Hiding tweeter array joints

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.
Post Reply
Message
Author
DaveK
Posts: 735
Joined: Tue Dec 05, 2006 9:51 pm
Location: Sacramento CA

Hiding tweeter array joints

#1 Post by DaveK »

I'm making my first tweeter array and having trouble getting the glue joints between the units to disappear. Even after sanding I can still where the joint is. Does anybody know a way to make them look just like the surrounding plastic, or is that simply not possible?

User avatar
Harley
Posts: 5758
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:45 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder

Re: Hiding tweeter array joints

#2 Post by Harley »

DaveK wrote:I'm making my first tweeter array and having trouble getting the glue joints between the units to disappear. Even after sanding I can still where the joint is. Does anybody know a way to make them look just like the surrounding plastic, or is that simply not possible?
Because I could not get ABS glue here, I used a Holdfast product ( sorry don't have the container here to identify it as my gear is stored at present ) which was black and very ruberry.

It required you to prepare the joints by applying a very smelly/fumey pertrochemical substance, leave for 15 mins and then apply the rubbery glue from the tube.

The bond when cured was superb and being black and rubbery, when you trimmed the dags with a knife you could hardly see the joints.

Here it is the black version of ----> http://www.holdfast.co.nz/resources/pdf ... asheet.pdf
ImageSemi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.

User avatar
LelandCrooks
Posts: 7242
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
Contact:

#3 Post by LelandCrooks »

Giving away my secrets here. Automotive glazing putty. Used to fill pinholes in bondo. Thin, sets incredibly fast. 200-400 grit sandpaper, flat black paint or duratex after.

http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-Glazing-Spo ... B0002JM8OK
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

User avatar
Tim A
Posts: 3663
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: SE Michigan, Licensed BF Builder

#4 Post by Tim A »

Or you could do it the way I do: Not worry about it. Get the joints flush when you glue them, they'll dissappear 10' from the cab.

The 200 was done in that manner, the 250 was trimmed, sanded, painted. Not a lot of difference.

Image

User avatar
LelandCrooks
Posts: 7242
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
Contact:

#5 Post by LelandCrooks »

What me worry?

For me I don't. On customers cabs I try to make them seamless. If I ever get the time to sort grill suppliers out it will become moot.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

User avatar
jswingchun
Posts: 1073
Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:43 am
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Contact:

#6 Post by jswingchun »

LelandCrooks wrote:If I ever get the time to sort grill suppliers out it will become moot.
If you ever sort out grill suppliers and sell pre-made grills on your site you are going to be a very popular guy!

Mikey
Posts: 3756
Joined: Sat May 13, 2006 8:05 am
Location: Pahrump, Nevada, USA

#7 Post by Mikey »

Just an OT observation ... seeing the DR200 and the DR250 side-by-side really gives some perspective. In text, a couple inches of difference in dimensions doesn't seem like much.

Post Reply