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Have you swapped boards with the other cabinet to verify the problem follows the crossover?

I have not swapped Crossover Boards yet, I will try again your instructions Grant, I just have to leave for a couple of hours and I will do it when I get back at 9 pm. Thanks

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 3:10 pm Have you swapped boards with the other cabinet to verify the problem follows the crossover?

That should have been the first test. If you have two of something - insert the working one in place of the non-working one.

If it works, you know it's the crossover.

If it doesn't work, then put the other board in the "working" cab. If it works, you know it's the driver.

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:09 pm If it doesn't work, then put the other board in the "working" cab. If it works, you know it's the driver.

Or a faulty/incorrect connection somewhere other than the crossover circuit. Poor crimp somewhere perhaps.

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:27 pm

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:09 pm If it doesn't work, then put the other board in the "working" cab. If it works, you know it's the driver.

Or a faulty/incorrect connection somewhere other than the crossover circuit. Poor crimp somewhere perhaps.

Yeah, I'm not a fan of the crimp connectors. I'll use them only on the lead to the driver and only if it has a really good connection. Everything else get twisted and soldered.

Throughout this whole thread, I've wondered whether there is a good connection there every time I see those. It's easy to get the wire too far in the connector and you end up crimping down on the insulation instead of the copper.....also use the crimper on your wirestripper instead of needle nose pliers.

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:51 pm

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:27 pm

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:09 pm If it doesn't work, then put the other board in the "working" cab. If it works, you know it's the driver.

Or a faulty/incorrect connection somewhere other than the crossover circuit. Poor crimp somewhere perhaps.

Yeah, I'm not a fan of the crimp connectors. I'll use them only on the lead to the driver and only if it has a really good connection. Everything else get twisted and soldered.

Throughout this whole thread, I've wondered whether there is a good connection there every time I see those. It's easy to get the wire too far in the connector and you end up crimping down on the insulation instead of the copper.....also use the crimper on your wirestripper instead of needle nose pliers.

I love the non-insulated crimp connectors and use them wherever I can, with or without added solder. However, I share your opinion on the insulated connectors and think it's reasonable to suspect an issue there and worth looking into. It's not super common, but it happens.

A couple years back I switched to using dedicated crimp pliers for insulated connectors. I highly recommend them. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LOVEGS

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:57 pm
I love the non-insulated crimp connectors and use them wherever I can

I was talking about crimping down on the insulation of the wire inside the connector. I like the crimping tool.

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 6:10 pm

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 5:57 pm
I love the non-insulated crimp connectors and use them wherever I can

I was talking about crimping down on the insulation of the wire inside the connector. I like the crimping tool.

Understood, and I completely agree

Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 2:47 pm It just seems highly unusual that two faulty components ended up on 1 board.

I want you to try 2 things.
Disconnect the mid board from the 3 way thingy, and hook the woofer board to that lug, see if that works.

Undo the screw on the + "in" side of the woofer board and show a nice, close, in focus, pic of this end of the inductor.

Yes I got bass and woofer is moving along nice sound loud too. It works Yeehaaa! I hook it on the mid pin. Planning on redoing all 3 way thingy terminal waiting for UPS.

Just twist all three wires together, solder 'em and slip some heat shrink over 'em. Nobody will ever see 'em again.

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:06 pm Just twist all three wires together, solder 'em and slip some heat shrink over 'em. Nobody will ever see 'em again.

I agree with Bruce, twist all together then solder and heatshrink.

Yay, you found the problem. Well done, it's not easy when you are trying to work it out based on something some dude half way around the world is trying to tell you to do via the internet.

Take some more of that lacquer off that inductor lead under the screw. There's only just enough bare wire there to make contact. Sandpaper will do the job.
Reassemble everything on the woofer board, check to see if it's all still working...

Ok Grant will do thanks for all the help! Another week with paint and finishing I will put out a video, thanks guys!

That Omni 12 TB sounds amazing clear highs and mids, but I used a 75 watt small EV7100 amp the bass was so so, then I connected a Crest 7200 amp and wooooW, the bass came out with authority. for a pair is enough to fill a 200-250 dj wedding venues. No eq yet I have to still connect my DBX 231 with AFS. I have to do a video just to show you guys.