Mobile Pro Sound Set Up

[Seth]

By the way, for anyone following, I've decided on T30's for subs. Still undecided on tops, but OT8 or OT12 seem to be the options im leaning towards, with a favor towards the 8 because of the footprint.

If you can manage the size, T48 is a way better choice. Outdoors, yes, Tubas work. But, their true potential is unlocked indoors. Titans, on the other hand, bring a huge sensitivity benefit to the table. When there's no boundary loading to take advantage of, you're going to really give up a ton of output potential going with a Tuba. Not to mention power requirements will be more demanding on a mobile, battery powered rig with Tuba's. A 2x12 or single 15 loaded t48 at 30" width would be your sweet spot. If you're using automotive amplifiers, the 2x12 option would allow you to wire for a 4Ω load.

Either OT8 or OT12 will suite well. You'll only need one unless you need/want to have them aiming different directions for additional coverage, perhaps on either side of the trailer. The OT8 will cost a little more.

There are 12v DSP options available. I think MiniDSP has everything you'd need, including a peak limiter for the sub (fairly important).

[jHands]

By the way, for anyone following, I've decided on T30's for subs. Still undecided on tops, but OT8 or OT12 seem to be the options im leaning towards, with a favor towards the 8 because of the footprint.

If you can manage the size, T48 is a way better choice. Outdoors, yes, Tubas work. But, their true potential is unlocked indoors. Titans, on the other hand, bring a huge sensitivity benefit to the table. When there's no boundary loading to take advantage of, you're going to really give up a ton of output potential going with a Tuba. Not to mention power requirements will be more demanding on a mobile, battery powered rig with Tuba's. A 2x12 or single 15 loaded t48 at 30" width would be your sweet spot. If you're using automotive amplifiers, the 2x12 option would allow you to wire for a 4Ω load.

Either OT8 or OT12 will suite well. You'll only need one unless you need/want to have them aiming different directions for additional coverage, perhaps on either side of the trailer. The OT8 will cost a little more.

There are 12v DSP options available. I think MiniDSP has everything you'd need, including a peak limiter for the sub (fairly important).

A T48 is massive, and rules out future plans for deploying the tops and subs as a smaller standalone PA system for open deck nights, etc. I am heavily leaning towards a pair of T30s, and a pair of OT8/12s.

Black Friday is drawing near, and I'd like to purchase power for this project as these battery systems usually have heavy discounts. Anyone have any idea how much juice I will need to power a pair of T30s and OT8s/12s?

Or better yet, how can I reasonably calculate this?

[Keryn O'Shea]

Anyone have any idea how much juice I will need to power a pair of T30s and OT8s/12s?

Have you decided on drivers?
Your location says PNW, is this in the USA?

[KentWhitten]

I think that stands for Pacific Northwest

[jHands]

Kappalite 3012LF for the 30s for sure. The tops, I am still undecided on. Which is better when power is a concern - powering 2 8's or 1 12 plus highs?

[jHands]

Anyone have any idea how much juice I will need to power a pair of T30s and OT8s/12s?

Have you decided on drivers?
Your location says PNW, is this in the USA?

Pacific Northwest, USA. I split my time between Portland and Seattle.

[jHands]

Anyone have any idea how much juice I will need to power a pair of T30s and OT8s/12s?

Have you decided on drivers?
Your location says PNW, is this in the USA?

I am really torn between 12v vs 120v amplification. Being that this is a predominantly Offgrid project, I know that 12v is the way, minimizing the usage of 120 as much as possible and reserving it only for the DJ equipment. That said, it would involve me getting car audio amplifiers for this system, and 120v amplifiers on a rack for when it's deployed standalone in other spaces. I am not opposed to doing this, but I have one concern, which probably isn't a concern:

If I decide to use car audio amplifiers to power this rig for efficiency reasons, can I still process that signal through a driverack PA2? I wouldn't see why not, but just making sure.

[Seth]

A T48 is massive, and rules out future plans for deploying the tops and subs as a smaller standalone PA system for open deck nights, etc. I am heavily leaning towards a pair of T30s, and a pair of OT8/12s.

A pair of T30's will be larger than one T48. I'm curious why it would rule out use in a stand alone system for deck nights.

[Bruce Weldy]

If I decide to use car audio amplifiers to power this rig for efficiency reasons, can I still process that signal through a driverack PA2? I wouldn't see why not, but just making sure.

I'm not a car audio guy, but everything I've ever seen in car amps is that they run on unbalanced signals (RCAs). So, the ouput from the Driverack will be -10db vs. +4db with a PA amplifier. So, you are starving the system a little right there. It will work, but not as efficiently as with a balance signal chain.

The power needed to run either OT8s or OT12s is gonna' be the same.....you give either one of those speakers 100-150 watts at 8ohms highpassed around 100hz and you'll blow your head off. That's about 35 volts needed.

For the subs, the voltage limit on those with the 3012LF is 50, so an amp that does 350 watts at 8ohms is the minimum. I'd get something that can do around 500 to have some headroom.....but, that is REAL voltage/wattage, not the advertising claims of peak power.

And don't forget that the subs must be limited and high passed to keep from blowing them.

[Bruce Weldy]

A T48 is massive, and rules out future plans for deploying the tops and subs as a smaller standalone PA system for open deck nights, etc. I am heavily leaning towards a pair of T30s, and a pair of OT8/12s.

A pair of T30's will be larger than one T48. I'm curious why it would rule out use in a stand alone system for deck nights.

It fits his space parameters and gives him 2 subs.....probably fits the aesthetics also.

[jHands]

If I decide to use car audio amplifiers to power this rig for efficiency reasons, can I still process that signal through a driverack PA2? I wouldn't see why not, but just making sure.

I'm not a car audio guy, but everything I've ever seen in car amps is that they run on unbalanced signals (RCAs). So, the ouput from the Driverack will be -10db vs. +4db with a PA amplifier. So, you are starving the system a little right there. It will work, but not as efficiently as with a balance signal chain.

The power needed to run either OT8s or OT12s is gonna' be the same.....you give either one of those speakers 100-150 watts at 8ohms highpassed around 100hz and you'll blow your head off. That's about 35 volts needed.

For the subs, the voltage limit on those with the 3012LF is 50, so an amp that does 350 watts at 8ohms is the minimum. I'd get something that can do around 500 to have some headroom.....but, that is REAL voltage/wattage, not the advertising claims of peak power.

And don't forget that the subs must be limited and high passed to keep from blowing them.

As the poster above mentioned, the T30 pair fits the aesthetic better and the plans better. This is going to be a cart on wheels, and I believe symmetry is the best way to move heavy loads. I can also adapt the width of the T30 in the build process to give me more open space on the cart between the subs, for amps, dsp, LED boards, battery bank, etc etc etc. This kit will also be removable from this installation, and able to be deployed in smaller spaces for events.

With regard to the drive rack situation, you are correct in that everything in car audio runs via RCA. Someone previously mentioned using a 12v MiniDSP in lieu of the drive rack, and that it has the limiters required. I am still researching this particular piece of equipment to see how it works and what it does, but anyone that knows and can give me a rundown of how it compares to a PA2 with RTA Mic, it would be appreciated.

[jHands]

By the way, for anyone following, I've decided on T30's for subs. Still undecided on tops, but OT8 or OT12 seem to be the options im leaning towards, with a favor towards the 8 because of the footprint.

If you can manage the size, T48 is a way better choice. Outdoors, yes, Tubas work. But, their true potential is unlocked indoors. Titans, on the other hand, bring a huge sensitivity benefit to the table. When there's no boundary loading to take advantage of, you're going to really give up a ton of output potential going with a Tuba. Not to mention power requirements will be more demanding on a mobile, battery powered rig with Tuba's. A 2x12 or single 15 loaded t48 at 30" width would be your sweet spot. If you're using automotive amplifiers, the 2x12 option would allow you to wire for a 4Ω load.

Either OT8 or OT12 will suite well. You'll only need one unless you need/want to have them aiming different directions for additional coverage, perhaps on either side of the trailer. The OT8 will cost a little more.

There are 12v DSP options available. I think MiniDSP has everything you'd need, including a peak limiter for the sub (fairly important).

Seth, would you care to give me a layman's rundown of how the MiniDSP compares to a PA2 with RTA mic?

[Bruce Weldy]

I just spent a few minutes looking up the miniDSP, but could find nothing at all about limiting. If that's not there, it's a no go......

Maybe I just couldn't find it.

[jHands]

I just spent a few minutes looking up the miniDSP, but could find nothing at all about limiting. If that's not there, it's a no go......

Maybe I just couldn't find it.

check out this little guy I found doing some digging. cheap and extremely highly regarded.

https://manuals.plus/asin/B0CN1QH8YN

[jHands]

If I decide to use car audio amplifiers to power this rig for efficiency reasons, can I still process that signal through a driverack PA2? I wouldn't see why not, but just making sure.

I'm not a car audio guy, but everything I've ever seen in car amps is that they run on unbalanced signals (RCAs). So, the ouput from the Driverack will be -10db vs. +4db with a PA amplifier. So, you are starving the system a little right there. It will work, but not as efficiently as with a balance signal chain.

The power needed to run either OT8s or OT12s is gonna' be the same.....you give either one of those speakers 100-150 watts at 8ohms highpassed around 100hz and you'll blow your head off. That's about 35 volts needed.

For the subs, the voltage limit on those with the 3012LF is 50, so an amp that does 350 watts at 8ohms is the minimum. I'd get something that can do around 500 to have some headroom.....but, that is REAL voltage/wattage, not the advertising claims of peak power.

And don't forget that the subs must be limited and high passed to keep from blowing them.

I am running into issues finding 12v amplification that produces good power at 8 ohms. Most car audio stuff is lower impedance than the drivers we are building enclosures for on this forum. I may have to bite the bullet and just do a 12v LIFEPO4 inverter system to run it.

When calculating wattage needs for an inverter, do I calculate the wattage output of the amplifier at the impedance I'm using it at? For instance, I will probably use a Behringer NX3000 for subs. It does 440x2 rms at 8 ohms but it's a 3000 watt amp. is the 880 watts the actual wattage draw that the inverter needs to accommodate?