NEW BUILD - Omni 15 Tall Boy in New Zealand

[Grey Owl]

Even more pics.
Meant to say regarding my baffle measurement for retaining bolts, in one of my workshop/garage cabinets, I found my very old High School tech compass and divider set and, could actually recall my teacher's instruction how to divide and cross check the measurement of space.
You see, some things do stick in kid's heads when you make it interesting & teach them right! Even if it was the 60's
I don't know if schools still teach tech drawing anymore?? Do they??
Cheers

[Grey Owl]

Gidday All,
1. I am installing two recessed casters and two recessed handles in this build to take the load off my old back.
2. Had assumed that they would both be installed on rear of the cabinet vertical to each other and look purdy.
3. However, and there's always an "however", if I add a panel at the bottom to mount the casters, now looking at it in the flesh the recessed casters may foul my ability to squeeze the 15 inches through the remaining space to mount the woofer?
4. Next option would be to install casters, handles and sliders on the "off" side. However, aesthetically it may look crap.
5. Thoughts and idea's from the assembled maestro's please???
6. I've attached a pic of someone who did the same rear caster/handle thing on a T39.
Look forward to your thoughts please.
Cheers
G.O.

[tallevan]

I've done something similar to what you describe on my Omni 12 Tall Boy.

I used the same casters as in the T39 you pictured, but on the side of the cab (opposite the woofer mouth).
Rather than blocking off the length of the inside edged to accomodate the casters, I boxed them in individually. Don't know if that helps your woofer fit situation, but it's easy.

It looks fine. Feet come in all sizes, choose two that are exactly the same height as the casters and the cab won't tilt over. I used a couple of fat washers to fine-tune the height.

I find if the casters are too close together it affects stability when rolling. Mine went as par apart as possible, I trimmed the plastic chevron corners down to accomodate.
Penn Elcom (I think) makes a recessed caster with a built in cabinet corner for minimum caster-to-corner distance. They have round-tyred rollerblade wheels, from memory. I'll try those next time.

I used the same jack plate as pictured, but prefer it higher with jacks pointing down.

Finally, you can buy waaaay smaller corner handles than that. I just have one small one on the top edge on the side over the casters. I did take the trouble to box it in to avoid leaks. A side benefit is that it gives the mounting screws more htan a half-inch purchase.

Looking good.

[Grey Owl]

Thanks TallEvan,
That'll do then thanks - offside that is.
I've already purchased the casters and rubber feet and they do match each other in height.
With the large handles (already bought), discussed this with Leland and he uses hot glue on the insides (removes wheels) and carefully seals the small vent holes plus, then uses speaker gaskets to seal the actual mounting bracket edges.
I'm using chromed cabinet corners as I've got an Ampeg amp and thinking of using Ampeg pattern vinyl, which we can get here in NZ.
we'll see how we go as we approach that stage.
Cheers

[Seth]

It's looking great David. I've been enjoying your updates. Way to go on keeping the project coming along.

[Grey Owl]

Afternoon All.
1. Not much was done yesterday; was in a cruising mode, I think.
2. Today I’ve glued the baffle on using significant quantities of the sticky stuff to true everything up.
3. The thinnest part of the baffle worries me that it may be in danger of flex / damage. So, have added a very small brace at the narrowest section for peace of mind. I wouldn’t think it would cause any sonic degradation.
4. More pics added for your comment, edification & general entertainment.

Thanks TallEvan for your suggestions much appreciated.

#33 Post by tallevan » 15 Apr 2020, 19:37
I've done something similar to what you describe on my Omni 12 Tall Boy.
I used the same casters as in the T39 you pictured, but on the side of the cab (opposite the woofer mouth).
Rather than blocking off the length of the inside edged to accomodate the casters, I boxed them in individually. Don't know if that helps your woofer fit situation, but it's easy.

Thanks. At this stage I’m looking to box each handle and caster separately to strengthen things because on the bottom rear edge, there will be three cut-out sections adjacent to each other for mounting purposes. I may even put a long reinforcing brace across all three in addition.
It seems my hands are still controlling my brains when the actual parts need fitting saving cock-ups!

I find if the casters are too close together it affects stability when rolling. Mine went as par apart as possible, I trimmed the plastic chevron corners down to accomodate.
Penn Elcom (I think) makes a recessed caster with a built in cabinet corner for minimum caster-to-corner distance. They have round-tyred rollerblade wheels, from memory. I'll try those next time.

Will move my casters as wide as possible. The original rear location gives much wider space between each; about15”. On the side, now it’s down to 10.5”.

Finally, you can buy waaaay smaller corner handles than that. I just have one small one on the top edge on the side over the casters. I did take the trouble to box it in to avoid leaks. A side benefit is that it gives the mounting screws more htan a half-inch purchase.

I’m actually using small chromed corners.
As I’m shifting from a 20” wide rear panel to a 17” side panel for my handles and losing 3”, I’ve “now only space for one handle, not two side by side. So, my cunning plan is to now put one handle at each end of the cab for dual lifting as it’s quite hefty & I’ll probably need help. I’ve dummied up on the pics so you can visualise my idea.

I used the same jack plate as pictured, but prefer it higher with jacks pointing down.

I’m installing 2 jacks and two Neutriks in parallel to cover all eventualities. Plus, an L-Pad.
Yep, putting them up top.

Cheers All

[Grey Owl]

pics 2

[Grey Owl]

Pics 3
Am slowly getting there and finding it's a great way to keep my mind active. Better than being at work, that's for sure.
Cheers

[Seth]

Is that gingerbread house frosting you're using? I hear it works well.

[Grey Owl]

Thanks Seth,
Ha ha.
Just follows Bill's directions - puts lots of gunk on and use the regulation clean up method tools of sweat, sand paper and a sharp chisel.
It actually cleans up very well.
Once I have everything where I want it, I going to longboard it all over.
I absolutely do not want any lines or blemishes in the final product.
Cheers

[Grey Owl]

Afternoon All,
Well, I haven't posted for a day or so coz I've been sanding, chiselling off gunk & generally trying to remove, clean up the inevitable marks & scars caused by doing that process. I reckon there's still plenty of that to go as well!
I've quickly sprayed a bit of paint over the bits I've finished so when I sand it should show me the high & low points.
Some further pics attached.
Eventhough I braced the back section per the plans, I did need to really compress the small panel against the side panels over night to bring me back to 90 degree angles true in each direction.
Glued that panel on today with Seth's frosting apparent.
Tomorrow is the top installation and then the need to face the fiendish, dreaded multi-angled mid-horn.
I'm really happy with my progress, albeit slow, but enjoying things.
I got glue on my hands/fingers by mistake yesterday, surgical gloves split, so it looks like a black pox on my mits!!!
Cheers for now.

[Grey Owl]

Evening All,

Small back is on, top is on, hole cut for 2 x Neutriks and 2 x jacks - box is all in on piece now.
Preliminary sand on all panels. top and bottom as well. I've only got a finishing sander using 80 but really need something heavier to help me "true up my cuts"

I shot paint around the inside and some of the front panel to show up imperfections.
Wish I hadn't done that! It's terrible to sand and doesn't come off clean i.e. it pills & blocks up the sandpaper.
My fault really as I had found an unopened aerosol can of black and happily blasted away - have just read the small print today and realised it's high temperature specialised product for protecting engine blocks plus, it's oil based. No wonder it s'hard to work with.

QUESTION - where do you guys find the best position to install the L-Pad?
On the front panel, rear panel, inside the throat, for easy access or elsewhere?

Latest pics attached.
Cheers

[tallevan]

Nice work so far, AFAICT.

You may want to put a grille over the woofer mouth, if not now then later. So I wouldn't put the lpad there.

I usually (the two times I've done it) put the lpad on the left side, near the top so when facing the cab i can get at it with my right hand. If that makes sense.

I also glue a 1/2 inch plywood plate behind the hole to allow better screw purchase and let me inlay the lpad a bit back from the surface. Optional, but I find it saves me from scraping the numbers off the lpad.

Otherwise, if it doesn't have an included recessed cup, I might mount the lpad on the angled recessed jack plate. I think you pictured that sort of plate earlier.

Depends on how often you like to frig around with it.

[Grey Owl]

TallEvan
Love the cutout idea thanks.
Leland supplied the L-pad; a nice little unit so recessing the entire unit in by half an inch makes absolute great advice.
I'm inserting a half grill but I still have a round grill from my old cab.
I may also reinstall it inside the new grill to give me "belts & braces" protection.
Cheers All

[Grey Owl]

Gidday Peeps,
Not much to show lately just been cutting hole for L-Pad and more & more sanding etc.

QUESTION:
The more I hang around with this enclosure the more s..t pops up into my head.
1. How about I install two switches on the recessed P-Pad plate with the purpose to individually turn off either or both of the mid / tweeter leaving me with a sub which I can run with two Jack 10's?? Could turning the P-Pad to zero turn the tweeter off?
2. When you were a kid did your Grandparents have an old full sized tube radiogram about 4 feet long and 2 feet wide - a true piece of furniture.
3. Ours had a global multi band receiver including 5 or 6 channels of short wave, mid and local radio stations.
4. From New Zealand, we could easily drag in sports games from Australia and in the evenings, Hong Kong, China and Voice of America all the way from Quito in Equador - half the world away.
5. It also had a record player.
6. This living thing had a mysterious glowing green magic tuning eye on its deck that pulsated and glowed in the dark. When you had it dialed in to the strongest signal, it would change shape to a vertical line? When I was really young, I thought someone lived inside that cabinet & the snake eye was it looking at me (I think Granddad told me that to keep my fingers out!).
7. Can you still find such things to buy?
9. How would I power up something spooky like that on the front panel for the public to be mesmerised by? I'm sure that would really attract enquiries and interest - ha ha ha??

Best answer gets a large bottle of JD when you next visit NZ.
Cheers Aye
Grey Owl