I cracked my tweeter array, now what?

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.
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loobahood8b
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 4:48 pm

I cracked my tweeter array, now what?

#1 Post by loobahood8b »

The array cracked down the middle when I was installing it in the cab. The angle I suppose was slightly less than 45 degrees, so the stress just pulled it back apart. The arrays were pre-made by Leland, so I'm sure the glue was dry. What's the best way for sealing the small gap down the center of my array? More model glue, PL premium, other ideas? Whatever adhesive/sealant I do use, should I apply it from the front or the back of the array?

Thanks

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LelandCrooks
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Re: I cracked my tweeter array, now what?

#2 Post by LelandCrooks »

Glazing compound from the auto parts store. Also called spot putty. It sands very smoothly with 200 or 400g wet or dry. The paint on the arrays is Krylon satin black.

Man, as strong as that center joint is I can't imagine one pulled apart.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

loobahood8b
Posts: 52
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 4:48 pm

Re: I cracked my tweeter array, now what?

#3 Post by loobahood8b »

Cracked both of them actually. Though, it's not like then entirely fell apart, just the middle of each tweeter's throat opened a little. Spot putty did the job (and dried really quick too). However, I'm kinda stuck on the wiring stage, trying to decide whether or not to install the high pass filter or not (I still can't really figure out how). Does anyone have like a picture showing exactly how all these components are actually soldered? Just reading explanations still has me feeling uneasy about just zapping things together.

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thijs666
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Re: I cracked my tweeter array, now what?

#4 Post by thijs666 »

loobahood8b wrote:Does anyone have like a picture showing exactly how all these components are actually soldered? Just reading explanations still has me feeling uneasy about just zapping things together.
Here's a pic of the x-over I made for my wedgehorns, which I believe is the same as the x-over for a DR200 or an O10... :feedback:
Attachments
Wedgehorn X-over
Wedgehorn X-over
BF cabs built to date:
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014

Sydney

Re: I cracked my tweeter array, now what?

#5 Post by Sydney »

Since you asked :wink:
Rotate one of those inductor coils so that the axis ( an imaginary line through center of the hole in the doughnut ) is on a different axis 90 degrees off - to minimize mutual coupling.
The way a transformer or pickup coil works after all; Is no physical connection involved, just proximity and orientation of flux lines.

I recommend using barrier strips ( US or Euro-style ). This makes wiring, testing and modification easy.

I would recommend adding a physical restraint on those components; I have seen hot glue fail or pull off taking a bit of the top veneer with it.
I use a double layer of masonite/perf-board so I can loop cable ties around and pull tight to the board.

( Some might also consider this nitpicking, but I mount power resistors so that there is a little air around it, because what resistors do - provide friction and heat up )

FWIW
Syd

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thijs666
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Re: I cracked my tweeter array, now what?

#6 Post by thijs666 »

Sydney wrote:Since you asked :wink:
Rotate one of those inductor coils so that the axis ( an imaginary line through center of the hole in the doughnut ) is on a different axis 90 degrees off - to minimize mutual coupling.
The way a transformer or pickup coil works after all; Is no physical connection involved, just proximity and orientation of flux lines.

I recommend using barrier strips ( US or Euro-style ). This makes wiring, testing and modification easy.

I would recommend adding a physical restraint on those components; I have seen hot glue fail or pull off taking a bit of the top veneer with it.
I use a double layer of masonite/perf-board so I can loop cable ties around and pull tight to the board.

( Some might also consider this nitpicking, but I mount power resistors so that there is a little air around it, because what resistors do - provide friction and heat up )

FWIW
Syd
You are completely right :owned: .
Now in my defense :D :
The resistors probably aren't going to get very warm, since they only get to see 2 kHz and up (they're hooked up after the 2nd order capacitor/inductor filter).
I did try to find something on mutual coupling of air coils and wanted to know exactly how bad it would be to put them like I have now, but I didn't succeed, so I'm a bit in the dark there :? . I know it would be better to turn 1 coil, but it was easier to glue them down this way :oops: ...
As for the hot glue only restraints: :iitp: . Yeah, I know, it would be better to use tire wraps to hold them down too, but I'm gonna try it without first :conf:. Probably :wall: , but we'll see.

Thanks for the comments, though. I appreciate it :) .
BF cabs built to date:
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014

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Tom Smit
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Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: I cracked my tweeter array, now what?

#7 Post by Tom Smit »

I hot-glued my piezo resistors in...and found out later that they fell off! and shorted out. :oops: Tie straps would keep them in place.

TomS
TomS

loobahood8b
Posts: 52
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 4:48 pm

Re: I cracked my tweeter array, now what?

#8 Post by loobahood8b »

hey thanks for the pic thijs, sorry i didn't reply sooner

this should be a useful comparison tool should i ever go forward with the hpf isntallation, for now though, i'm trying the cabs with out it

also, does anyone know if pl premium makes a better fastener than hot glue? is using pl even a good idea?

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