Router newbie

[chrapladm]

I am wanting to build the SLA with JVC 3x5's. I was thinking that I want to mount the woofers in the inside of the box instead of the outside.

I like the flush look of the woofer being the only thing exposed instead of seeing a big chunk of square metal. I was thinking that I would need to some how cut out a "channel," for the 3x5's to sit in about a 1/4" less. I know I could get a plunge router and set the depth to 1/4" but how do I cut out that big or a square?

I am sorry if this sounds confusing. I am wanting to make a channel for all nine 3x5's to go in. The channel will be 1/4" shallower than the rest of the wood. I basically want to do the same thing your supposed to do with the tweeters but to the 3x5's. But I dont know how to do this with the router. And can I get a nice straight edge in the corners with the router?

In other words when making a square will it have rounded corners or can I make it perfectly square?

Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question but I have never really used a router before. I have always used a jig saw for circles but now I am going to buy a router instead. (I have no other tools right now anyways)

Oh and one last thing what is an alternative to using PL pro?

There is liquid nails here at the local "Home Depot," But I am not sure what I should be looking for. Any help will be much appreciated.

[Sydney]

I was thinking that I would need to some how cut out a "channel," for the 3x5's to sit in about a 1/4" less.

Not the router master here;
but make a pattern template, and use a pattern following cutter bit.

[BrentEvans]

Oh and one last thing what is an alternative to using PL pro?

There is liquid nails here at the local "Home Depot," But I am not sure what I should be looking for. Any help will be much appreciated.

Leland sells it in two tube sizes:

http://www.speakerhardware.com/categories.php?cat=10

[chrapladm]

Maybe I should make a "frame," template and then use the router guide thing like you were saying sydney. But that would have to be a pretty thing or wide frame so there is ample surface area for the router to be supported.

I will wait to hear what others have to say about the router.

Leland suggested I look for something here in Australia. I WOULD rather use what everyone else is using because then I wont have to think any more than I have to about using another product, but who knows.

Maybe it was a customs thing or maybe it was in regards to saving me some shipping. I might just try and order the PL pro from Leland anyways and see what he has to say.

[BrentEvans]

Didn't realize you were down under. Maybe Harley will see this and chime in...

[bitSmasher]

Leland suggested I look for something here in Australia

Some products discussed here.

[Sydney]

In other words when making a square will it have rounded corners or can I make it perfectly square?

As I have been a big advocate of flush mounting these are some of the things I tried...
After removing the bulk with a router I have finished the square corner with careful use of chisels and exacto knife.
On wood that is prone to chipping I have masking taped the cut line.
Also I found 1/4 inch plywood panels ( available w hardwood veneers ) trace the driver frame on it and scroll/jig saw cut this as a faceplate over the cab face. The face plate is fairly easy to cut

[chrapladm]

what kind of bit do I need to to the bulk of the clearing for the "channel," if you will?


I have know idea what bits I need for this so that is why I am asking.

[Sydney]

Where are the Master Woodworkers when you need them...
Anyway, here goes,
A pattern following bit has a ball bearing roller either above the cutters or below.
Depending on what has to be done.
With a template placed on top of material; the top bearing bit rolls on the template surface and cuts material below.
The reverse for a bottom bearing ( guide surface is below material is cut above )


Preview this book:
The New Router Handbook By Patrick Spielman
page 10 ( Illustration 1.7 )
See an example of a pattern template.

I have also use a mini router (Dremel or Mini Zip) w a router base to get into tight places.

As Patrick points out in this book ( see the chapter on Marquetry Veneer Inlay page 180)
"The router can't cut square inside corners , but it can assist in cutting all the excess material in the recess with the exception of the inside corners"

If you can see a video of all this it is a lot clearer of the methods.
Hope this helps
Syd

[LelandCrooks]

I'm not a master, but you're doing a pretty good job Sydney. Use a pattern bit like the pic, clamp or screw a guide board where you want the cut to go, be sure to mark the stop points. Go slow and watch, you will be able to stop right at the stop points.

Alternatively, if you don't have a top bearing bit, just a standard "channel" bit, measure from the edge of the bit to the edge of the router plate, screw or clamp a board on your baffle that distance away, plus the amount of cut. Like using a sawboard for a circular saw. The top bearing bit is easier, less chance for a mistake. Finish the corners with a chisel.

Make the cutout for the drivers first, then lay the drivers in the cutout to get precise markings for your line on the flush cut.

[IanChad]

When using a template and a bearing guided router bit, if it's possible to plan the work so that you can use a bottom bearing bit (with the template underneath) rather than a top bearing bit (with the template on top) then i would do so.
If your router tips for any reason then with a top bearing bit you can cut into the workpiece but with a bottom bearing, whichever way you tip, the cutting edges move away from it.

Best of luck

[chrapladm]

I think I am going to have to buy the jig saw also. I have no idea how I will be cutting 3x5 holes without one.

Make the cutout for the drivers first, then lay the drivers in the cutout to get precise markings for your line on the flush cut.

I am confused by this.....Would this be done if I was going to put the channel on the front of the baffle?

I will be putting the channel on the inside of the cab. Rear of baffle. I dont know if cutting the 3x5 holes first will make it harder for me or not to do the channel. And I think if I have a bearing guide it will be a top mounted one. The bottom mounted I dont know how that would work for someone trying to cut down to a certain depth.

[IanChad]

I think if I have a bearing guide it will be a top mounted one. The bottom mounted I dont know how that would work for someone trying to cut down to a certain depth.

Your absolutely right about that. If you plan to use a router with a template to finish the speaker holes in the baffle then that is where my own preference is for a bottom bearing bit. While its not totally idiot proof it is more difficult to make mistakes.

[LelandCrooks]

If you're going to rear mount why bother with the channel?

[chrapladm]

I love the look of the recessed TLAH's.
http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&id=3 ... myphotos=1

And now I have seen a few others using the 3x5 and I feel they would look better if the were installed from behind or in the rear of the baffle. BUt that being said I dont want a 3/4" chunk wood to deter away from the "flush," look of the rear mount. So I was thinking that if I make a channel for them to sit closer to the face (1/4" maybe) then they would look alot better. This is of corse just my opinion.

I would mount them on the front of the baffle but I dont like seeing the big chunk of metal they have to mount them. Sure I could make a speaker grille but I would still know they are there and when I take the cover off I would see them. It is alot of extra work just to make it the way I want them but thats just me. I can never make anything simple.

I was thinking I will almost do the same thing that I need to do with the tweeters(glue to seal them and all) and thats why I thought of the channel. I wish I could put a bit of a round over on the front baffle speaker holes like the tweeters but I dont want to weaken the baffle or mess up.

So in a nutshell that is why I want to mount the speakers on the inside.