Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
After having completed my Omni 10.5's and having used Duratex High Build with a texture roller (loop type), I was somewhat disappointed with the results (caveat: this is my first time using Duratex). I had some significant cracking and peeling problems that I had to scrape and re-do. I used two coats, the first with just a high nap roller, the second with the loop texture roller. I left over 4 hours between the coats, but it was the second coat that caused the problems. I expect that based on previous comments, I just applied too thick of a coat with the texture roller.
So with this behind me and gearing up for my next build which is an O15TB (just got all the parts, thanks Leland!) I'm contemplating whether for rolling, the original roller grade would be better than the high build (I really don't want to get into spraying). I was going for a highly textured finish with the 10.5's and that may have contributed to my problem. Actually I realized that I would prefer less texture, more along the lines of a leather or tolex kind of finish. Would I be better off with the roller grade or stay with the high build but just use a high nap roller instead (being careful not to apply too much on one coat)?
So with this behind me and gearing up for my next build which is an O15TB (just got all the parts, thanks Leland!) I'm contemplating whether for rolling, the original roller grade would be better than the high build (I really don't want to get into spraying). I was going for a highly textured finish with the 10.5's and that may have contributed to my problem. Actually I realized that I would prefer less texture, more along the lines of a leather or tolex kind of finish. Would I be better off with the roller grade or stay with the high build but just use a high nap roller instead (being careful not to apply too much on one coat)?
Builds:
2 - Omni 10.5
1 - Omni 15 Tallboy
2 - Omni 10.5
1 - Omni 15 Tallboy
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
The whole idea of high-build is a single coat system.
Drying time isn't based as much on hours as it is conditions. Humidity will slow the process, heat will speed it up, etc. If you use regular and are doing 2 coats, try letting the base dry overnight.
Drying time isn't based as much on hours as it is conditions. Humidity will slow the process, heat will speed it up, etc. If you use regular and are doing 2 coats, try letting the base dry overnight.
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
Oh, so you're saying that I would have been better off just using a single coat (it did actually look pretty good after the first coat come to think of it)? I wound up using 5-ply fir plywood and I remember reading somewhere that Duratex wouldn't cover as well on the fir as it would on BB or the Arauco, so I was thinking to use 2 coats. Probably wasn't necessary with the high build stuff.Tim A wrote:The whole idea of high-build is a single coat system.
Drying time isn't based as much on hours as it is conditions. Humidity will slow the process, heat will speed it up, etc. If you use regular and are doing 2 coats, try letting the base dry overnight.
Builds:
2 - Omni 10.5
1 - Omni 15 Tallboy
2 - Omni 10.5
1 - Omni 15 Tallboy
- David Carter
- Posts: 1840
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 7:20 am
- Location: (East) Tennessee, USA
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
I had many of the same problems with my first Duratex experience. After talking to Acrytech on the phone, I concluded that it was low temps, not enough drying time, and too thick a coat that caused my problems. I also used High Build. For my second attempt, I used roller grade (based on the recommendation of the Acrytech guy I spoke to) and also took steps to avoid all the other issues. The results were great. I would recommend using roller grade plus being careful about application conditions. That should produce much better results. One or two coats is just a matter of whether or not you get the coverage and texture you want with the first coat. I did two coats.
Last edited by David Carter on Wed Aug 20, 2008 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dave
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
- LelandCrooks
- Posts: 7242
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
- Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
- Contact:
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
Roller grade is very forgiving. Hibuild can be rolled, spraying is best.
I personally much prefer the hibuild, but I also spray everything.
I personally much prefer the hibuild, but I also spray everything.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
http://www.speakerhardware.com
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
You can also try spraying instead of rolling. It sounds intimidating at first (at least it did to me), but is pretty easy. You just need a $100 pancake sprayer (borrow from a friend if possible) and a ~$20 texture sprayer from Harbor Freight. I'm really happy with the results.
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
Well, actually I do have the compressor (part of a brad nailer kit that worked great for my O10.5's). Hmm... I'll have to think about the spraying thing. If I do decide to spray, would the correct sprayer be something like this?DaveK wrote:You can also try spraying instead of rolling. It sounds intimidating at first (at least it did to me), but is pretty easy. You just need a $100 pancake sprayer (borrow from a friend if possible) and a ~$20 texture sprayer from Harbor Freight. I'm really happy with the results.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=43430
Builds:
2 - Omni 10.5
1 - Omni 15 Tallboy
2 - Omni 10.5
1 - Omni 15 Tallboy
- LelandCrooks
- Posts: 7242
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
- Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
- Contact:
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
Nope, that's a hvlp, too fine to spray duratex. You need a texture hopper gun. It appears the harbor freight cheapie is gone. I couldn't find it on their site.
http://www.amazon.com/Air-Hopper-Textur ... 617&sr=8-7
I sell a professional grade one. It's around $90.
http://www.speakerhardware.com/proddeta ... d=tl572675
http://www.amazon.com/Air-Hopper-Textur ... 617&sr=8-7
I sell a professional grade one. It's around $90.
http://www.speakerhardware.com/proddeta ... d=tl572675
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
http://www.speakerhardware.com
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
Check this out! No compressor required!
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
- LelandCrooks
- Posts: 7242
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
- Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
- Contact:
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
I saw that. It's pretty cool, but my experience with Wagner is not good. From personal perspective, not from rental use.DJPhatman wrote:Check this out! No compressor required!
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
http://www.speakerhardware.com
Re: Duratex Roller Grade or High Build ?
It's hard to find on their site, but this is the one I bought and the one mentioned on the Duratex web site.LelandCrooks wrote:You need a texture hopper gun. It appears the harbor freight cheapie is gone. I couldn't find it on their site.
http://www.amazon.com/Air-Hopper-Textur ... 617&sr=8-7
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... umber=2471