myn's Tuba HT Build Thread

[myn]

My oval head Philips screws for the access panel cover came in today. Tomorrow I finally can begin the motion of progress by predrilling the holes for the access panel cover. From there a final blow out of the box internals to get out all of the saw dust and than it comes back inside for paint and Duratex.

How much spacing between each access panel screw is necessary?

[Radian]

Tomorrow I finally can begin the motion of progress by predrilling the holes for the access panel cover.

Myn, everyone has their pace in the shop...but OMG

I've given up reading this thread. See you again when you finally post a review with a completed cab. I'm sure Harley will have a trophy waiting for you at the end of this marathon.



....seriously though, build it once, build it right. You're in for a treat with that THT.

Cheers.

[myn]

[== 9/21/2009 ==]

After receiving the Oval head screws on Saturday, I predrilled the access panel holes on Sunday. These Oval heads appear exactly what I was looking for. I really like the countersunk flsuh look of them.

Tonight The wife and I brought the THT back inside. She was quite happy to get her parking spot back. Before bringing it in I did my best to get as much saw dust out of the labyrinth as possible and also used a tact cloth to get the remaining dust off. Tomorrow begins the black latex primer coat .

[maxmercy]

WHAT???!!!!!

No test of the driver in the box before finishing? Wow, you have the patience of a saint...

Seriously, make sure you mask the areas where the final braces will go when you prime...you want wood-glue-wood bonds.


JSS

[myn]

[== 9/22/2009 ==]

Tonight I rolled on the Glidden flat black latex basecoat on 5 of the sides (top + 4 sides) using a 4" dense foam roller. I did make sure to mask off the wood in the mouth area where the final 2 braces will be put in tomorrow and Thursday.

I'm interested in some peoples opinions on the Duratex application. I've read at least 100 postings about the different techniques and applications. The common message I hear is put on a basecoat of latex paint before the Duratex. Some people only put on 1 more coat of Duratex after the base latex, some put on 2 coats (1 light, 1 heavy). Thoughts?

Also, Will there be any visible lines or inconsistencies in the Duratex application if I take the same approach as I am doing for the Latex basecoat, painting 5 sides (top and 4 sides) and going as low as I can on the sides but still leaving unpainted spots towards the bottom of the THT. Than the following day turning the box over painting the bottom + the non-painted spots on the sides that were missed from previous coat? Or is it best to complete an entire coat in 1 application?

[David Carter]

I just do one medium coat of Duratex after the latex.

Also, Will there be any visible lines or inconsistencies in the Duratex application if I take the same approach as I am doing for the Latex basecoat, painting 5 sides (top and 4 sides) and going as low as I can on the sides but still leaving unpainted spots towards the bottom of the THT. Than the following day turning the box over painting the bottom + the non-painted spots on the sides that were missed from previous coat? Or is it best to complete an entire coat in 1 application?

If you can do it in one coat, that's great, but I still haven't figured out how to make that work. What I do is raise the cab off the floor by setting it on 2x4's or cinder blocks and then I can paint all the way to the bottom edge on the sides. That way any seam will be right along the edges and nearly invisible.

[paul_ulrix]

looks good, but no bracing in the horn mounth ?

[slavedave]

On my T18 I used a couple of bits of 2" by 2" that were slightly narrower than the width of the cab. I rested the cab on the two blocks so that it was stable and the ends of each supporting block were away from the external edges of the cab. That way i could roll a coating on the top, roll down to the routed edge on all sides and then flip the cab upside down to do the bottom because the top had dried enough by then to do this. It was very quick to put on 3 layers of the Tuffcaot paint from Blue Aran this way.
First layer wasn't particularly thick but the next two I ladled it on! Stipple effect was very passable as something you would buy - in fact, several people thought that we had bought it when we used it at church the next Sunday.

[myn]

[== 9/23/2009 ==]

Thanks for the advice guys on raising it up off of the floor. I am going to see if I can find some blocks of wood or maybe buy a 6x4 and cut it down allowing it to be raised off the ground so I can paint underneath.

Tonight I installed 1 of the mouth braces. I'll do the other one tomorrow after the PL sets on the first one

[Scott Brochu]

I admire your attention to detail and taking your time.

[myn]

[== 9/25/2009 ==]

As planned, yesterday I installed and PL'd the final brace in the mouth area. This morning before work I filled the screw holes where the horn mouth braces were secured and tonight I painted the bottom half where the paint didn't go down all the way, the braces and the bottom of the THT with flat black latex paint.

Tomorrow (Saturday) begins the Duratex adventure. I'm a little nervous about how it's going to turn out. I am still wondering how I should apply it?

• 1 light coat with textured roller + 1 medium coat with textured roller?
• 1 light coat with dense foam roller + 1 medium coat with textured roller?
• Just 1 medium coat with textured roller?
• or how Arcy-Tech recommends: Heavy protective coat with textured roller followed by light/medium/heavy coat with a textured roller

Also, it mentions in the Duratex directions that it takes a few days for DuraTex to cure to a hard finish, 7 days for a full cure. If I am going todo the bottom of the THT, is it required to wait 3 days before flipping it or can I do it within 24 hours? My fear is that the flipping and moving onto the 4x4 wood will cause an indentation into the Duratex finish?

[LelandCrooks]

You can flip them in a couple of hours if you block them up carefully on a couple of narrow boards. After 24hrs just flip em.

[WB]

On a warm sunny day it dries so fast that one side dries while you're working on the other side. In your case, I would Duratex the side thats going to need to be dry first. Then do the horn insides and as many other sides as possible. When you've completed that, you can set the original side down because it'll be dry now, and then carry on. I find one coat of black latex for primer and two coat of Duratex is all you need. The two coats done one right after the other.

Two other tricks I've used:

1) If you're planning on installing rubber feet, located the locations and screw in long wood screws as stilts.

2) When you've got an opening in the box like you have, I clamp a piece of strong lumber or metal to the table and support the box by hanging it off the lumber/metal. The advantage here too is that you can spin the box to suit you.

[myn]

You can flip them in a couple of hours if you block them up carefully on a couple of narrow boards. After 24hrs just flip em.

I've waited this long, I can wait another 24 hours. So to confirm, there won't be any issues if I flip them after 24 hours onto say plastic covered foam floor mats. Will the Duratex get stuck to the plastic you think?




WB: nice idea on using the opening in the box and hanging it. I never thought about that.

I found a carpeted dolly with wheels that could allow me to prop it up so I can apply the Duratex to 5 sides while being able to reach the bottom edges. The only issue I see is it may move around a bit. This may actually be an advantage. I was going to goto Home Depot tomorrow and get some 4x4 lumber but this may work just as well.




Oh yeah, almost forgot. Duratex needs to be mixed up before usage right? I've been using a squirll cage paint mixer that you attach to a drill. Will that introduce to many bubbles?

[WB]

Oh yeah, almost forgot. Duratex needs to be mixed up before usage right?

No, it's too thick and pastey. Just use it straight out the pail. Just remember it dries very quick, so lay the lid back on the pail between helpings.