Gauss and the DR200s

[Gauss]

Hi, so I'm not new to reading and responding, but I'm new to posting about my projects. I'm a bass player who is in the process of becoming a DJ. I've got a T39 that's all but finished. It's a dual-purpose bass amp extension cabinet and PA sub. I was the assistant to the master on this project, but things go s l o w finding time for him to work with me. So I've just started a pair of DR200s and will be working alone for the most part.

I'm not a skilled woodworker, but I have a couple at my disposal. For the DR200, I'm using my neighbor's tablesaw, circular saw, drill, router and a mitre box. I know there are times when I'll need to get help and more tools, but I figured if I take my time and think it through I can handle this project. I could hardly believe it when I made the panel jig and my cuts came out perfectly square. That was when I really believed that I could do this.

So now, here's my big question. I'm ready to make the throat horn sides, but I don't know if the dimensions listed are for the inside (the larger side) or outside. I know seven and nine degrees are small angles, but I don't want to guess and find out later that it was the other.

Also, how is everyone else making the seven degree cuts? My plan is to make a circular saw sled and run it at seven degrees, then once all the throat horn sides are done, use it as the three degree sled. Do you veterans just run it through the table saw by hand, since the trapezoid shape makes it impossible to use the fence.

And one more, do you guys use the table saw on an angle with your panel jig? I don't want to lose the obvious cutting line by widening the slot, but the less I have to use the unsteady fence, the better.

[Brew]

I use the panel gig for the angle cuts also. Some use additional gigs for the larger angles. But I have never had a problem. I referenced panel placement on the crossbar, marking the angle when the blade passes thru. (A different depth of blade helps. 90,3,5,6,7, degrees etc.). Practice on scrap ply, and you'll get it

[SoundInMotionDJ]

Also, how is everyone else making the seven degree cuts? My plan is to make a circular saw sled and run it at seven degrees, then once all the throat horn sides are done, use it as the three degree sled. Do you veterans just run it through the table saw by hand, since the trapezoid shape makes it impossible to use the fence.

I start with a rectangular blank for the sides. I cut the top & bottom @ 7 deg using the fence. I mark the layout for the angles and cut them @ 90 deg using the panel jig.

The bevel that should be on the angled part of the sides is easy enough to fill in with PL. I do not worry about making that particular bevel.

And one more, do you guys use the table saw on an angle with your panel jig? I don't want to lose the obvious cutting line by widening the slot, but the less I have to use the unsteady fence, the better.

Nope. I keep the blade @ 90 deg with the panel jig. The line will widen with use anyway. You can plan to replace the center piece with a blank as required...but I just rebuild the whole sled every 6 to 9 months anyway.

--Stan Graves

[Dave Non-Zero]

just rebuild the whole sled every 6 to 9 months anyway.

--Stan Graves

+1

I sooooo need to rebuild my panel jig. I just made a small one to cut piezos and its such a joy to use compared to my big one that is reeeally beaten up now.

[Gauss]

The bevel that should be on the angled part of the sides is easy enough to fill in with PL. I do not worry about making that particular bevel.
--Stan Graves

Wow, that's so simple. I think that trick takes the DR200s down one degree of difficulty. Thanks. And that would mean that the measurements are for the smaller side, the outside.

I would still like to hear how others achieve this difficult carpentry.

[LelandCrooks]

2 jigs. 1 for square, 1 for angles. I line up any compound cut by eye on the line with a straight edge on the blade and the line on the part, then cut. Takes practice with the angle jig to compensate.

[Rick Lee]

So now, here's my big question. I'm ready to make the throat horn sides, but I don't know if the dimensions listed are for the inside (the larger side) or outside. I know seven and nine degrees are small angles, but I don't want to guess and find out later that it was the other.

I just finished that assembly yesterday and it is a little tricky. The good thing is if you mess up one like I did you're not wasting much wood. Go ahead and cut one, lay it out on the horn support and see if you have the angle right. You have to read the plans very carefully but all the explanations are in there. I have dialup internet so I've never downloaded Sketchup which probably would make it easier. It helps when I visualize how the horn unfolds. Especially when you cut the angles on the baffle!

[DJPhatman]

I have dialup internet so I've never downloaded Sketchup which probably would make it easier.

Pay a visit to your local library. Bring a small USB jump drive, and download/save Sketchup onto the jump drive. Then it's just install it to your computer!

[Rick Lee]

Well, actually I'm not telling the whole truth... I downloaded Sketchup last fall and it took forever, saved it to a CD and now I have no idea where the CD is...
Yes, I've done the library thing many times and that is the logical way to do it, if one happens to be logical...
That said, I'm in the process of uploading our band's CD to Kunaki for online duplication and it REALLY is taking forever.
That said, our band is having lunch tomorrow with the president of a record label in Nashville, so all the effort to upload our CD may be moot because I think they'll want to re-record the stuff that we've done anyway...
That said, I'm not really into Sketchup because... well, because...we don't want to make this too easy, do we??? Real men don't need no stinkin' instructions, right?????
Yeah, that's right... where's that hammer...

[DJPhatman]

Yeah, that's right... where's that hammer...

Right here!

[Gauss]

I hit a snag. I was so excited about my progress. With my amateur background and slow advancement, I had finally finished the throat horn sides and supports, both at matching 9 degree angles, and glued, drilled, screwed them together. What an accomplishment, I was riding high . Unfortunately I missed the big picture because of focusing on the details, and the throat horn sides were attached splayed out instead of in. Whoops. Oh well, this time it will be faster, and I'll know what to do next. But wow, those are straight and perfect -- except for being glued on upside down and backwards.

Anyone see anything useful I can do with four "7"-shaped pieces? Maybe erect a trophy to short-sightedness?

[LelandCrooks]

My first DR throats many moons and revisions ago took three tries. Don't feel bad.

[Gauss]

Thanks. I'm definitely gaining woodworking skills in leaps and bounds. I managed to get back to where I was this afternoon. All that's left to do is glue, etc. I would've done that too, but my neighbor's drill was unavailable.


One shortcut that helped was clamping a piece of scrap to the pushbar. Then I slid one piece after another to it and they're all the same size. Less measuring, more consistency.

[gdougherty]

Thanks. I'm definitely gaining woodworking skills in leaps and bounds. I managed to get back to where I was this afternoon. All that's left to do is glue, etc. I would've done that too, but my neighbor's drill was unavailable.


One shortcut that helped was clamping a piece of scrap to the pushbar. Then I slid one piece after another to it and they're all the same size. Less measuring, more consistency.

That's a basic woodworking trick. Stop blocks are your best friend for repeatable cuts.

[Gauss]

Whew, got the drill and caught back up tonight. Not bad for a day's work. Here's a shot of two of my new throat sides and one of my old ones. I'm learning a lot from experience that I'm sure I've seen other people do or had given to me as advice. I had a lip on two of the sides and decided to unscrew and redo them while fresh instead of sanding them flush.