NEW BUILD - Omni 15 Tall Boy in New Zealand

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Grey Owl · #106 Post by **Grey Owl** » Thu Aug 27, 2020 1:06 am

Gidday All
Today I've wired up & installed the tweeter, LPad & High Pass crossover.
Quite a fiddley task coz I got short arms and trying to wrap me arms around the cab at the same time as scewing the P-Pad in; almost a half inch short in reach must have been hilarious to watch!!!
I was NOT a happy camper there for a while.
Luckily, my accountant middle daughter called in after work for a wine with "her who must be obeyed" and grabbed my power drill and promptly drove in the 4 screws without asking me first.

The wimmin in my family have all been raised to be very independent & capable so I really had no argument to give. Her response: "I used a rattle-gun in Norway and Denmark for two years assembling grain silo's Dad - don't tell me how to use a drill"!!

Anyway, I'm asking for confimation how to correctly gang wire my 4 way Speakon & T/S input panel please so I have all options covered. I have little plastic blanking jack plugs from Leland for the T/S's when I'm only using the N/4's.
Photo's attached.

Firstly, I'm thunkng:
a. Looking at the full rear pic, Neutrik Left is just paralled from +1 sideways over to +1 on Neutrik Right.
b. Then, Ntk -1 Left goes over to -1 Right; so that's them both done then.
b. Then, and this is the part that I'm not 100% on. Left Each Neutrik is paralled down +1 to Tip and -1 to -1 for the sleeve. On the T/S, which terminal is which?? I can't see any marks.

Would someone please confirm or deny or correct me.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers :feedback:

Grant Bunter · #107 Post by **Grant Bunter** » Thu Aug 27, 2020 4:29 am

Tip on the TS is "hot" or +, in other words the lug nearest you in the pic(s) when looking from the back...

Tom Smit · #108 Post by **Tom Smit** » Thu Aug 27, 2020 11:16 pm

When you grab a 1/4" plug, the end nub is the tip, and the long part/shaft is the sleeve. Now, when you look at the connector, you can imagine that the tip goes all the way in, which would mean that the end of the connector is for the tip. As Grant pointed out, the Tip is +ve, which makes the sleeve -ve.

Seth · #109 Post by **Seth** » Thu Aug 27, 2020 11:30 pm

Grey Owl · #110 Post by **Grey Owl** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 1:32 am

Thanks muchly guys

Nearly melted one of the Jack plugs; didn't want to be soldered.

Need to test it buy a replacement!!

Seth · #111 Post by **Seth** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 1:56 am

For soldering items with more mass than a bit of fine stranded wire, I find that a bit of molten solder on the tip of the iron (a drop just small enough to not drip off) helps transfer heat way better than holding the iron tip to a piece and waiting for the solder to flow. Get a drip on the tip, wait a few for it to come up to temp (the drip) then put it on the tab with the pre-flux'd wire, once it flows remove the heat... or just use crimp connectors. Nothing wrong with them IMO.

Soldering 12 gauge wire with my soldering iron was a PITA... even with the above technique. I bought a 100w iron after that. Haven't had to use it yet. Not sure what my usual iron wattage is, but it was just barely enough when soldering the 12 gauge stuff. Had to wet it out and still leave the heat on for quite some time to get the solder to flow. Was definitely close to melting some stuff.

Grey Owl · #112 Post by **Grey Owl** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:04 am

Noted with thanks

Grey Owl · #113 Post by **Grey Owl** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:05 am

Noted with thanks

Now you tell me

Seth · #114 Post by **Seth** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:11 am

Live and learn. We've all been there. You'll get it and be up and running in no time

Grey Owl · #115 Post by **Grey Owl** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:53 am

Cheers Seth.
A thought popped into my head today that I had not considered before.
I trust my cab will work as planned considering the time, advice and general effort exerted.
Finals nerves I suppose!!

Grant Bunter · #116 Post by **Grant Bunter** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 3:50 am

Grey Owl wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:53 am Cheers Seth.
A thought popped into my head today that I had not considered before.
I trust my cab will work as planned considering the time, advice and general effort exerted.
Finals nerves I suppose!!

You've done "most" of the hard work.
When everything is stitched up you need to check drivers for leaks, and each driver is working.
That means your drivers are where they are meant to be, and your filters are working. Fingers crossed there's no hiccups there.

After that, you'll just have an amazingly huge grin for days every time you power that baby up. And you'll want to do that.
You're going to hear things you never heard before. You might need to work on your EQ and technique a bit.
You won't believe what you have succeeded in doing...

Bruce Weldy · #117 Post by **Bruce Weldy** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 4:18 am

Grey Owl wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:05 am Noted with thanks
Now you tell me

Always tin the tab and the wire before soldering. That means apply solder to both the wire and tab, then with a little dab of solder on the iron, put the two together and heat. Now you are just letting the existing solder flow together and it doesn't require keeping the heat on for very long at all.

Seth · #118 Post by **Seth** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:35 am

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 4:18 am Always tin the tab and the wire before soldering.

Forgot to mention that... Tinning definitely helps in making a nice clean solder joint

Seth · #119 Post by **Seth** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:38 pm

Grey Owl wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:53 am Cheers Seth.
A thought popped into my head today that I had not considered before.
I trust my cab will work as planned considering the time, advice and general effort exerted.
Finals nerves I suppose!!

I had a similar experience when buttoning up the T39 I built... then it had a leak. At first I didn't want to deal with it. In my mind I felt as though I did everything right and went through a little bit of denial about the leak. It took a bit of purposeful perseverance to push myself to investigate the problem. It was way bigger in my mind than the actual effort it took to find and fix the problem. Found the issue, smeared some adhesive on the offending area and was in business the following day.

Point is, I get it, about the nerves while coming down the home stretch and hoping (expecting, really) for a great result and fearing a poor result after all the time and effort spent. I hope you get the results you're hoping for without any hiccups. But, if you do have some, just keep on and push a little more. It's gonna be a great feeling when it's all done!

Grey Owl · #120 Post by **Grey Owl** » Fri Aug 28, 2020 3:49 pm

Pics now attached of crossovers installed, L-Pad & Tweeter screwed in.
Saturday morning here - sun's up although cool.
Out and about today methinks!
Cheers