panel cutting jig newb help, strait edges?

[soulfinger]

I had a few problems building my panel jig as well, though now that I have it working properly, it's beautiful. I think part of my problem is that when I put my framing square on the blade, it's hard to get it perfectly, exactly aligned to the blade because of the teeth that stick out from the blade. They push the framing square a bit to the side, because you can't get the square to perfectly line up with the teeth on both the front and back of the blade. Any ideas on how to deal with that?

Eventually, I got a backstop on my jig that was close to cutting square, and I put a few pieces of duct tape on one side of it to change the angle slightly, and now it works great. I've been getting panels that are square to less than 1/32", probably less.

[djohnson573]

You're quite welcome. Glad I could help since apparently I'm not even in the minor leagues.

I've first hand familiarity with Tim's mad skills. No offense meant.

No offense taken. Besides, it was Bruce that dissed me. Tim really knows his stuff and has been a tremendous help to me as have many others who have taken the time to post here.

[djohnson573]

I had a few problems building my panel jig as well, though now that I have it working properly, it's beautiful. I think part of my problem is that when I put my framing square on the blade, it's hard to get it perfectly, exactly aligned to the blade because of the teeth that stick out from the blade. They push the framing square a bit to the side, because you can't get the square to perfectly line up with the teeth on both the front and back of the blade. Any ideas on how to deal with that?

Here is a pretty decent article on setting up a table saw: http://www.twwwg.com/newsletters/Tips/T ... gnment.doc
Note that the author suggests using a flat steel plate mounted on the arbor. After the saw is correctly set up, I rarely measure anything against the blade other than angle.

In the case of the panel jig, square the push bar to the cut made in the base instead of the blade.

[phil]

I had a few problems building my panel jig as well, though now that I have it working properly, it's beautiful. I think part of my problem is that when I put my framing square on the blade, it's hard to get it perfectly, exactly aligned to the blade because of the teeth that stick out from the blade. They push the framing square a bit to the side, because you can't get the square to perfectly line up with the teeth on both the front and back of the blade. Any ideas on how to deal with that?

Here is a pretty decent article on setting up a table saw: http://www.twwwg.com/newsletters/Tips/T ... gnment.doc
Note that the author suggests using a flat steel plate mounted on the arbor. After the saw is correctly set up, I rarely measure anything against the blade other than angle.

In the case of the panel jig, square the push bar to the cut made in the base instead of the blade.

That is a great guide. Thanks. A lot of that was in the manual to my new bosch saw. I went through and checked everything again though, and there were a couple of things the manual didn't mention.

I finally got everything seemingly perfect after adding my 3rd strip of wood.

I was using the blade and even when set between teeth it was a little off. I used the cut as the gauge like you suggested and now everything seems to be lined up perfect. I cut a couple of scrap squares and they matched up!

Between that and the instructions on cutting the wood, everything is working out.

I'll just call the last 3 days my table saw crash course. I've made a top and bottom and a few of the horn parts in the process, but now I'm just going to start over cause I was having some issues with those parts because of these problems.

After the last few days, and with a good jig, I think I'll be able to cut most of the pieces for my 10.5 before I finish my coffee .

Thanks again everyone. I'm completely overwhelmed by all the great support from everyone!

[djohnson573]

Phil,

Sounds like you've got it now. Just be sure to post pictures.

[phil]

Much better day today thanks to everyone! I got everything cut for both 10.5's, and got both horn assemblies put together and drying in the garage! Even built a couple little jigs in a couple of minutes for the baffle braces!

Having an accurate jig sure is nice .

Now that I about have the table saw basically figured out...It's gonna be time to learn how to use a router . Hopefully that learning curve is a little less!

Thanks again.

[soulfinger]

In the case of the panel jig, square the push bar to the cut made in the base instead of the blade.

Oh duh. That would be way the heck easier.

[tommyj]

Do you guys have both your 0 degree and 45 degree on one jig? My first jig fell apart because I had both on one. The push bar, although reinforced, couldn't hold the jig sturdy, especially when taking it on and off the table saw.
The weight of the jig eventually pulled itself apart

Is it easier to have two panel jigs, one for straight cuts and one for the fewer amount of 45 degree cuts?

[djohnson573]

I have seen Bill and others suggest separate jigs for different angles. If nothing else, it gives you zero clearance cutting on the cuts. I just have one jig and the push bar is made out of solid 2 x 2 oak. So far no problems, but to be honest I haven't had it off my table since I built it (with the exception of two dado sessions) since I use it on everything. My blade always makes a nice clean cut, so the zero clearance thing has not been an issue.

[LelandCrooks]

I have 2 jigs. The square cut jig is far faster for oddball square cuts. Just line up the lines and cut. On the angle jig, because the gap is so wide, it's harder to get the alignment correct, and allow for the kerf. The angle jig also gets out of square more often.

[AntonZ]

Do you guys have both your 0 degree and 45 degree on one jig? My first jig fell apart because I had both on one. The push bar, although reinforced, couldn't hold the jig sturdy, especially when taking it on and off the table saw.
The weight of the jig eventually pulled itself apart

That's what I was afraid of for my own jig. So I add this to the jig before taking it off the saw table:



Just tighten the thumb screws



Jig ready for lift off


No more fear of breaking jig, it's pretty solid with the extra bar attached. Like Leland, I don't do angle cuts with this one. Having a shallow kerf in the jig allows me to aim the cut precisely enough. I have a mini jig for angled cuts, haven't done that on larger pieces, apart from a 60° add-on to the big jig:

[bgavin]

Besides, it was Bruce that dissed me.

If I did, it sure was not intended.


Leland said, "I've first hand familiarity with Tim's mad skills. No offense meant."
That applies to me too.

[djohnson573]

Besides, it was Bruce that dissed me.

If I did, it sure was not intended.


Leland said, "I've first hand familiarity with Tim's mad skills. No offense meant."
That applies to me too.

Bruce, I was just kidding. I have learned more from you on this forum that I can ever hope to repay.

[bgavin]

Thanks.
I get constant education from Harley, Leland, and Tim.
There is a lot of offline dialog between builders, so I always get to play catchup.