Duratex finish

[10range]

I am about to finish the build on a set of O10.5 and am planning on finishing them with Duratex. I have not used this product before and I am wondering how much prep I will need to put in to the cabinets before finishing. Do I need to prime the boxes before I apply the duratex? I am also wondering if any grain will show through?

[Scott Brochu]

I have not used it but for what I have read back into the Tips and Tech past threads they say you do not have to prime. It will not show through and to fill in all holes (screw holes) voids in the plywood. I really don't know if you need to sand it down with 250 grit paper but at least sand it with 120 to take off rough spots (uneven grades).
You might want to stroll back on some of the threads to get info.

IMO
good luck.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I am about to finish the build on a set of O10.5 and am planning on finishing them with Duratex. I have not used this product before and I am wondering how much prep I will need to put in to the cabinets before finishing. Do I need to prime the boxes before I apply the duratex? I am also wondering if any grain will show through?

Sand with 40 to 80 grit, that's it. The grain won't show with birch or Arauco with one coat. Covering the grain with spruce, pine or fir will take a few coats.

[DJPhatman]

What shows is dependant on how you apply DuraTex (roll or spray), the kind of finish you are after (rough and gritty, or smoother and orange-peel like) and how many coats you apply.

Primer is not needed, as DuraTex is self-priming.

Prep is nothing more than sand it down with no finer than 80 grit, wipe everything with spirits, allow to dry, and apply many thin coats.

I tried spraying Hi-Build with the Harbor Freight hopper gun, but ended up not liking the results. Then I rolled it on, and WOW! I got exactly the finish I was after! Experiment on scrap wood to find what suits you.

[David Carter]

Also, make sure you avoid the mistakes I made my first time...

- do not apply in sub 50-degree temps
- do not put it on too thick to avoid having to do another coat
- allow PLENTY of drying time between coats (colder temps and thicker coats increase required drying time)

Following these guidelines will save you LOTS of aggravation. Trust me, I've done it both ways, and the difference is HUGE!

[bgavin]

Any problems with Duratex sticking to flat black paint?

I find it easier to spray flat-black into places that are hard to reach, as I assemble the box. This includes horn mouths, obviously, but also the inned edges of access cover cutouts, the access cover edges, etc.

[LelandCrooks]

Any problems with Duratex sticking to flat black paint?

I find it easier to spray flat-black into places that are hard to reach, as I assemble the box. This includes horn mouths, obviously, but also the inned edges of access cover cutouts, the access cover edges, etc.

How I do it everywhere that's hard to reach with a hopper gun. To quote our favorite Kiwi, "Works a treat"

[WB]

Any problems with Duratex sticking to flat black paint?

No stickage problems here.

I prefer to Duratex over a base coat of (latex) flat or semi flat black paint. It makes it easier to have a starting surface that's already black, especially in the hard to reach parts.

[Scott Brochu]

Any problems with Duratex sticking to flat black paint?

I find it easier to spray flat-black into places that are hard to reach, as I assemble the box. This includes horn mouths, obviously, but also the inned edges of access cover cutouts, the access cover edges, etc.

read this

http://billfitzmaurice.com/phpBB2/viewt ... =14&t=4833

[DaveK]

I like to prime the hard to spray areas with Duratex, applied with a brush and/or roller. That gives me complete coverage of all nooks and crannies. Then I apply a texture coat or two.

Rough sanding is all you need, but be sure to fill every hole with Bondo. 18 ga. brad holes will show thru a Duratex finish. Also check your corners for small voids in the exposed ends of your plywood and fill those, too.

[Rick Auricchio]

What I did for a beautiful Duratex finish:

1. Sanded with 60 grit, per Bill's advice.

2. Wipe with a painter's tack cloth.

3. A single rolled base coat of black latex satin.

4. Touch-up of missed spots and a very light once-over sanding.

5. The first Duratex coat, using a foam texture roller. Looks somewhat like a natural sponge with big holes in it.

6. The second Duratex coat, same as the first.

TIPS: A cheap foam "corner roller" works well in the hard-to-reach inside corners. That and a 1" foam brush.

Roll the Duratex thicker than conventional paint, but plan on two coats.