DR200 and T30 First Impressions

[Brew]

T30 loaded w/ Delta-12LFA, single. 24" wide. These are the slim version from some older versions of plans. Use is primarily for DJ work. But they are cumbersome for hauling around,(I'm well past the age for lugging big boxes), the pair really fills the back of a mini-van. Great Great performers, though.
If to do again, I would choose Titan39. Don"t really need the bottom.

[BrentEvans]

Aaaaand that's why you don't ask the guy who was so awestruck with the sound what the guy who built the speakers said.

Great Great performers, though.

+1

When we first powered up, I thought my multimeter was malfunctioning, was registering in the millivolts on the sub, and the room was pretty well filled with bass.

BTW Bruce, tested the meter, it's fine. It was an ESO* issue on top of an ID-10.T error.

*Equipment Superior To Operator

[Tom Smit]

Hey Brent, don't be afraid to build. I kinda rushed in my build, which was in fits and starts, and my Omni 10.5's turned out OK, ie, body filler and Duratek cover up real well. Take your time, read the instructions 2,or3, or 30, or 40 times until you can recite it. And like others have said, one step at a time...and one cab at a time. You will succeed

TomS

[djohnson573]

getting over the nervousness was a product of our conversation.

What's to be nervous about? Maybe sometimes the conversation here makes things seem overwhelming, but in the end it boils down to wood and plastic. Neither are exotic, both are replaceable. Follow the plans and you'll be fine.

For someone's first attempt at building a speaker (or anything for that matter) there is a natural tendency to be hesitant despite the degree of difficulty. Add to that the investment in tools, parts, and materials and it easy to get very nervous about the whole process. Anyone who has followed my T-39 build experience knows that I over thought the entire project. Even with years of woodworking experience, I (over) analyzed each step, asked a lot of questions, took it slow and ended up with a couple of beautiful cabinets with only one panel that had to be refabricated.

Never once in the entire process did I finish a step and say "Wow, that was a lot harder than I thought it was going to be". I was always more like "I can't believe I was so worried about that. That was easy!". I even put off cracking open that first can of Duratex only to find out that it is one of the most fantastic and easy to use finish products I have ever applied. So Brent, go for it, tell us about your experience, and post lots of pictures. The DR200 is next on my hit list so I'm looking forward to watching.

[djohnson573]

I just have to figure out how to do it without losing any fingers (that would be quite annoying to a keyboard / bass / guitar person). I'm the eternal kluttz.

If you are going to use a table saw, then please do order the panel jig with your plans. It costs next to nothing, it's a great addition to a simple table saw and makes the thing a lot safer to operate. It is easy to make, a joy to work with, makes cutting square pannels easier and faster and is a good starter before getting into the cab building itself.

+10 Should be mandatory. Safer, more accurate cuts.

[BrentEvans]

Thanks for all the encouragement. I'm looking forward to the project.

[Mikey]

Brent, did you measure under the communion table? Will a T39 fit under there? Or do you have a different plan for the bottom end now?

[BrentEvans]

It will fit, Space is 24" deep. I think even a T39-14 would be overkill, based on what I heard, but that would probably be the least expensive build. I thought about O12 Sub, but I think the T39 would look better, with the longer lower profile, plus if I build that first, it'll help my chops for the DR200s.

[Mikey]

It will fit, Space is 24" deep. I think even a T39-14 would be overkill, based on what I heard, but that would probably be the least expensive build. I thought about O12 Sub, but I think the T39 would look better, with the longer lower profile, plus if I build that first, it'll help my chops for the DR200s.

Yeah, a T39 with a BP102 is your best bang-for-the-buck. Build it as wide as you can to fit it under the table ... extra sensitivity is a GOOD thing!

[BrentEvans]

I was thinking a 16" simply for the response smoothing. Either would fit and be low profile (it'll be laid on its side). I ran a SPL meter during service tonight, music peaked at 88DB about halfway back, with an average in the low 80s, and preaching no higher than 76db at mix position. Needless to say, we won't be pushing the system hard at all. After conversing more with Bruce, I'm thinking even O10.5s would work well, and be an easier starter build. Just wish I could hear some.

[Mikey]

I was thinking a 16" simply for the response smoothing.

The wider the better. As wide as will fit under the table, up to 24".

I'm thinking even O10.5s would work well, and be an easier starter build. Just wish I could hear some.

Bill's rule of thumb is "DRs if you can build them, Omnis if you can't", plus, general concensus is that DRs sound better than Omnis. If you're not comfortable enough in your woodworking abilities or you don't have the time to build DRs, by all means build Omnis. However, since you're using a T39, you don't need the extension of O10.5s. You'd be better-off with the much greater sensitivity of OT12s.

[gdougherty]

I was thinking a 16" simply for the response smoothing.

The wider the better. As wide as will fit under the table, up to 24".

I'm thinking even O10.5s would work well, and be an easier starter build. Just wish I could hear some.

Bill's rule of thumb is "DRs if you can build them, Omnis if you can't", plus, general concensus is that DRs sound better than Omnis. If you're not comfortable enough in your woodworking abilities or you don't have the time to build DRs, by all means build Omnis. However, since you're using a T39, you don't need the extension of O10.5s. You'd be better-off with the much greater sensitivity of OT12s.

+1 I use a pair of OT12's and 2 T48's for installed church sound. We run similar volumes though our peaks are into the mid 90's. Headroom is a good thing. I can easily get by with just one T48, I use two because I need to store them somewhere.

[bgavin]

It was an ESO* issue on top of an ID-10.T error.

Cool.

[BrentEvans]

Wondered when someone was going to get that.

[bgavin]

PICNIC = problem in chair, not in computer
ID-10.T = idiot, same as the one using the DVD tray as a coffee cup holder.
ESO = equipment superior to operator; new one to me, completely relevant.

ESO is widely applied.
I suspect Bill's boxes are ESO in nearly all cases.
Then again, my MIM P-bass is ESO in most cases.