Victory at last! My O15TB's are done! A few pictures....

[Pixelmaster]

Happy to share.

What you need to do is duplicate your background layer then select your subject and while you have your selection active hit the "Q" key to get to the quick mask view (usually shows up in pink).

Once you have that you will probably see that the edge of your selection is too sharp. Go to Filter >Blur> Gaussian Blur and alter the settings until you get a good feathered edge for the resolution of your image.

Once you feather the edge of your selection hit the "Q" key to exit the quick mask mode.

Now hit "Cntrl-J" and your selection (subject) will be placed on a new layer all by itself.

Go to your copied layer just below, and then go to File >Blur>Motion Blur and choose Zoom Blur. Adjust your center target and the degree you want to zoom. Once that is complete you can lower the opacity of that blurred layer to the degree that suites you.

You can also apply a mask to that layer to block out any other areas you do not want blurred.

Hope that helps!

[Jujuman]

Hey Pixelmaster
Great work!!

What is the brand of your circle jig for the router?

Thanks

Jujuman

[Pixelmaster]

Brand is: Lewin

This router jig is "generic" in that there are no holes drilled in it for the router base so you can use it with most any router. Just remove the plastic base on your router and use it as a template to centerpunch your holes in the jig and then drill and countersink.

Works great!

[Pixelmaster]

I built the mid-range horn and tweeter mount into the front panel prior to assembling the cabinet. This is a departure from Bill's approach but I did this because I modified the plan so that the sides of the cab would protrude 1/2" forward from the front of the cabinet. I'm glad I did this for several reasons...I may float a metal grille over the front of the cabinet and this modification also allows me to lay the cabinet down on it's face without having to worry about placing the weight of the cabinet on the selenium horn which protrudes just less than 1/2".



I made sure the front panel was clamped absolutely flat prior to mounting the mid-range horn so that I wasn't stuck with a front panel that was warped after the glue around the horn had cured.









Once the mid-range horn is cured you will see that it sticks up slightly in the hole that is cut for it. I routed this down to within about .010" so that I could dress it quickly with a belt sander and it was done.








I added a 10 inch diameter reinforcement to the bottom of the cabinet so that the weight of the cabinet would be dispersed better once the top hat was installed. I surrounded the top hat post with adhesive inside the hole once installed with machine screws and fender washers so that it was locked in place. The cabinet is surprisingly stable when pole mounted. I was worried initially due to the weight of the cabinet but it seems fine.




Brushed on the first coat of Duratex and then sanded down. All ready for the final coat to be sprayed.




Detail shots....

[LelandCrooks]

You do very nice work. Details are everything.

[Harley]

You do very nice work. Details are everything.

+100

[AntonZ]

You do very nice work. Details are everything.

+100

I'll raise you another +100
Very neat work indeed, lovely workshop and tool collection as well. The second pic in the thread (the mid horn about to be glued and nailed) said it all. It almost looked too precise, too perfect, are you sure you didn't photoshop that one from scratch?

[Pixelmaster]

Thanks for the comments. The truth is in a former career I built patterns for the metal castings industry where we held tolerances in wood on a regular basis to within .005 inch or closer. I don't have all the tools I had when I was in the trade but over time I've collected just the right tools for a job like this.

FYI - The nails serve only as pins during the final glue up and then the screws are driven home. The nails get pulled once the glue is cured.

Nothing but fun!

I can't wait for fall when the weather here in Atlanta cools down and my garage is tolerable again...that's when the Tuba 24's get built.

[Tom Smit]

Wow dude. you have set the bar quite high!

TomS

[gdougherty]

Gorgeous work. What kind of plywood are you building with?

[DAVID_L_PERRY]

Cant help thinking that a few screws would be a good idea here.......



Awesome work, very, very clean and tidy......[/img]

[Pixelmaster]

Using 9-ply baltic birch plywood.

The screws cost extra so I decided against them and went with Gorilla glue since I had some of that handy.

[Sydney]

I'm with DAVID_L_PERRY:
Glue is just a surface bond. Glued & Screwed is much stronger. Lot of stress there.
BTW: Thx for the photoshop tip

[DAVID_L_PERRY]

I didn't for a second think that that was a finished photo.... the shots are prior to bolting the castors in place..............

This shows the back and you can see the screws added:-


[/img]

[Pixelmaster]

I appreciate the hard work from those that stood by me through this difficult time and supported my decision to use the screws after all.

The evidence speaks for itself.

I rest my case and throw myself on the mercy of the court.