polyurethane adhesive is the most awful substance ever

[loobahood8b]

Don't get me wrong, it's a great adhesive. It sticks to anything like you wouldn't believe, and I mean anything - wood, metal, concrete, clothing, skin, hair, you name it. I don't even know how many rolls of paper towels I went through wiping and re-wiping this terrible oily gloop off of hands at every step of the assembly process, but it wasn't long before I got very sick of having to deal with this stuff.

Perhaps Bill could include a "WARNING: USING POLYURETHANE IS GOING TO BE THE GROSSEST EXPERIENCE OF YOUR LIFE" disclaimer in the plans somewhere. Had I known what I was in for, I would have definitely invested in a box of surgical gloves and some paper to put on the floor under where I worked.

Also, a week or so after my build, my fingertips have finally molted off the last of what was stuck on my fingers (I could NOT wash it off to save my life), but now I'm suffering from extreme irritation, dryness, peeling, cracking where the glue once was, which I have self diagnosed as eczema. It'd be nice if Leland could include a tube of hydrocortisone creme in his parts kits as well.

I just had to get that off my chest, my fingers hurt so much

My t39 sounds great though.

[LelandCrooks]

It'd be nice if Leland could include a tube of hydrocortisone creme in his parts kits as well..

But, I might start throwing in a couple of pair of disposable latex gloves. Good idea.

[DJPhatman]

Stick with the nitrile gloves instead. Too many are allergic to latex, so the slightly higher expense would be worth it, IMHO.

[David Carter]

Gloves (of whatever type) are your friend. I've gone through a bag of 50 building a pair of DR250 and a pair of T39. Gunk 'em up, toss 'em, get out another pair. They're cheap!

[loobahood8b]

Yeah, a couple of gloves wouldn't do much. You'd probably need a whole box per cab. That's why I think it would be more pertinent for Bill to put something in the plans that says, "If you use polyurethane adhesive, you'll want to wear gloves at all times or else your fingers will crinkle up and fall off." Although, Leland, you could sell boxes of gloves on your site. I'd definitely pick them up there just for convenience's sake.

Also, this is a total side note, but how far will one gallon of Duratex get me in terms of covering a pair of t39's and another pair of o10.5's?

[Zack Brock]

Also, this is a total side note, but how far will one gallon of Duratex get me in terms of covering a pair of t39's and another pair of o10.5's?

I've been told to estimate about a quarter of a gallon per cabinet if you are good with just two coats. So the single gallon should get you both 10.5's and the t39.

[David Carter]

Also, this is a total side note, but how far will one gallon of Duratex get me in terms of covering a pair of t39's and another pair of o10.5's?

I've been told to estimate about a quarter of a gallon per cabinet if you are good with just two coats. So the single gallon should get you both 10.5's and the t39.

I've never had much luck with those estimates. Maybe I just like it thicker than everyone else. I used almost a whole gallon on two DR250's and almost another whole gallon on two T39@14".

[gdougherty]

I like two coverage coats with a regular roller then putting down a heavy texture coat. I ran about 1gal per T48 and 1gal per 4 ot12.

[LelandCrooks]

I've never had much luck with those estimates. Maybe I just like it thicker than everyone else. I used almost a whole gallon on two DR250's and almost another whole gallon on two T39@14".

Man you guys put it on thick.

[loobahood8b]

good to hear, I probably won't go insane, two light coats seems fine to me

...now I just have to find someone who will ship it during winter

[David Carter]

...now I just have to find someone who will ship it during winter

Once you get your hands on it, make darn sure that you don't try to apply it in winter temps. I learned first-hand to take seriously the instructions that say not to apply it in sub-50-degree temps. You will NOT be happy with the results.

[Tom Smit]

Yeah, a couple of gloves wouldn't do much. You'd probably need a whole box per cab.

Did you release the pressure on the gun before setting it aside? Did you put a nail in the end to stop the flow? I use these two techniques and ended with very little waste that would get things messy. Also handy was to wrap the nail in wax paper so that none of the PL would get near my hands. However, once in a while, I might have touched some of the PL that I had just applied. Just have to take your time and go slow.
I used less than 1/2 gallon for 2 Omni 10.5's

TomS

[Harley]

...I don't even know how many rolls of paper towels I went through wiping and re-wiping this terrible oily gloop off of hands at every step of the assembly process, but it wasn't long before I got very sick of having to deal with this stuff......Also, a week or so after my build, my fingertips have finally molted off the last of what was stuck on my fingers (I could NOT wash it off to save my life), but now I'm suffering from extreme irritation, dryness, peeling, cracking where the glue once was, which I have self diagnosed as eczema.

Good grief - toughen up

I just had to get that off my chest,...

It's not necessary to build cabs bare chested you know...you are allowed to wear a shirt

Mind you...we had one guy say PL glue was a pain in the butt and we could never work out why you'd ever want to build cabs with his pants down!

[Tim A]

Um, read the instructions. Mineral spirits will remove it easily before it cures. Use gloves for your hands, whipe everything else with mineral spirits.

[SoundInMotionDJ]

...now I just have to find someone who will ship it during winter

Once you get your hands on it, make darn sure that you don't try to apply it in winter temps. I learned first-hand to take seriously the instructions that say not to apply it in sub-50-degree temps. You will NOT be happy with the results.

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