dewalt track saw

[brodave2]

never used one, but it looks like a neat rig

http://revver.com/video/1340629/track-s ... g-plywood/

a little pricey!

http://www.toolsandmachinery.com/dewalt ... 19922.html

[Harley]

never used one, but it looks like a neat rig...a little pricey!

It's more competitive than the Festool one.

I wonder how much that would be to ship here to NZ in terms of freight......

[LelandCrooks]

I came within a whisker of buying one when they first came out. Glad I didn't, for the money you can buy a respectable table saw.

There are some aftermarket guide boards that will pretty much accomplish the same thing. http://www.ptreeusa.com/edge_clamps.htm#552

Scroll down for the universal tool plate. All you'll lose I think is the spring loaded plunge capability from the dewalt.

[mpm32]

Those guide boards look good, although the saw hangs far way from the track. Cutting small pieces would be difficult without the addition width to hold the track.

So that is another consideration.

I always had plans to get a nice Delta or Powermatic cabinet saw. But every time I look at my shop space I wonder where I would put it. I have room but I would loose a lot of space.

[BassDaddy]

There's a review here:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/81-dewalt-tracksaw-review/

I get by with a simple straight edge like this:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none
Not nearly as elegant as the option that LelandCrooks posted, but a lot cheaper. If I used mine more often, I'd probably upgrade to the something like he posted. The one I have is a bit tedious to set up, but does help me cut straight lines.

[mpm32]

I have two of those straight edges. I do notice sometimes that when cutting a long run when you press the saw base tight against the straight edge the straight edge will bow resulting in a cut like this (

Also sometimes the saw will wander away from the straight edge. I've built many things this way using a straight edge but I think the Dewalt option will save me time and material in the long run.

[jswingchun]

Looks like Makita is coming out with one too

http://www.tools-plus.com/makita-sp6000k.html

$380

[mpm32]

Cool, the competition is good - for us.

I do like to looks of the Dewalt so far and their clamps are quick grip type clamps and the Makita looks like screw clamps.

[AntonZ]

I think Festool had this patented. Last year or so the patent expired. Now others are coming with similar guided circular saws. We may see cheaper brands make this too in the not too distant future.

[bgavin]

Glad I didn't, for the money you can buy a respectable table saw.

I'm hunting about for a new table saw.

What is considered a respectable saw these days?
Mine is a 10" Craftsman, cast iron top, grooved for the sliding angle guide, Bill's panel jig, and various jigs of my own.
It is also rusted up to the point where it is frozen in place.

[Tom Smit]

Hey Bruce, you might try hitting a large punch (at least almost as wide as the track) with a hammer up and down the length of the track. Also forward and back, even if it is fractions at a time. The hitting reduces the rust to dust which open up a gap allowing for fore and aft movement.
This method works, it just takes time and needs many general hits all over, ie, some here, some there.

[Tom Smit]

OK. I just read your other post. Glad you got that resolved.

[Mike Roam]

I just got the Makita SP6000K track saw and I realy like it. Got it for about $370 with the 55" guide track and it is really well made. I like the fact that you can cut bevels to 47 degrees as well. Great for the angles on the diffraction horn parts!

http://www.toolbarn.com/makita-sp6000k1.html

Mike

[kynetx]

There's a review here:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/81-dewalt-tracksaw-review/

I get by with a simple straight edge like this:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none
Not nearly as elegant as the option that LelandCrooks posted, but a lot cheaper. If I used mine more often, I'd probably upgrade to the something like he posted. The one I have is a bit tedious to set up, but does help me cut straight lines.

That page isn't loading, but I'm guessing you're using the two-piece aluminum extruded track that splices together with a bar that has 4 set screws.

I had an idea I think I'll try on my next build: Drill 2 or 3 1/8" holes per piece in the thick side and counter-sink them. Now you can drive in a couple of short screws to keep the straight edge from bowing If you use 3/8" screws you won't penetrate more than 1/4" into the wood. Either position the straight edge on the waste side or just patch the holes when you're done.

[LelandCrooks]

Mount the edge permanently to a square end on a piece of plywood. Make the cut. Now you have a permanent straight edge and don't have to adjust for saw offset. I have one 4ft, 5ft and 8ft long.

Haven't tried my new guide yet I bought to replace them.