I'm sure this is a bonehead question, but I don't have an answer...
I've got a "center off" DPDT switch, to use as a "none on/1 bank on/both banks on" tweeter switch.
David Carter posted a handy schematic showing the wiring.
The DPDT switch schematics I've seen (including that one) show 4 posts on one side, 2 on th other.
But the physical switch has 3 posts on each side.
How do they map?
Thanks...
Mapping DPDT switch schematic to actual switch
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David Carter
- Posts: 1824
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 7:20 am
- Location: (East) Tennessee, USA
I know that this doesn't fully answer your question, but I found a pic of a switch that is just like mine, and it has six contact points on the back. It's been a while, but I believe that I just played around with with my multimeter to test for continuity between various contact points to figure out where all my wires needed to connect.
Dave
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
Built:
- Omni 10 (S2010 + piezo array)
- 2 x DR250 (DL II 2510 + melded array)
- 2 x Titan 39 (BP102 - 14"W)
- 2 x Titan 39 (3012LF - 20"W)
- 4 x DR200 (Delta Pro 8B + melded array)
While it is hard to be specific because of the million different ways to build switches, I'll see if I can help.
Referring to the photo that David posted, the two groups of three contacts are completely separate circuits. Looking at the three contacts, the center contact is your input with the two outside contacts as your choices for outputs. I can't tell you much more than that without a link to the diagram you are referring to.
Hope that helped a little.
Jay
Referring to the photo that David posted, the two groups of three contacts are completely separate circuits. Looking at the three contacts, the center contact is your input with the two outside contacts as your choices for outputs. I can't tell you much more than that without a link to the diagram you are referring to.
Hope that helped a little.
Jay
It's just designed for 2 poles, instead of 1, that's all...
Put your "input" to the 2 center tabs... then whichever output you want, put that on the 2 tabs at one end of the switch... the other output on the 2 tabs at the other end.
You could also use this as two 1 pole switches, both at the same time, but giving different results.
When a rocker switch is thrown, usually, the internal mechanism goes in the opposite direction of the switch handle. Meaning, if the output on the bottom 2 tabs is to be engaged, more than likely the switch will have to be in the "up" position.
Put your "input" to the 2 center tabs... then whichever output you want, put that on the 2 tabs at one end of the switch... the other output on the 2 tabs at the other end.
You could also use this as two 1 pole switches, both at the same time, but giving different results.
When a rocker switch is thrown, usually, the internal mechanism goes in the opposite direction of the switch handle. Meaning, if the output on the bottom 2 tabs is to be engaged, more than likely the switch will have to be in the "up" position.