No more leaking air through your nuts?

[Chris_Allen]

I found these on Screwfix today. They are insert nuts.



I thought I could mount them to the underside of the driver spacer and not drill a hole in the baffle.

I drilled some 8mm holes in a (miscut!) spacer



And then mounted the insert nuts



The nuts fall flush to the bottom of the spacer



...but stick out slightly on the top. They were 13mm insert nuts in 12mm ply. It doesn't matter due to the foam on the speaker.



Mounting the speaker was just the same



and there is plenty of play with the depth of the bolt



This allows me to glue the spacer directly to the baffle without any risks of air leaks, but of course it doesn't secure the spacer to the baffle with anything other than glue.

Chris.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

OK with neo and lightweight ceramic drivers, I wouldn't trust them with anything over 20 pounds.

[DJPhatman]

Use 'em with 12 mm longer screws and install them in the baffle. Would still give a nice clean look.

[DAVID_L_PERRY]

I did the same thing with t nuts on another build.....I fitted the t nuts to the baffle spacer (I had to recess where the t nut sat into the wood) and I also drilled part way into the main baffle to allow the mounting bolts to pass through the t nuts but not through the baffle. I then screwed and glued the baffle spacer to the main baffle sandwiching in the t nuts.

It worked a treat, but to be honest I have not had any problems with air leaking from T nuts locations on other standard builds (yet..... )

Dave

[LelandCrooks]

I did the same thing with t nuts on another build.....I fitted the t nuts to the baffle spacer (I had to recess where the t nut sat into the wood) and I also drilled part way into the main baffle to allow the mounting bolts to pass through the t nuts but not through the baffle. I then screwed and glued the baffle spacer to the main baffle sandwiching in the t nuts.

Dave

The problem with that is a bad tee nut. Utter destruction to replace if one ever gets cross threaded, or spins loose. I've done a couple of cabs that way, and since stopped, because of that potential.

[gdougherty]

Leland, your advice then is not to glue the baffle spacer down?

[LelandCrooks]

Put the tee nuts on the baffle, glue the spacer down, use longer screws. Glue the tee nuts in with a dab of epoxy, use blue locktite and lockwashers on the screws. No leaks, no vibrating out.

[bgavin]

Put the tee nuts on the baffle, glue the spacer down, use longer screws. Glue the tee nuts in with a dab of epoxy, use blue locktite and lockwashers on the screws. No leaks, no vibrating out.

I always use Blue Loctite and lockwashers, never have a problem with a screw backing out.

My T39 is the first project with a baffle spacer. I used PL to glue the spacer to the baffle, and regular T-nuts on the reverse side. Each has a dab of PL to hold it in place.

ALWAYS check every one of your T-nuts with its associated bolt before using it. No exception. You do not want a dud T-nut in place, just by failing to check it first.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I install Tnuts on the back side of the spacer, countersunk, with 5/16" holes in the baffle to allow the bolts to pass through it. Thus the nuts can't be pushed out. The downside is that the nuts can't be replaced either, so you have to be absolutely sure of their aligment and proper functioning before glueing it up. I've also found that the better grade 6 prong Tnuts work much better then the four prong, about equal to hurricane nuts.

[vlad335]

Is this a cause of air leaks?.... Air leaking through the bolt holes or is this over the top?

Just did my baffle for the first T-48 last night. Used 10-32 Hurricane nuts on the baffle side away from the speaker. A little Gorilla glue on each. Plan to use 2" 10-32 machine screws with a washer and lock washer on them plus Locktite on the threads.

Should be OK right?