Cables are expensive

[Bryan Cox]

I've owned a few different variations on PA systems through the years and it occurs to me that I spend as much on cabling as I do on processors and amps. For example: (I'm only considering 12 gauge speaker cables here)

There are some cheaper brands like Yoico, Dekomusic, Ignite Pro, Musicians Gear, etc... Those can be had for affordable prices but the cable is usually plastic based and the connectors are less than robust.

However, cables that last serious abuse are pricey....
Hosa, Livewire, Kirlin, D'Addario, etc...

If I had purchased 12-gauge speakon to speakon cables the 10 I have would've code me ~$500. I didn't want to spend that much so I made them. Super simple to do. Here's what I used:

12-2 SJOOW for $0.60 per ft from here:
https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/por ... l-csa.html

Then I bought a bunch of speakon NL4 connectors from Amazon. I built 2x 25'; 2x 20'; 2x 5'.

Total cost was $110.

Been doing it this way for years. Anyone else build their own cabling to save costs?

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I don't think I've bought an assembled cable in the last forty years.

[Bryan Cox]

I don't think I've bought an assembled cable in the last forty years.

Damn. Seems my method is no secret. Haha. Speakons are the only ones I've built. Never tried XLR. I tried to help repair a midi cable once but the wires were so small and I couldn't hold steady enough. I think I did more damage than good.

[Bruce Weldy]

I don't think I've bought an assembled cable in the last forty years.

Damn. Seems my method is no secret. Haha. Speakons are the only ones I've built. Never tried XLR. I tried to help repair a midi cable once but the wires were so small and I couldn't hold steady enough. I think I did more damage than good.

I build all of my cables, Speakon, xlr, TRS, you name it. And you may want to get your connectors from Parts Express....the real Neutrik stuff (the only thing you should use) is expensive on Amazon....at least I've never found NL4s on Amazon where it wasn't cheaper to pay PE for shipping than to get the same thing on Amazon with free shipping.

[Bryan Cox]

I don't think I've bought an assembled cable in the last forty years.

Damn. Seems my method is no secret. Haha. Speakons are the only ones I've built. Never tried XLR. I tried to help repair a midi cable once but the wires were so small and I couldn't hold steady enough. I think I did more damage than good.

I build all of my cables, Speakon, xlr, TRS, you name it. And you may want to get your connectors from Parts Express....the real Neutrik stuff (the only thing you should use) is expensive on Amazon....at least I've never found NL4s on Amazon where it wasn't cheaper to pay PE for shipping than to get the same thing on Amazon with free shipping.

Funny you mention that. I recently got some Neutrik NL4FX on Amazon for $4.24 each. Prior to that I was using Neutrik NL4FC-B from Full Compass at $6.00 each. Those are no longer available unless I get them from eBay at a whopping $13 a pop plus shipping.

And even though they're higher priced I prefer the NL4FC-B over the others. They have a weight relief/dust sleeve at the base that I like. The NL4FX doesn't have that and there is significant play at the end. With it being open I'm concerned about moisture and dust getting into the connection.

I've never purchased connectors from PE. I'll check them out. Thanks, Bruce.

On another note, would you guys have any suggestions for bare XLR cable (3 conductor)? I came across a roll of Mogami but it was more than $3/ft. At that price I'd just buy some good quality ones. I really kinda like the Cable Matters stuff TBTO.

[Strange Kevin]

There are a lot of places you can get bulk XLR cable.
I've had good success with Redco Audio and GLS.

If you just need a few cheap pre-made cables Monoprice usually are good deal, although not the most reliable. I've had to re-solder a handful of mine.

[Bryan Cox]

There are a lot of places you can get bulk XLR cable.
I've had good success with Redco Audio and GLS.

If you just need a few cheap pre-made cables Monoprice usually are good deal, although not the most reliable. I've had to re-solder a handful of mine.

Thanks, Strange Kevin. I'll look into those.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

NL4FC-B are $8.65 at Markertek. Belden 8451 mic cable is 25 cents a foot.

[Bryan Cox]

NL4FC-B are $8.65 at Markertek. Belden 8451 mic cable is 25 cents a foot.

Thanks, Bill. I pretty much ate my words as soon as I made that post. I looked again after writing it and found a few more NL4FC-B suppliers than I could find 1 and 2 weeks ago. I didn't find Markertek though; thank you.

And now that I have affordable options for both mic cable and 12-2 I'm gonna get 500' spools of each and start soldering on a rainy day.

[Bruce Weldy]

I stopped using the NL4 as soon as the NL2fx came out. It the same connector with just two poles. And as much as I love soldering, I use the screw-on style. They hold on tight as a gnat's ass. In all the years I used mine, I've only had one speaker cable come loose. And that was because some yahoo was trying to help tear down and yanked on the cable.

As far as moisture and dust - it's not an issue. There's really no need to spring for the extra cash and effort of soldering.

And it looks like Amazon has this one at a reasonable price - in fact, better than PE. They are usually twice as expensive....

https://www.amazon.com/NL2FX-Neutrik-Co ... b_title_hi

I've always used Rapco/Horizon mic cable since there's a music store I do business with that will order a spool for me. I think I paid $0.26/ft last time. For internal wiring inside racks, I use install wire. Same gauge as mic cable, but with a thinner jacket that takes less space with routing a bunch of wires.

[Bryan Cox]

I stopped using the NL4 as soon as the NL2fx came out. It the same connector with just two poles. And as much as I love soldering, I use the screw-on style. They hold on tight as a gnat's ass. In all the years I used mine, I've only had one speaker cable come loose. And that was because some yahoo was trying to help tear down and yanked on the cable.

As far as moisture and dust - it's not an issue. There's really no need to spring for the extra cash and effort of soldering.

And it looks like Amazon has this one at a reasonable price - in fact, better than PE. They are usually twice as expensive....

https://www.amazon.com/NL2FX-Neutrik-Co ... b_title_hi

I've always used Rapco/Horizon mic cable since there's a music store I do business with that will order a spool for me. I think I paid $0.26/ft last time. For internal wiring inside racks, I use install wire. Same gauge as mic cable, but with a thinner jacket that takes less space with routing a bunch of wires.

That's good info. The NL4FC-B is screw type terminals as well. I really only prefer it for the dust boot at the base. But I have WAY less experience than you so if you say the others are fine then I'll settle down. TBH, I'm not sure why I sprung for the NL4 over the NL2. I only use two of the conductors. I guess I thought maybe I'd need the other two one day...who knows? And that's a damn good price on Amazon.

$0.26/ft seems very reasonable. Online I've seen from $0.15/ft all the way to $3.08/ft. I read about low oxygen, gold something or other...blah, blah. Most of that stuff was from audiophile sites where they swear they can hear a difference (because of the Mogami cable) in the fidelity. However, I plan to use regular ole mic cable. Should be fine.

Thanks Bruce!

[Bruce Weldy]

Just make sure that you get the NL2fx. I think they still make the old-style NL2 - it sucked. It's the one where you slide the sleeve to unlock it.....

And when it comes to mic wire.....copper is copper. The most important thing to me is to make sure that it's 22-24ga and has a good jacket. The jacket is what lets a cable lay flat and not have a memory. And be sure and wrap 'em over/under if you don't already.

[Bryan Cox]

Just make sure that you get the NL2fx. I think they still make the old-style NL2 - it sucked. It's the one where you slide the sleeve to unlock it.....

And when it comes to mic wire.....copper is copper. The most important thing to me is to make sure that it's 22-24ga and has a good jacket. The jacket is what lets a cable lay flat and not have a memory. And be sure and wrap 'em over/under if you don't already.

Will do. Thanks!