Cutting out the speaker access panel

[taiguy]

Alright, so I've started construction on a pair of Tuba 30s. I'm not really clear on the best way to cut out the speaker access panel and consequently, the baffle. What I did was use a jigsaw to cut out the inner outline. Unfortunately, my jigsaw skills are not optimal and I've definitely got a few curves and shallow spots. I was planning on using it as a negative to trace out a positive on another board and then simply cut that one out. There has to be a better/smarter/more efficient way to do this, because using this method it's going to be tough to get things airtight. Anyone care to share some wisdom in this?

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Use a circular saw with either a sled or guideboard for cutting straight lines, they turn out perfect every time. In theory you can use a jigsaw with a sled or guideboard, but it's very slow going.

[taiguy]

I use a circular saw with a sled to get pretty accurate straight cuts, when cutting extra material off, in this case the access panels. My real problem is the actual cut out. I can fit the access panel/baffle to the rough cutout simply by trial and error trimming (I plan on using a little wood filler to try and level the cutout some). The actual cutout in the side panel I can't use a circular saw since it's an inside cut (or can I?). Right now I'm drilling holes and then using a jigsaw to cut the actual hole.

[telecast]

Use a plunge cut with the circular saw.

Practice first!

Set the front of the saw foot on the material and lift the gaurd all the way up to expose the blade. With the blade lined up on the mark, pull the trigger and slowly introduce the saw to the wood, eventually pushing all the way through the material.

Use the plunge for the straight edges and finish up with a jigsaw on the corners.

Again, practice first. Lay out some lines on scrap wood and give it a go.

Just make darn sure the saw foot is on the wood before you let the blade touch, or the saw could take off on you.

[taiguy]

when making a plunge cut, can I move the saw once it's in? or do I have to take it out and make another plunge cut to extend the cut?

[LelandCrooks]

Use a guide board. Plunge the saw, make the cut just like you would normally. Be aware that you should not quite go to the end of the cut. Finish the corners with a jigwsaw. Otherwise you'll have kerf marks to fill.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Otherwise you'll have kerf marks to fill.

Even that's no big deal, since you'll be doing other filling anyway. If you've got a jigsaw to do that last 1/2" fine, but if you don't just fill it later.

[finn17]

I have had a RotoZip Rebel gathering dust in my garage for a while and at last it appears to have come into it's own

[sddj]

Been using a RotoZip for the past couple years... almost has made a jigsaw a non-entity when building projects. It does take a little getting use to however... but a great tool.

Just make sure you have plenty of bits for the project at hand. I notice over time the bit may slide, putting more pressure, and then eventually, "snap".

[telecast]

The bits suck in anything over 1/4" material.

Try using the rotozip with a 1/4" straight router bit. They work very well if you have the material to spare.

[LelandCrooks]

Ok what's the trick to these things? I tried mine once and tossed in the corner. It worked great for cutting sheetrock. Another guideboard made for it?

[sddj]

I've learned when I cut, to "pull" the unit towards me... not sideways or away from me. I don't use a guide at all. Just follow the lines. I think it's great for odd cuts and stuff, better than a jigsaw.

I also use the RotoZip with a 1/4" round router bit for rounding the edges of all my speaker cabs. Works better than a router for this particular purpose.

[finn17]

I don't know if there is a trick to using them, but it is important to use the right bit for the material you are cutting...and the right speed. Mine works a treat, I just haven't had much need to cut holes in things recently

[Rick Auricchio]

Instead of a RotoZip, I bought a Porter-Cable laminate trimmer several years ago. It's like a cross between the RotoZip and a small router.

After the first use for which I bought it, it sat idle. But I just used it to do many of the cuts on the Omni15 TB.

Only broke one RotoZip wood bit by moving too quickly after a couple of cuts. I slowed down and all was good.

I used the tool to cut the access panel. On my cab, the fixed back is U-shaped, running full-width at the top and bottom to accommodate a handle and casters. I made the three cuts, knowing that the loss of a slightly wider kerf was fine for the access panel, which needs the slack.

I used it for the woofer and mid baffle holes, midhorn hole (I went without the bevel), caster and handle holes. It's nice to be able to drill the pilot hole, then set it down and start cutting.

It was easy to clamp a guide board for the longer cuts.