Behringer PRO DCX-2496
Behringer PRO DCX-2496
I just bought the Behringer PRO DCX-2496
I know how to set it up for the tops
Just wondering if any one here uses this drive rack,
that could help me with a quick set up for my t48's so I can us em the week end of the 16th
im running 3 way vmono
I am using a shs 2500 watt amp on one side for the bottoms for power
here is the link for the amp
http://www.bltsound.com/index.php?crn=1 ... how_detail
my t48's are the 24 inch version with kappalite 3015 lf
just a quick settings primer would help or might help
sorry to ask so much but this drive rack is a new animal for me
any help would be appreciated
also if you need more info please let me know
Mike
I know how to set it up for the tops
Just wondering if any one here uses this drive rack,
that could help me with a quick set up for my t48's so I can us em the week end of the 16th
im running 3 way vmono
I am using a shs 2500 watt amp on one side for the bottoms for power
here is the link for the amp
http://www.bltsound.com/index.php?crn=1 ... how_detail
my t48's are the 24 inch version with kappalite 3015 lf
just a quick settings primer would help or might help
sorry to ask so much but this drive rack is a new animal for me
any help would be appreciated
also if you need more info please let me know
Mike
- SoundInMotionDJ
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If you can set it up for tops, then subs are not far behind. There is no substitute for reading the manual on the DCX. None. Read the book!
Don't get all wrapped up with the default settings (i.e. 3way mono). You can rename and use any output channel for anything you want.
First, sum your stereo inputs and use that combined signal as an input to the output channel that will drive the subs.
The starting crossover points for a T48 should be 30Hz high pass, 100Hz low pass and experiment from there.
Use the limiter on "Page 6" of the channel menu to set the limit for voltage output from the amp. Don't forget to adjust the crossover to allow the frequent you are using to set the amp gain to pass...I scratched my head for more that a minute or two trying to figure out why my 1kHz signal wasn't coming through my 120Hz low pass filter!
If you have any specific questions, just ask.
--Stan Graves
Don't get all wrapped up with the default settings (i.e. 3way mono). You can rename and use any output channel for anything you want.
First, sum your stereo inputs and use that combined signal as an input to the output channel that will drive the subs.
The starting crossover points for a T48 should be 30Hz high pass, 100Hz low pass and experiment from there.
Use the limiter on "Page 6" of the channel menu to set the limit for voltage output from the amp. Don't forget to adjust the crossover to allow the frequent you are using to set the amp gain to pass...I scratched my head for more that a minute or two trying to figure out why my 1kHz signal wasn't coming through my 120Hz low pass filter!

If you have any specific questions, just ask.
--Stan Graves
10 T39S + 10 DR200 + 1 T48
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Don't recall the setup option, but I put mine into basically a full manual mode so you control the outputs individually. Select an output channel with the buttons below the channel and use the page buttons to cycle through the configuration. Param scrolls through options on a page. Big wheel scrolls possible settings.
In a fullrange mono setup input A is likely your mono input, select output 1 source as input A, then set your crossover points on the next page. I do fullrange tops here with the low-cut at 90Hz, it'll depend on your speakers and their capability. I like it high enough in full-range that the subs are handling most of the load up to 100Hz. Set the slopes to 48db, I use Butterworth rather than linkwitz-riley.
If you're biamping tops, Output 1 & 2 are for the tops in my mind, split them with the appropriate crossover point. Do the same for Output 3 but the High cut for subs matches the low-cut on the tops and low-cut it down at 35-40Hz.
You can select a name for each output channel on the source page so you might scroll it to High, Mid, Low respectively.
Check the manual for specific setting descriptions and more description. I find the full manual mode easier than the "pick your configuration mode" since I can route what I want anywhere without consideration to how the DCX thinks it should work at the moment. Each output also works in complete isolation from the others so you could take one full-range in and even send it to 6 separate fullrange outputs with different gains, delays/phases and EQ without even using it as a crossover. Save your settings to memory so you can play around with it if the situation requires and still jump back to your basic settings.
In a fullrange mono setup input A is likely your mono input, select output 1 source as input A, then set your crossover points on the next page. I do fullrange tops here with the low-cut at 90Hz, it'll depend on your speakers and their capability. I like it high enough in full-range that the subs are handling most of the load up to 100Hz. Set the slopes to 48db, I use Butterworth rather than linkwitz-riley.
If you're biamping tops, Output 1 & 2 are for the tops in my mind, split them with the appropriate crossover point. Do the same for Output 3 but the High cut for subs matches the low-cut on the tops and low-cut it down at 35-40Hz.
You can select a name for each output channel on the source page so you might scroll it to High, Mid, Low respectively.
Check the manual for specific setting descriptions and more description. I find the full manual mode easier than the "pick your configuration mode" since I can route what I want anywhere without consideration to how the DCX thinks it should work at the moment. Each output also works in complete isolation from the others so you could take one full-range in and even send it to 6 separate fullrange outputs with different gains, delays/phases and EQ without even using it as a crossover. Save your settings to memory so you can play around with it if the situation requires and still jump back to your basic settings.
thank you for the help guys
this digital crossover is alot different than the analog crossover
i use
its just finding where the stuff is at under the hood of it
i dont have the unit yet it's going to be here monday
i downloaded the manual reading it tonight
hopefully with your help and the manual i can figure it out before the 16th
thanks again
Mike
this digital crossover is alot different than the analog crossover
i use
its just finding where the stuff is at under the hood of it
i dont have the unit yet it's going to be here monday
i downloaded the manual reading it tonight
hopefully with your help and the manual i can figure it out before the 16th
thanks again
Mike
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If you're comfortable with what a crossover does, the DCX is easy enough. I found it to be a little more intuitive than most of the analog crossovers since you can configure just what you want instead of forcing your mind around the designer's setup. There are more options to think about, but again if you know how things work anyway it's very intuitive.
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Isn't it possible to use only a DCX2496 and no DEQ2496 to flatten response of the system
One can use a laptop with appropriate hard- and software (like SMAARTLive and measurement mic) to view the RTA... The DCX has lots of EQ onboard...

BF cabs built to date:
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014
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There is plenty of eq to do all the correction you want in the DCX and use your other standalone eq for room issues when on site. When dialing in your boxes try to do it either outside away from reflective surfaces or in a dead room at low level with the speaker pointing into the long end of the room or into a curtained wall.
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It's all parametric and there's no RTA function, just an autoalignment function. You can certainly use it without. I do like having the DEQ run noise for a short period and quickly get the EQ in-line for the room. It's much faster than I would be with an RTA doing things manually, but I often have just a few seconds to set the system anyway and speed is critical to prevent annoying anyone with Pink noise for too long. Otherwise you'd primarily do it with music you know very well and a system you know very well.thijs666 wrote:Isn't it possible to use only a DCX2496 and no DEQ2496 to flatten response of the systemOne can use a laptop with appropriate hard- and software (like SMAARTLive and measurement mic) to view the RTA... The DCX has lots of EQ onboard...
With SMAART you can use virtually any source and compare it with the output of the system. You can even use the music you're playing as source material, so you wouldn't ever have to annoy people with pink noisegdougherty wrote:... to prevent annoying anyone with Pink noise for too long. Otherwise you'd primarily do it with music you know very well and a system you know very well.

BF cabs built to date:
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014
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It'd be sweet to have an autoEQ that works no matter what the source material is. I saw one a while back that embeded noise into the source material after you set the system so it could adjust the EQ based on how the audience affected room accoustics. It cost only ~$4K, but looked rather cool.thijs666 wrote:With SMAART you can use virtually any source and compare it with the output of the system. You can even use the music you're playing as source material, so you wouldn't ever have to annoy people with pink noisegdougherty wrote:... to prevent annoying anyone with Pink noise for too long. Otherwise you'd primarily do it with music you know very well and a system you know very well.
Come to think of it: Bill, aren't the filtercomponents in the DR's obsolete if you're using an EQ?? 

BF cabs built to date:
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014
2x T48 21" 3015LF; 1x T48 24" 2xBP102; 1x DR250 2510 loaded, cross firing; 4x DR200 Beta 8, melded array; 1x TT HL-10c; 2x WH Beta 8, melded 'array'; 3x AT 15" Tang Band W8-740P; 1x AT 15" JBL GTO1014
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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