
....and this was the result of not checking it for two days of solid work.
The piece that hit my arm was only 3" wide and 12" long
Take heed!

+1000. Kickback can't happen when you're cutting with a panel jig on large pieces or a hold down on small ones.LelandCrooks wrote:Ouch.
All you guys doing lots of this need these:
http://www.microjig.com/
There is no cut under 7 or 8 inches wide in my shop done without it. It makes possible cuts that cannot be done safely without it. It takes an extra 30 seconds to a minute to set it, depending on the cut. Better it gets cut than my fingers. I became a dealer a while back, and have never bought any to sell. After seeing this, I'm going to put them in stock after the first of the year.
Check your fences also. I bought one of these on sale a couple of weeks ago. http://www.in-lineindustries.com/alineit.basic.html
If your fence tails towards the blade you're in kickback danger. Upon measuring my fence was off about .020, my blade runout was tailing .005 the other way. Those are teeny amounts, but after I adjusted for them, the difference was apparent. The finish of the cut became much smoother. According the manual, either set the fence perfectly parallel, or tail the fence away from the blade 2 or 3 thousandths for the safest cut. Minimizes the possibility of kickback.
Ever since I ripped open a fingernail, saw safety is priority #1. Kick back is the the most common injury, and the hardest to anticipate, even for experienced users.
Every tool demands respect. I have a nice phillips screwdriver shaped scar at the base of my left index finger to prove it.
No, I was cutting again about 5 mins after the pic was taken.Scott Brochu wrote:Are you going to take the rest of the day off?![]()
Very wise advice. My gate tails out by about 1mm over the whole length too BUT that cut I was doing was at 45degrees on 1/4" ply so that's about 3 times the surface area of a normal 90 degree cut - lots of friction.LelandCrooks wrote:If your fence tails towards the blade you're in kickback danger. Upon measuring my fence was off about .020, my blade runout was tailing .005 the other way. Those are teeny amounts, but after I adjusted for them, the difference was apparent. The finish of the cut became much smoother. According the manual, either set the fence perfectly parallel, or tail the fence away from the blade 2 or 3 thousandths for the safest cut. Minimizes the possibility of kickback.
I'm about to order another set of DR280 hardware ( Drivers will go through the appropriate buying channels of course ) so I should get one from you I guess.LelandCrooks wrote:Took me right to it. http://www.microjig.com/
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