BillFitzmaurice.info

CarterKraft wrote: ↑Thu Sep 29, 2022 8:28 am
I also realized I skipped the dampening foam (I guess I got too excited) so I need to revisit that.

You need to do that before any more testing.

Yeah sort of a dUH moment huh.

I was researching the AudioTool app and found the thread of the 2x10 Omni 15 TB and thought wow that padding looks good then I realized I didn't do that

CarterKraft wrote: ↑Sun Sep 25, 2022 9:28 pm As it sits with the same tune as in the video it does 29.2v to the woofer before clipping on a 36v DC supply.
On 24v DC it made 21.4 and seemed like noticeably less output.

I am just messing around getting familiar with all this stuff until I get the mic.

Difference of 2.7dB. "Seemed like noticeably less output" would be just about the right description.

You didn't happen to check one of the other channels from the mid or tweeter, did you?

No I didn't.

I got the imm-6 last night and got my tablet loaded up with AudioTool and the calibration file.
I might be able to do some tuning Sunday, I'm looking forward to it.

Eh, it's really unimportant anyway. Was just curious.

Should be fun. I'm excited for you.

I forgot to add but in he DSP EQ window of the slider-less version I found you can click-move the response curve in 2D like you would a slider except you can change frequency and dB just by dragging.

That should bridge the gap for me to understand what I am changing, or wanting to change.

Looks like you can also adjust Q in the same way.

Choose a point in the drivers native response curve that's about half way between it's highest point and lowest point in the bandpass to be your target centerline. It doesn't have to be exact.

Bring the broadest deviations to target level first. Then work your way down to the narrowest deviations.

I didn't get to this until late Sunday and I added a bag of quilting padding to the cabinet in all the large surfaces and the back cover so that step is complete.

I thought I better take a trial run at it in my shop before moving to a more suitable location and I'm glad I did.
I spent a hour or so trying to get the DSP project I built to work to no success.

IT was hard to explain, I could get the phone connected and start playing pink noise but any change in the DSP would kick me off and I would have to power down, repair BT and start again. There was some terrible feedback, popping etc. so I finally aborted the project I made and reverted to the last project I was using that I had modified. I was able then to get the pink noise playing at 85 db range and adjust the EQ's for the woofer and see the changes like I will when I finally get to tune it like I intend.

Researching this morning what could be wrong I found a pretty glaring mistake. I used the I/O pins 0 and 1 for my signal but those are for the Line In not bluetooth....
Pins 4/5 are bluetooth so I added them to the Input and turned off 0/1 for the time being.
Drinking from the fire hose I tell yah.

I will give it another go one day this week after work.

It's the speed bumps that make the finished project so much more rewarding. That's what I always tell myself, anyway. Whether it helps or not in a moment of despair and frustration is hit and miss.

Keep at it. You'll get it sorted sooner or later.

Exactly Seth, the struggle is the "fun" part LOL.

I need to get all this figured out because I will do it again on the Jack 12Lite.
There is SO MUCH capability in the Sigma Studio suite it gets overwhelming fast.

I could never actually determine how to enable the I/O pins 4/5, I just copied the Input block from the working project that already had them populated.
I need to go back to the Sigma Studio guide, I keep forgetting about it and there really isn't much info to that level in the Dayton manuals.

Edit:
Re-Reading the wiki page on https://wiki.analog.com/resources/tools ... x/io/input I remembered oddly enough Zoom has something to do with the ability to interact with any of the modules. If you zoom in/out too far you can only move/place modules not interact.
So reopening the project in the default zoom I can select/de-select all 9 pins no problem.

Oh... I forgot you also plan to build a J12 Lite. I'm V E R Y curious to hear your impression of the two once they're both all tuned up.

Isn't there a way to pair up 2 speakers to one Bluetooth? My imagination is running to a wireless, battery powered, sub and top.

Seth wrote: ↑Mon Oct 03, 2022 11:36 am Oh... I forgot you also plan to build a J12 Lite. I'm V E R Y curious to hear your impression of the two once they're both all tuned up.

Isn't there a way to pair up 2 speakers to one Bluetooth? My imagination is running to a wireless, battery powered, sub and top.

Yes absolutely you can "cascade" the signal to another KABD amp, although I don't yet know if that is wireless or wired. There is a master/slave jumper on the board.
I had the same thought about building a sub to pair.

Man another tough DSP lesson.
Something is wrong with my "from scratch" build, it has terrible bluetooth connectivity, doesn't output sound etc.
It even causes some pretty significant heating of the processor.

So I modified (AGAIN) one of my working mono 3 way projects to have the correct features we discussed.
Just by ear it seems the tweeter is out of phase so I flipped it in software, I may permanently change the wiring so I don't at some point forget.
I think I am ready to go outside and try the process, volleyball tonight, so maybe tomorrow night.

Final detail question.

What distance do I set up the Microphone from the speaker?
I was planning on setting the tablet on a TV tray out at the 30'ish distance but I started thinking that was just an assumption and might not be the correct location.

CarterKraft wrote: ↑Wed Oct 05, 2022 7:39 am Final detail question.

What distance do I set up the Microphone from the speaker?
I was planning on setting the tablet on a TV tray out at the 30'ish distance but I started thinking that was just an assumption and might not be the correct location.

I usually put it out about 10 feet or so when I'm setting the EQ outside. Don't want to get too far out and have more reflections off of whatever is in the environment. That will give you a baseline. Then you'll want to EQ the system to the room once you take it inside. That's easier with the EQ on whatever device you are using for playback.