First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60

[Joman116]

Started using PL adhesive to secure the retaining blocks on the baffle. For some reason I decided to make it more difficult for myself and use clamps instead of drywall screws to temporary hold them together. I did four of them for now, I'll use drywall screws for the remaining four. The finished t60 will be using recex screws in this area, as recommended by Leland from speaker hardware.

Yep everyone was right this PL premium adhesive is very Goopy. Need to make sure my work area is clear.

Below I put a picture of how I'm trying to save the pl premium. I recall that Seth recommended putting a nail in and then wrapping it with aluminum foil. After I install all of the retaining blocks I'll be away for 2 weeks so I need to make sure the pl premium is good when I return.

1000115714.jpg

1000115713.jpg

[Seth]

You're probably going to want to use something a little more air tight than foil. I usually cut off a finger from a disposable glove and wrap it tightly with masking tape. But there's a few methods people use that seem to work. If you stick with the tin foil and nail, let us know how it fares.

Hope you enjoy yourself, wherever you're headed for the next couple weeks!

[Joman116]

You're probably going to want to use something a little more air tight than foil. I usually cut off a finger from a disposable glove and wrap it tightly with masking tape. But there's a few methods people use that seem to work. If you stick with the tin foil and nail, let us know how it fares.

Hope you enjoy yourself, wherever you're headed for the next couple weeks!

You don't need to tell me twice, better be safe than sorry!

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away. I don't have a proper method to use a clamp to keep both pieces together and then drive the screw. I believe the purpose of the screw is just to keep the two pieces static. I'm just going to continue with the clamp only method and so far appears to be working. I plan on wrapping up the retention blocks tomorrow.

1000115732.jpg

[Tom Smit]

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.

Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.

[Joman116]

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.

Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.

Predrill a pilot hole in the block as well?
Didn't think of that...will attempt that tomorrow.

But I mean, using just clamps is ok, isn't it? I ensure the orientation is OK..

[Marflinger]

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.

Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.

One <ddition to this, happened here: take the screws out when pl is set after 2 hours or so.
I left mine in until cab was finished, and i bsheared off the heads from some of them when i tried to remove them. The pl grabs quite good when it is fully set after a few days...
(I had very tiny screws, bigger ones may be fine)

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.

Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.

Predrill a pilot hole in the block as well?
Didn't think of that...will attempt that tomorrow.

But I mean, using just clamps is ok, isn't it? I ensure the orientation is OK..

Clamps are fine as well.
just slippery situation.
Predrilling only the baffle, not the block

[Joman116]

So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.

Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.

One <ddition to this, happened here: take the screws out when pl is set after 2 hours or so.
I left mine in until cab was finished, and i bsheared off the heads from some of them when i tried to remove them. The pl grabs quite good when it is fully set after a few days...
(I had very tiny screws, bigger ones may be fine)

Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.

Predrill a pilot hole in the block as well?
Didn't think of that...will attempt that tomorrow.

But I mean, using just clamps is ok, isn't it? I ensure the orientation is OK..

Clamps are fine as well.
just slippery situation.
Predrilling only the baffle, not the block

I appreciate the input. Was able to deal with the slipperiness and get them a line accordingly. Below picture looking bottom up for your pleasure

1000115733.jpg

[Marflinger]

I appreciate the input. Was able to deal with the slipperiness and get them a line accordingly. Below picture looking bottom up for your pleasure 😂

Looking good :)

I did the last baffle just putting all the blocks on it, and then placing a lot of weight above it with a wider panel. So not single clamping, just pressing all at once down.
A bit tricky to get all the blocks in the right orientation, but sufficient as the blocks will be pulled when driver is mounted, so the force is not fighting against the glue part later. It is just the fixing of the orientation for later, and to avoid the screw pushing it away when mounting the driver.

[Joman116]

Glued and clamped the last two retaining blocks for the baffle today. Enjoy the bottoms up Pic. This will be the last of it till I return in two weeks. Man the Pl premium is absolutely BEAST...

1000115765.jpg

[Joman116]

Well here is a Pic of the baffle retaining blocks all complete. More progress in two weeks. That'll be panel installation time!

1000116167.jpg

[Seth]

I hope I'm wrong, but a few of them appear as though they may be too far out from the ledge. Driver screw holes are pretty close to the cutout diameter. I'd trial fit and screw down the driver before installing that panel, just to make sure the screws actually go into the retention blocks. Not a huge deal if you have to redo them, but would be much more difficult once it's all assembled

[Marflinger]

I hope I'm wrong, but a few of them appear as though they may be too far out from the ledge. Driver screw holes are pretty close to the cutout diameter. I'd trial fit and screw down the driver before installing that panel, just to make sure the screws actually go into the retention blocks. Not a huge deal if you have to redo them, but would be much more difficult once it's all assembled

Sure a good thing to test before assembling, but here it looks good as in far away enough:

download/file.php?id=19999&mode=view

[Joman116]

I hope I'm wrong, but a few of them appear as though they may be too far out from the ledge. Driver screw holes are pretty close to the cutout diameter. I'd trial fit and screw down the driver before installing that panel, just to make sure the screws actually go into the retention blocks. Not a huge deal if you have to redo them, but would be much more difficult once it's all assembled

I hope I'm wrong, but a few of them appear as though they may be too far out from the ledge. Driver screw holes are pretty close to the cutout diameter. I'd trial fit and screw down the driver before installing that panel, just to make sure the screws actually go into the retention blocks. Not a huge deal if you have to redo them, but would be much more difficult once it's all assembled

Sure a good thing to test before assembling, but here it looks good as in far away enough:

download/file.php?id=19999&mode=view

I really appreciate the observation guys. Yes, once they cured I had a similar observation and I checked visually again and appears to be fine. I will 100% be doing a driver fit test, driving the RECEX screws in, before adding panels, forgot to mention that.

[Tom Smit]

I will 100% be doing a driver fit test, driving the RECEX screws in, before adding panels, forgot to mention that.

Predrill the screw holes in the blocks first, before driving the screws in, okay?

[Joman116]

I will 100% be doing a driver fit test, driving the RECEX screws in, before adding panels, forgot to mention that.

Predrill the screw holes in the blocks first, before driving the screws in, okay?

Got it.