What kind of router should I buy?

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soulfinger
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What kind of router should I buy?

#1 Post by soulfinger »

I'm want to buy a router to finish up my current T18 project, and as well as for future BFM and other projects. I've never had a router before. After doing some research, it seems like I can't go wrong with the venerable Porter-Cable 690. If I went that route (hah!), is it worth it to upgrade to the one with variable speed and soft-start? How important is that?

I'm going to start with a fixed base, which is certainly the most useful. I don't have a lot of use for a plunge base right now. I could always add the plunge base later, though it's cheaper to buy it up front. I guess it would be fun to try some mortising, but again, I'm not sure how much immediate need I have for a plunge base.

The other option I'm entertaining is this Sear's Craftsman model.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... e+Trimmers

While it certainly doesn't have the long-established pedigree of the Porter-Cable, there are a ton of reviews on it that are overwhelmingly positive. I like that Craftsman offers a lot of attatchments and add-ons for their routers, and it's obviously appealing that it's less than half the price of the comparable Porter-Cable package. At that price, I would assume it's a poorly made, but it's hard to argue with all those really positive reviews.

Any input would be appreciated.

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David Carter
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#2 Post by David Carter »

I just bought the exact Craftsman model you linked to. Got it last week (for my birthday), but haven't had a chance/need to use it yet as I'm not currently building anything, and I can't find my bits (moved last summer and haven't seen them since then :wall: ). The only thing I can see so far to be aware of with the Craftsman is that the baseplates it comes with have smallish holes in them, and I doubt a 1/2" roundover bit will fit through them. Some of the reviewers bought additional baseplates while at least one guy just enlarged the hole using a large coping bit and plunging it through the baseplate.

I'll be interested to hear what you end up with. I'm excited to try out my new Craftsman, but need to find my bits first.
Dave

Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)

gdougherty
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#3 Post by gdougherty »

Plunge is handy for hole cutting. Look for router reviews from Fine Woodworking. The porter cable is a great one, I like the weight and features of the Ridgid set. Some of the Ridgid stuff is top notch hanging with or surpassing the big boys and other Ridgid items are below grade. It seems the popular stuff that gets reviewed and compared all the time has been thoroughly refined over the past few years. The rest is kind of back burner. Can't go wrong with the DeWalts either.

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djohnson573
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#4 Post by djohnson573 »

I would go ahead and get the plunge base. Just a few BFM uses I can think of off the top of my head are driver spacer rings, speaker holes (TLAH), handles (both through and recessed), jack plates, and top hats.
Dennis

Built/Own:
- 4 x Titan 39 (14"W) BP102 loaded
- 2 x TLAH
- 4 x OT12 Deltalite 2512 loaded
On Deck:
- 3 Auto Tubas

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Tim A
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#5 Post by Tim A »

gdougherty wrote:Look for router reviews from Fine Woodworking.
I agree. This combo kit got extremely high marks from Woodworking Magazine, going up against all the 'big names'. After reading the review I thought I'd give one a spin.

I have an old B&D, a Craftsman, a Porter Cable and this kit. The Skil more than holds it's own against the PC. I think the set cost $90.

2-1/4HP, 1/4" and 1/2" collets, quick change fixed and plunge bases, variable speed, and an LED worklight (I thought that was silly, but I love it), the plunge stop can be used in three 1/4" increments, excellent for multiple passes.

http://www.skiltools.com/en/AllTools/Ca ... 825&cid=34

This is easily the best deal out there on a router.

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David Carter
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#6 Post by David Carter »

Tim A wrote:
gdougherty wrote:Look for router reviews from Fine Woodworking.
I agree. This combo kit got extremely high marks from Woodworking Magazine, going up against all the 'big names'. After reading the review I thought I'd give one a spin.

I have an old B&D, a Craftsman, a Porter Cable and this kit. The Skil more than holds it's own against the PC. I think the set cost $90.

2-1/4HP, 1/4" and 1/2" collets, quick change fixed and plunge bases, variable speed, and an LED worklight (I thought that was silly, but I love it), the plunge stop can be used in three 1/4" increments, excellent for multiple passes.

http://www.skiltools.com/en/AllTools/Ca ... 825&cid=34

This is easily the best deal out there on a router.
Thoughts on the Skil vs. the Craftsman linked above? I originally bought the Skil kit and then took it back in favor of the Craftsman because they were both the same price and the Craftsman had a nicer case and included an edge guide. Then I found out about the issue with the base plate hole size. I haven't used the Craftsman yet and could easily take it back and get the Skil again if it's a better product. Both seem to get high marks in the reviews I've seen.
Dave

Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)

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Tim A
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#7 Post by Tim A »

Looks like an either/or feature-wise. Although I should razz you for buying a router based on the case.... :slap:

When you deal in specific price points you're going to get similar quality from just about everyone.

That appears to be built by Porter Cable. It'd be a fine choice.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#8 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

I would never buy anything from Skil. Go with Porter-Cable, Ryobi, Makita, high end Craftsman. Get a plunge, you can always use it as fixed but not the other way around. Be sure to have a 1/2" collet, 1/2" bits run smoother, cooler and last longer. For hand held 1-3/4 to 2 Hp. Smaller lacks necessary power, larger is too heavy.

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Tim A
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#9 Post by Tim A »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:I would never buy anything from Skil.

And I would never buy a foreign car, so there ya go.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#10 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

Tim A wrote:
Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:I would never buy anything from Skil.

And I would never buy a foreign car, so there ya go.
OP maybe, but my Nissan was built in New Jersey, my Toyota in Kentucky, so they hardly qualify as 'foreign'. The current plight of the US auto industry isn't the fault of those companies that have overseas headquarters, it's the fault of shortsighted greedy management of the ilk that collect multi-million dollar bonuses for failed performance, rather than doing the right thing, which would be hara-kiri. :roll:

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David Carter
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#11 Post by David Carter »

Tim A wrote:Although I should razz you for buying a router based on the case.... :slap:
I knew that was coming. :oops: The case wasn't the reason--it was just an extra benefit. The real reason was my perception (perhaps incorrect) that the Craftsman was of no less quality (I have owned other tools of both Skil and Craftsman brand in the past) and the fact that the Crafstman seems to be much more similar in design to the PC and I hoped that this meant that it would be compatible with a greater number of third-party accessories than the Skil. And since I am working around a certain price point, the edge guide and the case were extra icing on the cake. If the two models are pretty even, then I'll stick with the Craftsman. The main uses for the foreseeable future will be edge work, spacer rings, handle cutouts, and perhaps dadoing for braces. I also have a Jasper jig on order from PE.
Dave

Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)

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Tim A
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#12 Post by Tim A »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: [my Nissan was built in New Jersey, my Toyota in Kentucky,
Other than the fact that well over half the money from those purchases went to Japan, and over 3/4 of the parts came from Japan. While it's true that those vehicles provide jobs, that's where it starts and ends. That hardly qualify as a US vehicle.

But that wasn't my point. I also wouldn't play anything but a Gibson or Fender. I am a dyed in the wool guitar snob. There are snobs in every facet of life from tools to guitars to airplanes to cars. My point is that everyone has their own opinion. I've had very good luck with this router or I wouldn't have recommended it.

Sydney

Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#13 Post by Sydney »

I have caught a lot of "Buy American" flak as well but "Foreign Made" has been a vague phrase for a while now...
U.S. car makers have sold vehicles in the US ( made offshore ) at least since the early 70's. And as Bill said, Just about every Japanese manufacturer has an U.S. plant with U.S. workers, my state included.
Bottom line: The 1st Oil Crisis of the 70's was a warning that Detroit ignored.
AFAIK: There has been no TV sets manufactured in the US for a long time.
Many have no problem buying German designed electronics made by Chinese workers.

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Tim A
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#14 Post by Tim A »

David Carter wrote: that the Craftsman was of no less quality (I have owned other tools of both Skil and Craftsman brand in the past) and the fact that the Crafstman seems to be much more similar in design to the PC and I hoped that this meant that it would be compatible with a greater number of third-party accessories than the Skil.
Back when Sears used to contract with specific companies to build their own designs they definitely had a leg up on the competition for the average user. Nowadays they simply contract with companies to brand the tools. If you look closely at a good portion of their products they are a duplicate of someone else's. My big table saw is a Ryobi, it could also be found as a Craftsman for $150 more. Odds are the Craftsman router is not only similar in design to the PC, but is a PC.

As I said, it's not a bad choice by any means, at least to me. Tools snobs will warn you off Crafstman just as quickly as B&D or Skil. I use what works.

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Tim A
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Re: What kind of router should I buy?

#15 Post by Tim A »

Sydney wrote: Bottom line: The 1st Oil Crisis of the 70's was a warning that Detroit ignored.
Ill-informed. GM has more vehicles that exceed 30MPG than anyone else. Honda's half pickup/half SUV gets worse mileage than my full sized Silverado. I had a 1989 GMC Sierra that got 21MPG highway.

If it were all about mileage, the foreign makers wouldn't have brought out full sized trucks.

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