Omni 15 sub
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Omni 15 sub
I built an Omni 15 as a sub only unit and I’m about to build a second. Is the dampening material necessary when there’s no other drivers in the unit?
Thanks.
Thanks.
From what I understand, damping material is never used in subs. The wave length is too long to even see it. The damping is required more for the mid frequencies.
You may be the first to actually have built these for sub only use, though there has been a lot of talk about it. Interested in your impressions when your're done.
You may be the first to actually have built these for sub only use, though there has been a lot of talk about it. Interested in your impressions when your're done.
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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The deciding factor to go with this cab was that I had a couple of Carvin PS15 speakers already looking for a home.Are you using the 3015LF driver in them? Are you using the "classic" design, the TallBoy, or an alternate size/shape? I'm anxious to hear how they perform.WB wrote:You may be the first to actually have built these for sub only use, though there has been a lot of talk about it. Interested in your impressions when your're done.
(Fs 36.3, Vas 9.515, Qts 0.434, Qms 5.77, Qes 0.469 SPL db/w 96.3 RMS 500W)
The only thing that I changed was to center the driver, and use two horn braces - one each side of the speaker opening.
I built the standard one because the tall boy was physically too big for my needs. I've finished the first one - but for the fittings - that I'm waiting to arrive from parts express. I can't give you any objective feedback as I don't have a way to measure it. I've fired it up full range with a bass guitar played through it - and my subjective reaction was very good. Part of my parts express order is an active cross-over – so I can check it out and give you better feedback if you like to hear this stuff. I’ll be driving two of them with a 1.2KW Stewart World AMP and they’ll be used for live rock music. At some point I'll probably get an equalizer/analyzer and I'll take some readings and let you know.
Just curious what you will eventually use for tops, and what crossover frequency you plan on using? I'm assuming this is for electric bass amplification for a rock band. Glad to hear you like it so far.Blackadder wrote:I've fired it up full range with a bass guitar played through it - and my subjective reaction was very good. Part of my parts express order is an active cross-over – so I can check it out and give you better feedback if you like to hear this stuff.
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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- Location: Oregon
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 5:53 pm
- Location: Oregon
It's for the band's PA. We mic the Kit. The existing PA is twin 15's and a horn on each side. I was going to try the x-over at between 75 and 100 and see how it goes.WB wrote:Just curious what you will eventually use for tops, and what crossover frequency you plan on using? I'm assuming this is for electric bass amplification for a rock band. Glad to hear you like it so far.
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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- Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:59 pm
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OK - I've ordered a couple of 3015LF's.Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Ouch. 1.8mm limits you to about 20 watts input through much of the cabs range. I'd dump those suckers yesterday, if not the day before.Blackadder wrote:
It's only 1.8mm.
As this is a sub only unit - should I have the opening at the top or the bottom? Does it make any difference?
- Bill Fitzmaurice
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It won't make much difference, but the bottom should be just a bit better, especially in the upper end of the bandwidth.Blackadder wrote:OK - I've ordered a couple of 3015LF's.Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Ouch. 1.8mm limits you to about 20 watts input through much of the cabs range. I'd dump those suckers yesterday, if not the day before.Blackadder wrote:
It's only 1.8mm.
As this is a sub only unit - should I have the opening at the top or the bottom? Does it make any difference?