Duratex...

Message

sddj · #1 Post by **sddj** » Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:00 am

This stuff is neat! Goes on easy with a roller, dries almost instantly, well ok, about an hour. Hardens in a day or so, at the most.

The downside that I noticed... it's "slick". Very low coefficient of friction once it's dried on the cabinet. Although it looks good, even when it's got multiple coats and it's got an "orange peel", rougher texture, anything you place on it still slides easily.

My concern is when we pack the trailers. Our subs are always on the bottom (since they are the biggest) and many tour cases set on top, these things would slide right off the Tuba's.

So I've decided to coat the cabs with Duratex, then carpet them over. It acts almost like a primer and the adhesive doesn't absorb in when sprayed, giving the contact of the carpet more "stick", while saving on Super 77 spray.

mcrracer · #2 Post by **mcrracer** » Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:39 am

There are many less expensive paints you could use for primer rather than Duratex. It would be a shame to cover a beautiful Duratex finish with carpet. One or the other. Then on the other hand if you just have money to burn...
Just a thought.

Art Coates · #3 Post by **Art Coates** » Fri Aug 04, 2006 5:16 pm

I'm thinking duratex is way too expensive to use for primer. And I'm not saying this is the best solution either, but in days gone by I have built tolex cabinets and used regular carpenters wood glue as primer. Just roll it on. Seals the wood, and makes a nice rough surface for gluing the tolex/carpet to.

Frankenspeakers · #4 Post by **Frankenspeakers** » Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:11 pm

If slipping speakers is the issue, I would suggest that you get some of the non-slip shelf liner from costco or your favorite hardware store. (Its the stuff that looks like a sheet of little rubber beads) It should keep your load from shifting and if you put stuff on top of you subs then put a sheet between the sub and your stuff, and it will stay put. best stuff I know of for keeping things put.

sddj · #5 Post by **sddj** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 1:27 am

Just to note... I'm not intending to buy Duratex, just to prime... I figure I bought a gallon of it to try... so I might as well use it as a primer... since it's black, if long term the black carpet rips... the black duratex under it won't show Birch/Okoume white wood through...

I'd have to deal with the slip on stage too, not just in packing ... just don't need the extra hassle. Really never considered it's slip coefficient...and I do luv the way it rolls on and dries.

Sydney · #6 Post by **Sydney** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 7:25 am

I've not had the slickness problem mentioned w Duratex.
Different types of sponges & pads can modify the finish to some extent.
I found I can "pull" the Duartex for a rougher surface w sponges and foam pads - sort of a pat and pull - like picking lint off a sweater w a lint roller.
You might also try the rubbery sheet that go under rugs on smooth floors. Probably similar to shelf liner mentioned.
These work amazingly well and are very cheap @ dollar stores
I prime ALL bare wood w poly like MiniWax. It's vary compatible w urethane glues.
I think the importance of treating all bare wood can not understated
Priming wood helps dampen resonance - especially ply, which tends to ring anyway.
In high humidty areas I've found black mold and mildew inside untreated wood cabinets. Warping is minimized by covering open wood and any liquid attacks won't soak in and stink.
More experience - Rancid cheap beer, mouse urine, don't make the wood smell good. I don't use the $4 yd cabinet carpet because it is absorbant to some extent and will retain that delightfull bar stank.
Plus cats love to work their claws on it (probably looking for the mouse living in Reflex box)
One particlular rodent built a nest inside. The little bastard traveled up a 2 inch port w a 90 elbow that bent upward The rattle I heard was the 2 cups of dog food inside the cabinet. All within a month of down storage time.
Hurray! No quarter in a horn.

#7 Post by **Bill Fitzmaurice** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 8:39 am

sddj wrote:I'd have to deal with the slip on stage too, not just in packing ... just don't need the extra hassle. Really never considered it's slip coefficient...and I do luv the way it rolls on and dries.

On-stage slip is easily controlled, just have rubber feet on all your cabs. At a buck apiece they're cheap protection. Packing slip should also be a non-issue. If you care for your cabs you'll use blankets or some other protection between cabs. If you really care for your cabs you'll have travel covers made for them, and if you really really care for your cabs they'll have road cases.

Les Webb · #8 Post by **Les Webb** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 8:41 pm

"Dry rolling", rolling paint on with very little paint on the roller and rolling it until it is almost dry, will leave you the finish you desire. It takes a little practice to become consistent with it but it will work.

OTOH I've been meaning to call Acrytech and ask them if non-slip additives will be ok to use with Duratex. Just haven't got roundtuit.

Les

mcrracer · #9 Post by **mcrracer** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 8:45 pm

Nevr saw a roundtuit before although I do have a squaretuit!!!:}

Frankenspeakers · Sat Aug 05, 2006 11:37 pm

Sydney wrote: In high humidty areas I've found black mold and mildew inside untreated wood cabinets. Warping is minimized by covering open wood and any liquid attacks won't soak in and stink.
More experience - Rancid cheap beer, mouse urine, don't make the wood smell good. ...
Plus cats love to work their claws on it (probably looking for the mouse living in Reflex box).

A contributing factor to my building a TT is that the bleepin cats love to sharpen their claws on the carpet covering the old sub, and the wife's little darling likes to advertise her availability on the same carpet now-uncovered sub cabinet... and the unkindest cut to direct radiator subs was when I dusted the cat hair and carpet shreds off the cones and found tokens of feline appreciation on the VC covers

I'm contemplating revenge in the form of (after installation of new TT) letting the cats get used to the new 'thing' and when said cats get curious enough to investamigate the new hidey hole... (the T. Rex roar or the Pvt Ryan's D-Day on the sun-kissed beaches of Normandy seem aptly appropriate for some reason)

Just the thought warms the cockles of my heart...

bogie · #11 Post by **bogie** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:07 am

I've got a buddy with some prehistoric cerwin vegas.

Ported.

And Phlame Linear 700s...

He had a cat get into one of the CVs...

That cat hasn't been the same since...

jcwaugh · #12 Post by **jcwaugh** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:02 pm

Has anyone found an effective way to apply this with a spray applicator, ie undercoating gun or texture gun?

Sydney · #13 Post by **Sydney** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:24 am

Apparently Bill & others use a Drywall Hopper Gun
Price $50 - $150 (recent Harbor Freight flyer had one for < $30 ).
Bill sez expect to use 2x the amount of Duratex over hand application.
Sounds great if you produce many cabs or did drywall texture jobs anyway

Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:38 am

The stuff is so good that I just recoated my ancient (1938) garage door with DuraTex, white, instead of replacing it. One gallon did the job, applied witha hopper gun, total time less than 1 hour, total saved about $300 over the cost of a new door.

Sydney · #15 Post by **Sydney** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 8:00 am

Morning Bill,
Thought about getting a Porter cable 6 gal Pancake Air Compressor.
For use: general inflating, brad nailer, air brush and yes maybe a hopper gun.
What do you think?
Thanks