Recommend Router Template Bit and Follower

[bgavin]

I'd like somebody to recommend a bit and top follower, by part number if possible.

I want to make some templates to cut out hand holes in T48, OT12, etc.
I figure the template could be 3/4" BB, which I have way too much in stock.

Ideally, the bit would be an up-spiral type designed for cutting out holes.
And a roller top bearing.

My plunge router is a big Craftsman with 1/4" and 3/8" shank.

Sorry to sound like wanting spoon feeding, but I have no idea what to order...

[Harley]

I got one recentlt but chucked the packet away and can't remember the brand. It was from the US

It was a round plastic base that screwed on to your router bottom. There is also a steel guide the screws into the plate to act as your guide through which the bit protrudes.

The clever part was the brass centreing device. It was 1/4" shaft about 1" long and then it tapered out to be larger than the inside dia of the guide. You mount the device into your router like you would a router bit. Then you let the router pluge out ( with the base loosely screwed ) and then the guide self centres. You then tighten up the base...voila!

Don't make the mistake I did and try and screw it on with the router plastic plate as well. You must remove the router's plastic bottom plate so the new round base has a perfectly flat surface to bolt onto.

[djohnson573]

Ideally, the bit would be an up-spiral type designed for cutting out holes.
And a roller top bearing.

Bruce, I have never seen such an animal (doesn't mean they don't exisist though).
Any reason for going this route instead of using a template guide?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A0 ... oh_product
For cutting handle holes all the way through, I find the down spiral works best.

[LelandCrooks]

http://www.speakerhardware.com/port_han ... leTemp.php

http://www.speakerhardware.com/58_top_b ... l50103.php
If you add a 1/4 spacer to the template you can use:
http://www.speakerhardware.com/12_top_b ... 772590.php

Haven't seen an up spiral pattern bit, but you could add a bearing to one. They're interchangeable.

I took the pattern and made a new one from 3/4 bb. The mdf template is good for a couple of dozen cuts, but by then the bearing will wear a groove. Pretty marginal change, but the bb never wears out.

[Scott Brochu]

Ideally, the bit would be an up-spiral type designed for cutting out holes.
And a roller top bearing.

Bruce, I have never seen such an animal (doesn't mean they don't exisist though).
Any reason for going this route instead of using a template guide?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A0 ... oh_product
For cutting handle holes all the way through, I find the down spiral works best.

Thats what I have for top following templates. But you have to take into consideration the brass guide thickness.

[SoundInMotionDJ]

It was a round plastic base that screwed on to your router bottom. There is also a steel guide the screws into the plate to act as your guide through which the bit protrudes.

I use this set from Porter Cable. They fit the "standard" PC opening on one of the bottom plates. And although I have a set, 99.44% of the time I use the 1/2" guide with a 1/4" bit. That leaves me 1/8" over the pattern.

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-4200 ... B0000222V1
There are some other choices:
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywor ... o4uvlrxj_b

--Stan Graves

[bgavin]

I own an up spiral for use with my Jasper jig.
I make baffle hole cutouts in 3 passes, so the up-spiral continues to remove material from the cut during each pass.
I could see a down spiral if one is making a one-pass cut, where the bit protrudes below the work all time.
Cutting 1/2" BB in a single pass gives me the impression of being very hard on the bit... speaking from ignorance, here.

I don't want to get into a situation where I have to disassemble the router bottom plate, install some adapter guide, and so forth.
I figured a bit with a top bearing is what I need, but I don't know for sure.
3/8" shank would be even better, to avoid the leverage failure across a long span.

I'll be sure to make the templates from 3/4" BB for durability.

[SoundInMotionDJ]

I don't want to get into a situation where I have to disassemble the router bottom plate, install some adapter guide, and so forth.

Installing the guide bushing adds less than a minute to the process of installing and setting depth on the bit. It is really not even something I think about at this point. I have a bottom plate that has the 1/2" guide installed almost year round. I have another bottom plate to use with any round over bits larger than 3/8" - so I am already changing bottom plates in the process of building a cabinet. This does not count the times that I move the router motor from the table to the plunge base. There are enough changes that are a pain...installing the guide rounds to zero.

I use a 1/4" bit with the guide. The 1/4" up/down cut spiral bits are about 1/4-1/3 the price of a top bearing bit. Removing just 1/4" width of material means that 1/2" ply is like butter. I cut in a single pass without fear.

Faced with Oak or Walnut or Cherry or any other solid hardwood, multiple passes are required. But even for BB, 1/2" is no problem at all...3/4" might need a second pass.

--Stan Graves

[bgavin]

Thanks for all the good advice.
Post pix of your setup, if you can please.
I'm a computer whiz, not a wood smith, hence the dumb questions.

It appears a fixed bushing, non-turning, would work well with a template.
The intent is to not burn the template.
The next best thing is a roller bearing and hardwood template, i.e. BB.

I just don't understand where the non-turning bushing is installed. Dumb, dumb.

[Harley]

I don't want to get into a situation where I have to disassemble the router bottom plate, install some adapter guide, and so forth.

I have a Ryobi router dedicated to that guide bit, and another Ryobi dedicated to the Jasper.

[bgavin]

That is because you are special...

I have to put my router back in the box, and put it away at the end of the day.
No dedicated stuff for me until I get a dedicated place to work.