Angles greater than 45 deg - high fence/vertical cut jig

[dheafey]

As I approached panel 3 on an autotuba, I realized one of the sides was at 55 deg. While building my T39, I used the recommended method of cutting at 45 deg and filling the gap with PL Premium, but I wanted to find a way to make a greater than 45 deg cut on my table saw. For some reason, I'd never seen this thread and happened upon it the other day - WHAT TIMING!! Mad props to the many folks with their fine suggestions; I will paraphrase here: you need to stand your panel vertically and set the blade angle to 90 minus the desired angle. Ex: for 55 deg, 90 - 55 = 35. The trick is to do this safely and accurately; as I'm also a bassist, retaining my fingers is paramount, so I liked Leland's idea of a high fence/vertical cut jig. I'm told this is a common cut among woodworkers, but I'm a mediocre craftsman and have never heard of it. That being said, I thought others could benefit from my jig, so I documented and photographed the build.

Parts List
---------
3/4" Plywood (can be low quality)
1 1/4" coarse drywall screws
Table Saw (small detail )

I decided to use 3/4" plywood as it provides some weight to the jig and seemed to make it sturdier. Here's the cuts:

- 1 24" x 24"
- 1 24" x 4"
- 4 24" x 2 1/2" (you'll only see 2 in the picture, later realized I needed 4)



Next, build a 3 sided box by attaching 3 of the 24" x 2 1/2" pieces to the 24" x 4" piece. Note: the bottom of the box is 2 24" x 2 1/2" pieces as the 24" x 24" panel needs to be screwed to the "top" piece so the drywall screws clear the saw blade.



Next, stand the box up with, the opening facing one side, on a flat, level surface and clamp. This is necessary so the panel and box are square to each other. Screw the panel into the top of the box and the highest of the two bottom pieces (again, so the screws holding the panel to the box clear the saw blade). You'll end up with this:



Time to cut some wood. The 4th 24" x 2 1/2" is used to secure the piece you're cutting to this jig:



Set you're angle to 90 minus desired angle (In my case I needed 55 deg, so 90 - 55 = 35), use the rip fence to move the jig and your panel, and lineup the panel appropriately.



Start the saw, hold the jig tight against the rip fence, and push through the blade. You'll end up with a nice cut.



Mad props to Leland Crooks for describing his jig in a PM conversation. Leland also suggested clamping this to Bill's panel cutting jig which I will try at some point. As always, follow your saw's recommended operating and safety procedures.

[LelandCrooks]

I clamp it in the panel jig because it's faster than the fence. No measuring, you can eyeball it using the panel jig for your square reference marks. I usually screw the panel to the jig, because I'm paranoid. I don't want any clamps giving way and throwing the cut piece back at me.

Nicely done.

[Harley]

This is a great post - good ideas here.

[bgavin]

As I approached panel 3 on an autotuba, I realized one of the sides was at 55 deg.

I cut mine from the opposite side as a 35 degree angle with the circular saw.

A sacrificial cut in scrap gave me the exact kerf position relative to the guide bar. This was faster than building a table saw jig.

For production work, I think an adjustable table saw jig/sled is the right solution.
There are some very creative ideas at work here... thanks for the photos.

[Tom Smit]

There are some very creative ideas at work here... thanks for the photos.

+1

TomS

[la malta]

Thank you! I was scheming on ways I could make angled joints and this is definitely better than what I had in mind.

[mlkras]

+1 for Leland, I always screw the panel to be cut to the jig when I run it through the saw. Then I just have to remember to fill the holes!

My jig has a much wider base for more stability, about ten inches. Rockler sells tool push handles (like on a plane) and I have been thinking about adding one to my jig. Another excuse to go to Rockler as though one was needed.

[thomas]

Looks like a good one, one question tho, why did you make the backing board that the workpiece is clamped to so high?

[LelandCrooks]

Stability on the large panels used in tubas.