Duratex

Message

SoundInMotionDJ · Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:27 am

Tim Ard wrote:Stan, how are you getting the texture coat via a roller? I've seen a few methods, please tell me yours!

I put a base coat of Duratex on the cabinet with a standard 1/4" nap roller cover.

I use a textured roller cover that has plastic loops instead of a fiber nap. The loops are about 1/4" deep on the roller cover. I cut a full size cover in half and use it on a smaller roller - for better control. David Perry posted a good tutorial about rolling a texture.

I'll post some pics of the finished DR200's and the roller cover. I went for thicker bumps on these.

--Stan Graves

Tim A · #17 Post by **Tim A** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:14 am

I saw Dave's post, wondered if your's varied any.

My concern is getting the roller into the horn mouth. I'd need to find a short roller frame.

DaveK · #18 Post by **DaveK** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:23 am

David Carter wrote:my experience with coverage seems to be different that everyone else's. It took almost a whole gallon for me to do two DR250's

I had a similar experience with my first Duratex cab. I found that once I developed better technique a gallon went a lot farther. Two things made the difference for me. The first was spraying the first coat with a fine mist for good coverage. The second was precoating all the hard to spray spots with a brush.

Don't give up yet. The next cabs you do will come out better.

Scott Brochu · #19 Post by **Scott Brochu** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 5:30 am

I checked yesterday and Lowes has nothing that looks like what I need. So it is inevitable that I buy some Duratex.

Now, just where........who has the cheapest? and should I buy it by the gal or by the 5 gal pal?

Fri Mar 21, 2008 8:01 am

BBDrums wrote:I checked yesterday and Lowes has nothing that looks like what I need. So it is inevitable that I buy some Duratex.

Now, just where........who has the cheapest? and should I buy it by the gal or by the 5 gal pal?

The only sources are direct from Acrytech or from Leland.

Scott Brochu · #21 Post by **Scott Brochu** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 8:44 pm

Leland it is than

You spray people....does Duratex spray through the Cambells spray gun? I use a 100.00 one from Home Depot to spray lacquer on my cabinets, but wonder if the tip is to small for Duratex.
How does it come out? smooth? Does it have any bumps after drying or do you have to roll it to create them?

WB · #22 Post by WB » Fri Mar 21, 2008 9:40 pm

BBDrums wrote:does Duratex spray through the Cambells spray gun?

I've sprayed automotive paint with those and I don't think the thick Duratex would spray thru those small tips. I haven't sprayed Duratex yet, but I think a hopper sprayer is what is normally used.

Harley · #23 Post by **Harley** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 12:10 am

Tim Ard wrote:My concern is getting the roller into the horn mouth. I'd need to find a short roller frame.

For DRs, I have a 3" wide roller and get std roller sleeves and cut the to width to suit.

You have to use a 1" brush to cut in the corners.

Bear in mind I do not use Duratex as I cannot get it here, but I do use a matte black water based paint. It requires 2 coats to look good but with te roller it takes little time.

Now I'm getting my workshop set up, I'll get a pneumatic spray gun.

LelandCrooks · #24 Post by **LelandCrooks** » Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:08 pm

WB wrote:
BBDrums wrote:does Duratex spray through the Cambells spray gun?
I've sprayed automotive paint with those and I don't think the thick Duratex would spray thru those small tips. I haven't sprayed Duratex yet, but I think a hopper sprayer is what is normally used.

Nope it won't. Duratex won't atomize in that style gun. Hopper gun is the best option for the avg diy'er. I use an airless rig, but it's also about a 2000 unit. It will let me spray a really fine finish, or the spatter that hopper gun gives. But, you can achieve the same thing with a roller first coat and then hopper gun the next.