Duratex coverage

[chopperguy99]

The wallyworld stuff does have a really nasty smell. If I got some duratex, could I go over the duplicolor stuff? I plan on building 2 more T-48's, and want them to all look the same.

[Mark Coward]

The wallyworld stuff does have a really nasty smell. If I got some duratex, could I go over the duplicolor stuff? I plan on building 2 more T-48's, and want them to all look the same.

I'm not certain, but I suspect not because I think the duplicolor is oil based. If it's like house paint, you can paint over a water base with oil but not vice-versa.

[fender3x]

The wallyworld stuff does have a really nasty smell. If I got some duratex, could I go over the duplicolor stuff? I plan on building 2 more T-48's, and want them to all look the same.

You could try it on a small swatch. I can tell you that once it dries, duratex is generally there to stay. You might ask at the company. They are very responsive to email or phone. In any case, there does not seem to be much price advantage to using anything else to paint with...unless you need less than a gallon.

[Mikey]

Chopperguy, if you already have used the WallyWorld stuff on some cabinets and you want all of your cabinets to look the same, use the same stuff when you do more cabinets, using the same application method. If you try layering over different products, especially if one is oil and one is latex, you could have problems.

[chopperguy99]

Thanks. I will give them a call and see what they have to say. I will post their reply in case anyone else is in a similar situation.

[fender3x]

If you try layering over different products, especially if one is oil and one is latex

I read the can on duracolor at my local autoparts store, and then did a little checking... I don't understand the chemistry well, Duratex is an acrylic and dries VERY hard. Duplicolor is a vinyl polimer...and I am not sure how it dries...but if hard (as opposed to a little "rubbery") they may be similar since vinyls are related to acrylics. On the other hand, I couldn't find anything on the can that talked about cleanup...which would partially answer Mikey's question. How do you clean it up?

I also saw an epoxy roll-on bedliner made by Bondo. Now that stuff is likely to dry hard. But it also looks harder to apply since you have to add catalyzing agent...and then you need to apply it fast before it hardens.

So far, everything looks somewhere between close to the same price as duratex to about 2x as expensive. There may be coverings that are harder or more wear-resistant, but duratex is also easy to apply, easy to clean up and easy to touch up.

I did not find an answer to the question about whether Duratex can be applied over the top of Duracolor. The duracolor can, on the other hand says not to put it on top of other paint.

Being inherently cheap, I think it would be cool to find a cheaper alternative to duratex...but until the Aldcroft people start selling their product here in the US, we may be SOL Hard to find anything that maximizes good/cheap/easy as well as duratex!

[David Carter]

Being inherently cheap, I think it would be cool to find a cheaper alternative to duratex...but until the Aldcroft people start selling their product here in the US, we may be SOL Hard to find anything that maximizes good/cheap/easy as well as duratex!

Thanks for the good summary. I, too, am inherently cheap, so this has been a very interesting discussion. I'm going to start a couple of DR250's soon, and I've been debating whether to buy the Duratex or do carpet like I did with my Omni 10. The main sticking point in my mind has been cost, but I think I've pretty much overcome that argument with my desire to be able to compare a carpeted cab to painted/textured one.

[AntonZ]

Being inherently cheap, I think it would be cool to find a cheaper alternative to duratex...but until the Aldcroft people start selling their product here in the US, we may be SOL

At least one thing that's cheaper over here. Everything else is the other way around. Drivers, BB, cabinet hardware, tools are all harder to come by and cost more. Don't get me started on PL alternatives. Cheapest by far that I found here is €8 per tube, and there is only one shop that sells it. Second best alternative costs €14 per tube. Just buy Duratex and be happy with the prices you guys pay for all other materials, not to mention musical instruments, amps and what have you.

[fender3x]

At least one thing that's cheaper over here. Everything else is the other way around. Drivers, BB, cabinet hardware, tools are all harder to come by and cost more. Don't get me started on PL alternatives. Cheapest by far that I found here is €8 per tube, and there is only one shop that sells it. Second best alternative costs €14 per tube. Just buy Duratex and be happy with the prices you guys pay for all other materials, not to mention musical instruments, amps and what have you.

Well there is at least one other thing that you guys get a LOT cheaper than we do: dollars! I have some payments that I make in Euros...and they have gone up more than 40% since you guys converted.

Hmmm..... This might make an interesting business opportunity for Leland...perhaps you could add import/export to the list of services at speakerhardware.com

I know a German woman here who makes a living selling products that are cheap here to Europeans in an Ebay business....

[LelandCrooks]

Done. Overseas shipping is enabled. It's expensive. The USPS revamped their intl shipping a couple of months back and the cheap alternative methods disappeared.

I have some xovers to send to NZ that will be $35. For about a 2lb package.