Green Alternative to PL construction adhesive?

[gerryc]

The more I read, the more I'm leery about using PL because of the potential mess, fumes and cleanup with more noxious chemicals (mineral spirits, acetone). I understand the need for really strong adhesive that can expand and fill gaps to ensure that the cabinet is well sealed, but I had to believe there was a more "friendly" alternative. Not sure if anyone posted anything on this, so forgive me if it has already been discussed (didn't turn up on any forum searches, but I could have missed something), but has anyone seen this product from TiteBond? It looks like it's relatively new, called "GREENchoice Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive"

http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP ... sNewTB.asp

Seems to have all the desired characteristics of a standard urethane construction adhesive (including gap filling) but without the mess and fumes. I'm sure something has to give, maybe raw strength, but it seems like it could be a viable option to try.

[gerryc]

Oops. Just checked the link doesn't quite work correctly. Go to www.titebond.com and look for the GREENchoice Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive.

[kesslari]

They seem to have a "Green" Polyurethane Construction Adhesive.
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP ... ?prodcat=2
Interesting stuff. I'll be curious to see what people with experience think.

[MYork]

The more I read, the more I'm leery about using PL because of the potential mess, fumes and cleanup with more noxious chemicals (mineral spirits, acetone).

Either I've inhaled so many fumes I can't smell anymore, or the PL I use doesn't emit noxious fumes. The stuff is great. Sure, it still manages to get on my fingers , and takes days to go away, but I don't use any solvents. I wipe off the stuff immediately, then wash my hands, and the rest goes away after two days. MY

[SoundInMotionDJ]

PL has no/low fumes. I don't even notice a smell with PL. I stopped wearing gloves when I was working with PL because I could not feel when I got a little bit on my hands and it wound up getting everywhere.

Cleanup was as simple as wiping off all the excess with a paper towel, and using a little mineral spirits on a paper towel to wipe my hands off at the end of the build session.

It was no worse than cleaning up after using oil paint.

--Stan Graves

[mloretitsch]

http://stickwithpl.com/pdf/PL%20Premium%20msds.pdf

It contains Isocyanates like most cool paint and adhesives. Repeated exposure causes LOTS of nasties.

Personally I like to clean mine up with MEK right before gluing up my tweeter arrays. I also drive a carb'd car that gets 10MPG on a really good day with no converter while smoking Camel non-filters (actually I quit a few years ago...I can almost breathe going up steps again!)

It's a calculated risk
-Matt

[Bob G]

Would latex medical gloves work in this case? Does PL react with latex?

[mloretitsch]

Would latex medical gloves work in this case? Does PL react with latex?

I used the cheap vinyl gloves..worked just fine. Wood splinters and nail heads really eat up gloves though

[SoundInMotionDJ]

I keep a big supply of nitrile gloves in the shop - almost nothing will get through those. The problem is that when you are working with PL, it is very easy to get a little dab on your hand and not feel it through the gloves. So, everything you touch gets Pl on it. It's very messy.

In the end, I found it to be easier and less messy to my tools to work without gloves.

--Stan Graves

[mloretitsch]

In the end, I found it to be easier and less messy to my tools to work without gloves.

--Stan Graves

+1 My poor dewalt drill has some serious brown on it! So does my square and straight edge

[AntonZ]

My electric brad nailer got glue all over on it's first use. I don't care as long as it still works. I don't buy tools for their resale value. They will be used, abused and covered with whatever is necessary to get the job done. Better have lots of glue on the brad nailer than a tiny bit of isowhatever in my body.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

The more I read, the more I'm leery about using PL because of the potential mess, fumes and cleanup with more noxious chemicals (mineral spirits, acetone).

Not a problem. Use gloves to keep the glue off your hands, and as for cleanup of tools etc. let the glue dry and then remove it with a chisel. I don't use any solvents in my shop, there's just no need.

[kesslari]

Back to what I think was the original question - does this Titebond "Green" alternative appear to be a reasonable choice for speaker cabinet construction?

[Tim A]

Reading their info, I'd say no as it doesn't expand. Expansion is one of the single most imprtant features of PL. Every joint must be absolutely sealed. In their write up they say 'minimal shrinkage'. Shrinkage is exactly the opposite of what we (and most men!) want.

Also interesting to read their cleanup recommendations. Scrape off the dried stuff, use mineral spirits on the wet stuff.

[gerryc]

Reading their info, I'd say no as it doesn't expand. Expansion is one of the single most imprtant features of PL. Every joint must be absolutely sealed. In their write up they say 'minimal shrinkage'. Shrinkage is exactly the opposite of what we (and most men!) want.

Also interesting to read their cleanup recommendations. Scrape off the dried stuff, use mineral spirits on the wet stuff.

Finally found the correct link:

http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP ... ?prodcat=2

Are you looking at the same product that I am? This says that it "...fills gaps and irregularities". Isn't that what is meant by being able to expand to fill gaps or does that mean something else?