T rails

[mike james]

I did a search and came up with nothing. So does anyone have a source for T slot rails for table saws? I found the T track but not the T slot rail part.

Thanks Mike

[bgavin]

If you are building a sled, make them out of 1/2" BB or similar.
Glue to the sled using a straight edge.
Easy project.

[CoronaOperator]

+1

I've never seen a T-slot rail other than the lead in (first 1/2 inch) of a miter gauge, even then it is pointless. A full rail would bind so much that it would drive you crazy These sleds have to glide like butter in order to be functional. Use baltic ply, hardwood, or if you really want to be slick the pros use HDPE. So where do you source HDPE (high density polyethylene)? Well, your white plastic cutting board in the kitchen is made of it. Wallyworld or where ever sells them for cheap. It bends easy so it needs to be screwed (drilled and counter sunk so it doesn't expand and bind) every few inches or so to stay true. A dado will really keep it straight.

So what is that T-slot on your table saw really for then? Well, you use these



to make hold downs for featherboards, jigs, stop blocks, or anything that you want to tighten down and stay put for your cut like ..





LennyZ

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

If you need the rail to construct a sliding panel cutting jig order another miter gauge or two for the saw, and use the rails from them.

[mike james]

Yes it's for the sliding panel cutting jig. The T slot runs the whole way on both the saw and rail for the miter gauge on my saw. How would I go about cutting out a T rail out of hardwood, Baltic birch, or the high density polyethylene? A router bit?
Good one Bill, I never would have thought of the miter gauge. I think I would need 3 more miter gauges to make it work though. Hmmmm, I will check on the cost per each.

Thanks for the help guys, keep the ideas coming.
Mike

[Harley]

How would I go about cutting out a T rail out of hardwood, Baltic birch, or the high density polyethylene?

Quite simple really.

Make sure the gate and the saw blade on your table saw are absolutely parallel ( they should be at all times anyhow ) and adjust as necessary

You then trim a piece of ply down to just over the right width of he mitre slot on the saw bench( use pusher sticks to push in from the side and from the back )

The trim down by a gnat's whisker at a time until you it just slides without any wobble.

You may have to do the same to the height at as well.

When it's done, drop the saw blade below the bench level, place the piece in the slot with a dab of PL along it, then place your board on the bench with a bit of overlap of the saw blade cut line.

Use a brad nailer at an angle to nail the board onto the piece , the steel from the saw bench will turn the nail back up if it's too long.

Pull it out, wipe any PL out of the slot.

Wait for glue to dry, trim off any excess underneath with a box cutter, bring your saw blade up to cutting height, put the board on the table with the piece in the slot and then trim the board.

You'll then have a sliding board with a perfect trim line to line up your cuts.

If yo want a board that runs both side of the saw, make the one in Bill's list of plans.

Take your time, and be real careful cutting the slide piece.

[Ron K]

http://www.amazon.com/Peachtree-Woodwor ... B000KUZMNA

[CoronaOperator]

using a t shaped rail will make the sled a PITA to load and unload off the saw and it will bind like crazy. Just use the slot like the t part isn't there, regular rectangle rails. Then you can just throw the sled on and off the saw without having to line up the t rails everytime you want to use the sled. I've been using sleds for about 8 years and have made them both ways. I too wanted to use a t rail when I bought a new saw that had t slots. It wasn't worth the trouble to make the rails and it never glided as smooth as a regular rectangle rail does. It will bind at the beginning and at the end of the cut when it overhangs the saw. You will have to pull up at the begining and push down at the end in order for it to slide. I am constantly loading and unloading the sled and trying to line up the t part on 2 rails everytime just gets you frustrated. Moral of the story: regular rectangle rails for sliding, T-bolts for holding jigs down. If your dead set on t rails by all means use them, for me , once I learned that you can use the t slot just like a regular slot my frustration went away and I could get back to woodworking.

LennyZ

[Tom Smit]

Since I have purchased an old table saw for $25, it has 3/16"D X 5/8"W slots. I figured out that probably I can use a length of cold-rolled steel for the rail cutting them to about 40" long, drilling holes for 3/16" or #8 'studs' which I will weld in place. Before I do that, I will place the lengths (with holes drilled in) in the slots. place the plywood on the table and clamp the slides to the plywood. Then remove the whole business and drill through the plywood using the previously drilled holes as guides. On the top side, my plan is to use a Forstner bit to sink a flat hole to allow the nylon nut to get below the plywood surface.
Wha'd'yall think? workable?
Here is where I can get the 12 foot length for $9.50
http://www.canadasteel.ca/
CRF31658 3/16 X 5/8 CR FLAT 0.3984 12

TomS

[mike james]

Thanks for all the input. I ordered 2 T rail bars from the site that Ron K posted. I also ordered 2 HDPE (high density polyethylene) white plastic cutting board stock 3/4 x 3/8 x 36" from the same place. Thanks again for all the help.

Mike