First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60

[Joman116]

Finally finished all the rough cuts.

In the plans it had stated to do all the width cuts together so the fence would be the same distance. Unfortunately I wasn't able to do that with the way cut optimizer planned my cuts. Most of my panels are we over 19 in, which is fine I could trim them to the final length. I believe I have one piece that's 1/8 under hoping that won't be an issue and pl could solve it hah.

Next up is to do my drawings my goal is by end of week

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I think you'll be ok, just load up on the PL for that panel.

I had a similar issue with my last cutlist that made it difficult to rough cut all of the same width panels at the same time. It worked out in the end though.

Appreciate the re-assurance. It's a bit scary down the line thinking about putting the side panel on with nails + PL without actually "knowing" if there are gaps..

[Joman116]

Was able to get through layout four. The plans are 100% spot on slowly chip away and take your time. Frustration causes you to make mistakes.

Speed squares a godsend to try and get lines straight and or Square.

Hoping to get layout diagram five complete tomorrow and that would complete all the layout.

[88h88]

Appreciate the re-assurance. It's a bit scary down the line thinking about putting the side panel on with nails + PL without actually "knowing" if there are gaps..

Yeah you can only do your best, sticking the side on is where the paranoia kicks in and you're asking yourself whether every single joint is sealed. And then once you've nailed/screwed and glued that side on you're paranoid about whether every single joint is sealed there. I definitely didn't go overboard every single time I put that final panel on and then spent forever scraping all of the glue squeeze out

[Marflinger]

in case you don't feel safe with the gap resulting, just glue a leftover to it and then cut it down again to the right dimension.
I always go with screws, but also when brad nailing is your favourite way to go it should be super sufficient glued and nailed. Probably also when only glued.

before putting the side on it, you can take whatever long straight ruler-like thing you have and check if everything is (close to) flush. So it is not that much guessing in the end, you could measure this.

[Joman116]

in case you don't feel safe with the gap resulting, just glue a leftover to it and then cut it down again to the right dimension.
I always go with screws, but also when brad nailing is your favourite way to go it should be super sufficient glued and nailed. Probably also when only glued.

before putting the side on it, you can take whatever long straight ruler-like thing you have and check if everything is (close to) flush. So it is not that much guessing in the end, you could measure this.

Thanks for the input I will definitely keep that in mind.

I finished the panel drawings today triple check them they're all within 1/8 inch I would say.

I stacked the two panels together and my other panel ( which doesn't have the drawing I'm going to be drilling through) is about a quarter inch larger. I'm hoping this is not a major issue, that I can just trim off whatever excess whenever I glue panels together at the end

[Tom Smit]

before putting the side on it, you can take whatever long straight ruler-like thing you have and check if everything is (close to) flush. So it is not that much guessing in the end, you could measure this.

This.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

If a panel is proud this is what you use to take it down. It's not a tool you'll use very often, but it's invaluable when you need it. https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Electric-H ... 15Q1Er8dhZ

[Seth]

Just had an embarrassing realization of the inter-significance of things being proud or shy. I've used both terms in their specific momentary context my whole life, but never saw or comprehended the the two terms together. Interesting. They fit together like yes/no. Never noticed that. Huh.

Anyway, if I have a panel that's shy, I've done both... glued on/in a little filler strip and also just used an extra fat bead of shmoo (PL). Never any issues with either solution.

[Joman116]

If a panel is proud this is what you use to take it down. It's not a tool you'll use very often, but it's invaluable when you need it. https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Electric-H ... 15Q1Er8dhZ

Awesome. Just bought it. Can never have enough tools!

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

He who dies with the most tools wins. I just used mine for the first time in years, planing a door that was 1/8" too wide for the opening.

[Joman116]

He who dies with the most tools wins. I just used mine for the first time in years, planing a door that was 1/8" too wide for the opening.

Bill, for my side panels on this t60 one is slightly smaller about 29 and 7/8 of an inch and the other is slightly bigger at 30 1/8. Am I better off reducing the size of the larger one now or wait till the project is done and I put the side panel on? I'll be drilling through the smaller panel to the bigger so all that's going to be done anyway

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Use the smaller side for the initial assembly, make sure all is square, then trim the second side after attaching it to the assembly. A router with a following bit is best for that, though a sander will do in a pinch.

[Joman116]

Use the smaller side for the initial assembly, make sure all is square, then trim the second side after attaching it to the assembly. A router with a following bit is best for that, though a sander will do in a pinch.

Got it so in that case this approach is better compared to using a planer

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Yes, you'd plane a panel that's too wide but rout or sand the second side to remove any overhang.