I am having issues with getting the duratex sprayed on a cabinet without it cracking. I have been spraying it on in two steps. The first coat is sprayed on about the same thickness as paint. I have not had any problems with this coat. The issue is when I put the second coat on it cracks all the way through the base coat. The second coat is applied at 25 psi with only one turn out on the texture gun. On the cabinet I sprayed last night, two sides are perfect and two sides are about 50% cracked and pealing.
The conditions I am spraying these boxes in are 70 degree with 30% humidity. The splatter coat is only putting texture on. I have wiped down the surface with lacquer thinner between each coat and allowed to dry for 2-3 hours before spraying. I am guessing that the 4 sides of the omni 10.5 took around a cup and a half to do the splatter coat. The only thing that I can think of is that I did not let the base coat dry enough before the second coat? I let the cab set for around 30 hours in the above conditions.
Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? I really like the finish I am seeing in the good spots but I am about to give up and finish the cabs with carpet
The only difference between insanity and genius is success.
I have wiped down the surface with lacquer thinner between each coat.
Is it possible that the thinner leaves a residue?
FWIW: I have not found it necessary for an intermediate wipe down on this stuff. Because it is water based.
I have wiped down the surface with lacquer thinner between each coat.
Is it possible that the thinner leaves a residue?
FWIW: I have not found it necessary for an intermediate wipe down on this stuff. Because it is water based.
I thought of this also but I seriously doubt it because I wiped the cab down before the first coat following the sanding and there were no issues with spiderwebing on that coat.
The only difference between insanity and genius is success.
10range wrote:I thought of this also but I seriously doubt it because I wiped the cab down before the first coat following the sanding and there were no issues with spiderwebing on that coat.
Your laquer thinner may soak into the wood without problem, but remain behind on the duratex. As duratex is a water-based paint you may wish to consider using a damp rag to wipe it down before applying the second coat.
Low End Junkie for over 20 years.
4 DR250s
4 Tuba36s @ 30" wide
2 ATs
...and a very serious addiction to the smell of BB sawdust and curing PL.
Excuse me for asking the obvious: Did you run this by the Acry-Tex guy?
I am not the definitive source on this but I have used many gallons of this type of product ( houses, speakers, art projects ) and never used anything other than water with acrylic latex.
In using a wide variety of other paints, I pay attention to the solvents and thinners used with each.
You can get a lot of crazing, wrinkles, orange peel etc, if you don't.
And some solvents will leave oily residues.
I seriously doubt it's residue from the thinner. Lacquer thinner flashes off rather quickly and leaves nothing behind. However, it could very easily be affecting the Duratex when it's still wet. Duratex is tough but unless you use heat it takes 7 days to fully cure. Stop using the thinner. If you must wipe it down (there's no need to) use a rag dampened with water.
Also, one member had a similar problem and it was due to the subsequent coats being too thick.
Since "lacquer thinner" applies to a variety of differing mixtures than can include acetone and MEK and be blended specially for different paints ( nitrocellulose, etc ) be sure to include the solvent details if you run it by the guy in Florida.
BTW: Since both Acetone and MEK will dissolve many plastics ( MEK is used to fuse piezo horn together ), I now think it is NOT a residue but because of these aggressive solvents themselves.
Sydney wrote: I now think it is NOT a residue but because of these aggressive solvents themselves.
+1. Dan specifically has told me not to use any type of solvents, period. They are still flashing off. It is leaving something behind in the base coat. Crazing and cracking, which can be desirable, are achieved in regular latex paints using these types of solvents.
Since the Duratex takes about a week to fully cure, I'm also in agreement that hitting it with a solvent is a bad idea. The surface isn't finished with its chemical reaction till the curing is complete.
