Stacking OT12 and T39

[lalexb]

What kind of corners would be suitable to stack a OT12 on a T39, is there a special trick to play to get them stacked perfectly?

I initially put those basic interlocking corners on the OT:
,
but because the T39 is a couple of inches deeper than the OT12, once the front ones are interlocked, the rear ones can't really be aligned properly.

I then replaced the front top ones on the T39 and the front bottom ones on the OT with those ones:

and it's allowing me to adjust a bit better the alignment until the rear ones are in place.

Ideally I'd have to fit both cabs with the later ones, but I only have one set of those and the hole patterns aren't the same, which means some screw holes to fill ... For consistency in the look (for what it matters), it would also be good to not have to mix different types of corners on a cab.

It's no big deal, but I'd be open to suggestions, or happy to find out what others have used when using this combo as a bass rig (the only legit case of stacking a top on a sub).

[Israel]

Id cut the roundness of one of the interlock corners (perhaps two one for each side duhh) and place it in line with the one on the back of the top... even that you should use a strap to secure them

[David Carter]

What I would do is put 4 of these on the bottom of the OT12 so that the plastic corners never even touch. If you worried about the OT12 getting bumped, you could always rout out small recesses (anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" deep) on the top of the T39 for the feet to fit into.

[WB]

What I would do is put 4 of these on the bottom of the OT12 so that the plastic corners never even touch. If you worried about the OT12 getting bumped, you could always rout out small recesses (anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" deep) on the top of the T39 for the feet to fit into.

This is the approach I like to use. I don't use a router though. I drill a 1" hole (for 1" diameter rubber feet) and then put a piece of ply on the inside of the cab for backing. The hole depth then ends up being the thickness of the wood (usually 3/8" or 1/2").

Another (similar) approach I've used is to use a 1/4"-20 Socket Cap bolt on the lower cabinet and use the head of the bolt as an alignment pin for the rubber feet on the upper box to sit on. I used this on my latest sub and DR.

Close up with boxes in position.

Close up with top box offset so you can see the bolt.

I'm not a big fan of interlocking corners anymore, and have stopped using them altogether. I kinda like the looks of Duratexed cabs without plastic corners.

[AntonZ]

That sure is a fast way to build. Aren't you afraid though that the bolt head damages other cabs in transport and handling? That would be a reason to do as Dave suggested instead.

[WB]

Aren't you afraid though that the bolt head damages other cabs in transport and handling?

The only other cab is the DR250, which I place beside it, not on top for transport. Doesn't seem to be a problem.