote:I don't want to wimp out on the hurricanes but I'd like to continue the build.

If I decide to use drywall screws, should my next step be to place the speaker on the spacer and on the baffle and then drill pilot holes for the drywall screws?

If yes, when it comes time to mount the speaker, do u use a screw driver to get in that small space?

Do Not Use Drywall Screws To Hold A Driver To The Baffle!

Drywall screws lack the holding power, and the shaft strength, to securely hold the driver in place. Spend the chump-change for the Recex Head Speaker Mount Screw 1-1/2" X#8
BUY ONCE - CRY ONCE!

Can i get those locally?

RENDOG wrote:Can i get those locally?

Possibly. You don't list a city in your profile. Do a local search for a company named "Fastenal"
Also, search for "Recex washer head #8 1.25"
Or, just buy them from Leland at speakerhardware.com. They should have been in your kit.