Tim Ard wrote:The shorter the span, the stronger it'd be. Make it only wide enough for the widest cabs you'll be using. In this case, 24" + an inch each side for clearance.
I'd been thinking to give myself a little swing room in the event it's placed on a slight incline so cabs don't hit the sides at top. Four inches wouldn't make that much a difference, would it?
Tim Ard wrote:Find some locking braces like those used on a table leg, only longer. Hinge each pair of legs together at the top. Then each side would fold up nice and neat, less assembly/tear down time.
Conceptually I like the idea, however I was going for maximum durability. I suppose you could have the legs hinged on a piece that mounts the top bracket, but I'd still be worried about long term strength.
Tim Ard wrote:Or even chains, criss-crossed from leg to leg. All of the weight would be pushing out anyway. That would take a test try though.
Was thinking the cross bars if mounted to the bottom of the legs at a 90 could help distribute weight and negate the need for some sort of foot-type platform to keep it from sinking into the ground outdoors. Like the simplicity of the chains though, certainly less weight... Less weight is good... But then you need some type of foot again...
Tim Ard wrote:You can buy 1,000 lb capacity boat winches for about $20. Mount one on one of the legs and run the cable to a pulley on top.
Perfect, I like very much. Bolt it onto a leg I think...
Tim Ard wrote:Think in terms of steel tubing. Pipe that size would be awfully heavy.
I hadn't quite figured out what to use as material. Conduit type piping is light, but correspondingly seems weak. I could put up with a bit of weight if it meant the whole thing would be quite strong. I think... I'm not sure what you're thinking of for steel tubing. I'd only been thinking in terms of stuff I could find or use as the basis of fabrication from a local HD type store.
Tim Ard wrote:Most people don't have the capacity to haul something 16' long, so multiple sections, or better yet, telescoping sections would be a must. If you went with multiple sections you'd need a very solid coupler. I would not trust pipe threads with a side-load like that.
I'd been thinking the legs on the side would be two part, one part above the brace, and legs extending down from there. These could be built in 8' sections, matches the 8' crossbraces across the bottom and gives 8-10 parts that are all interchangeable, less hasle during assembly. Connections I'd imagined being a close fit into a sleeve at the joins with pins and then bolts to apply pressure like with traditional tripod speaker workings.
Tim Ard wrote:Also, 16 feet is really high. For stability you'd want at least a 1 on 3 ratio for leg stance. Figure a minimum of 5' w x 5' d for the legs with a 15' tall stand. Wider would be better.
Indeed, I was actually thinking an 8'x8' base dimension for the 16' high version. It's a fair amount of space, but that's 4' from center in all directions, only 3' more in each direction than the speakers themselves and in outdoor or indoor situations calling for a rig of this type the space could probably be spared.