brad nailer
brad nailer
hey guys...starting to assemble first batch of dr280's and will also be doing some titan 48's......just looking to get some feedback on the use of a brad nailer...good or bad experiences...size brads, etc....thanx
- LelandCrooks
- Posts: 7242
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
- Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
- Contact:
18ga, up to 2". If you don't use them hard the imports are ok. If you do lots invest in a Senco, Bostich, Porter Cable, Hitachi.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com
http://www.speakerhardware.com
I have no compressor and hauling a compressor upstairs in the house to the room where I build is not very practical either. So I bought myself an electric brad nailer. Not as flexible and powerful as most air driven guns, it does the job just fine for me. I use 1/2" brads, no idea what gauge, but it is a great addition to the BFM-toolbox.
Be careful, nails blasting through panels, not firing straight into a panel so the nail comes out on one side of the underlying panel. Better have 10 brads in the gun than one in the fingers.
Be careful, nails blasting through panels, not firing straight into a panel so the nail comes out on one side of the underlying panel. Better have 10 brads in the gun than one in the fingers.
Re: brad nailer
Handy time saver. Won't pull pieces together, but keeps parts from slipping around as you clamp. 1 1/4" brads for 1/2 plywood works well.yahtzee wrote:...just looking to get some feedback on the use of a brad nailer...
- SoundInMotionDJ
- Posts: 1750
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 1:31 pm
- Location: DFW, Texas
- Contact:
The pancake compressors are downright portable, and provide more than enough air for a nailer.AntonZ wrote:I have no compressor and hauling a compressor upstairs in the house to the room where I build is not very practical either.
If you need/want/buy a bigger compressor try running just the hose upstairs during building. I put down 650sqft of wood floor with a nailer that was on the end of 150' of hose...a hose reel is a great investment for times like that.
--Stan Graves
10 T39S + 10 DR200 + 1 T48
-
- Posts: 2623
- Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:13 am
- Location: Denver, CO
- Contact:
If you fancy yourself a handyman planning to do things like trimwork, etc or build a bunch of these over time get a decent nailer IMO. Go 18ga 1" or longer. Most 18ga nailers don't go longer than 1.25" Any of the big brands are going to be fine, Bostich, Dewalt, Senco, Paslode, Porter Cable, Hitachi are the major brands you'll find at the big stores. You can often find a combo kit with a lightweight compressor for not too much. I see the Porter cable setups at HD all the time for around $200.
All brands have good guns and entry level. The good ones go longer. My Craftsman goes from 5/8"-2 1/4".gdougherty wrote: Most 18ga nailers don't go longer than 1.25" Any of the big brands are going to be fine, Bostich, Dewalt, Senco, Paslode, Porter Cable, Hitachi are the major brands you'll find at the big stores.
- Harley
- Posts: 5758
- Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 2:45 pm
- Location: Christchurch, New Zealand - Authorised BFM Cab Builder
Re: brad nailer
So true - screws are a really good "clamp", but the important thing when nailing is to never nail perpendicular, always at a slight angle and each time reverse the angle. That way the nails will be less prone to pulling out if there's any stress on the parts.WB wrote:....Won't pull pieces together, but keeps parts from slipping around as you clamp.....
Re: brad nailer
Yes, this is good to do when already clamped up.Harley wrote:the important thing when nailing is to never nail perpendicular, always at a slight angle and each time reverse the angle
If nailing before clamping though, best to nail straight, less possible side shifting as the nails act like guide pins. Also clamps don't have to overcome the angled nails.