American Birch vs. Baltic Birch

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.
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bgavin
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American Birch vs. Baltic Birch

#1 Post by bgavin »

Here is the difference between American Birch and the real thing. After building a T39 with American Birch, I still much prefer Baltic.

Baltic is the horizontal part, and American is the vertical. Note the very thin veneer on the American stuff. It chips very easily when sawn.

The squeeze-out is what I typically get with PL. Note the very tight joint, despite the expansion characteristics of PL. This sample is the cut-out for T39 recessed casters.

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My biggest worry is that when I'm dead and gone, my wife will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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#2 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

I'd be willing to bet the plies in the American 'birch' with the light and dark striations are pine/spruce/fir, not birch.

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#3 Post by bgavin »

No doubt. I needed 4x8 sheets, and my yard says BB is out of stock for the foreseeable future. DaveK evidently called them a day or so back, and they are in stock again. I don't care about $50/sheet, just so I can get sufficient stock for upcoming T48.

I really don't like the stuff I showed in the photo. It is nowhere as strong or ding resistant as BB.
My biggest worry is that when I'm dead and gone, my wife will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them.

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LelandCrooks
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#4 Post by LelandCrooks »

That's the stuff my local yard sells as superply, with a very nicely finished face, needs biscuits or screw to prevent the top thin ply from coming off. The BB looks just like what I just bought at $20 a sheet.
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DaveK
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#5 Post by DaveK »

bgavin wrote:DaveK evidently called them a day or so back, and they are in stock again. I don't care about $50/sheet, just so I can get sufficient stock for upcoming T48.
Just picked up a few sheets today. They have more than enough 4x8 on the shelf for 4 T48s.
bgavin wrote:I really don't like the stuff I showed in the photo. It is nowhere as strong or ding resistant as BB.
At least the domestic birch is a little better than the stuff at HD. The veneer on the HD stuff is even thinner. I had the exact same cutout from a T39 wheel well that you show in the picture. I let it cure for a couple weeks then grabbed each side with pliers and twisted. Sure enough, the joint broke with surprisingly little force and the failure point was the ultra-thin veneer separating from the layer below.

I'm sticking to BB or Arauco from now on.

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fender3x
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#6 Post by fender3x »

DaveK wrote:I let it cure for a couple weeks then grabbed each side with pliers and twisted...

I'm sticking to BB or Arauco from now on.
I had the same experience with some maple plywood that I used in my T39...The maple was close in color to the ply just under it, so I did not notice until I had started building with it. Not only was did it have that crappy thin veneer, but it also cost me $45 sheet. I ended up using dowels on all the joints.

For under $30 I can get good five ply pine, and that has worked much better. You might keep an eye out for that...I know it exists since it is pretty much the only acceptable alternative locally available.

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mloretitsch
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#7 Post by mloretitsch »

fender3x wrote:
DaveK wrote:I let it cure for a couple weeks then grabbed each side with pliers and twisted...

I'm sticking to BB or Arauco from now on.
I had the same experience with some maple plywood that I used in my T39...The maple was close in color to the ply just under it, so I did not notice until I had started building with it. Not only was did it have that crappy thin veneer, but it also cost me $45 sheet. I ended up using dowels on all the joints.

For under $30 I can get good five ply pine, and that has worked much better. You might keep an eye out for that...I know it exists since it is pretty much the only acceptable alternative locally available.
I've gotten that around here too from the big box stores...if I'm prototyping a box or a case then it works great..at least the plies are equal thickness! Doesn't finish nicely without a lot of Bondo and sanding...or rat fur.

-Matt

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#8 Post by bgavin »

The T39 is for me, so I'm not too worried about it. I plan on covering it in carpet anyway for better protection of this wood. The bottom plate is BB, the other exterior panels are CB (crappy birch).
My biggest worry is that when I'm dead and gone, my wife will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them.

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davygrvy
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#9 Post by davygrvy »

Have you guys tried the Chinese white birch? When I asked these guys about BB, they recommended the Chinese white birch instead, which I used. And they ran out of it fast, FWIW.

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Harley
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#10 Post by Harley »

davygrvy wrote:.....Chinese white birch instead, which I used. And they ran out of it fast, FWIW.
If it's anything like most of the crap we get here from that place, I'd be giving it a wide birth.

In the last week a couple of kids have gone up in flames wearing pajamas and standing by a heater the clothes were labeled "Flameproof" - toothpaste coming from China contained highly toxic chemicals including glycol in it - and some "starched never-iron" clothes were found to have about 200 times OVER the MAX safe level of formaldehyde in the fabric.....

Chinese Birch...not for this fella!
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davygrvy
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#11 Post by davygrvy »

You forgot to mention lead in the paint on children's toys

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#12 Post by Frankenspeakers »

There is no technical problem however complex, that cannot be solved or finessed by a direct application of brute strength and ignorance.

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davygrvy
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#13 Post by davygrvy »

Har har.. back on topic:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/P ... ywood.html
http://www.ipmg.org/id16.html

Seems to be 50% say it sucks, but buyer beware. Mine were flat and straight with a very nicely colored veneer on both side and was 7-ply, but wasn't void free. BB was not available for me a few months ago when I built my speakers. I do not know the mill it came from. Description in my bill is:

1/2 Birch white C3 imp unfinished

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