In the earlier part of this thread there was some discussion about integration of the AT into the car system mostly about whether or not a separate level control was needed/wanted.
I keep searching to read more about sub integration in cars. Please suggest several approaches from a basic integration with level control to full integration with DSP including emphasis on how to measure FR in cabin and how to apply equalization and delay.
Is there any reason not to screw a properly sized cover to the access holes boundarys directly rather than make flanges? I don't have the ability to inset the covers. I found 3 leaks and filled them with PL. Very distinctive fluttering sound that - once you've heard it. I may use a Neutrik connector in front of one of the access panels for that nice locking connection. OTOH, a simple hole drilled and caulked around the cable could allow it to lay flat under the carpeting and trail out the back of the sub It would be less prone to getting wear and tear from cargo. A hard-wired cable is more difficult to change of course.
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If you don't care about the flush look then go ahead, others have. Just a rectangle peice of ply with weatherstripping screwed over the openings will work fine. Make sure it is airtight, screws about every 4" or closer. Your carpet "may" even take the place of the weatherstripping for an airtight seal, test after with the tubing to be sure.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
I am in the build process and i am planning to do just what you did with the driver chamber covers. I understand how a flush finish is real clean but for the simplicity of it I plan to just cover my holes like you did, good job with the build!!!
Thanks Leland and ACUA. I found a leak in the access cover panel opposite the speakon connector. I had just eyeballed the placement of the cover and ended up having a screw not biting into the panel but uselessly going directly into the chamber. A reposition of the cover and rescrewing sealed it. So, I definitely recommend careful positioning of the cover (measuring?) and weather stripping for a complete seal.
ACUA wrote:I am in the build process and i am planning to do just what you did with the driver chamber covers. I understand how a flush finish is real clean but for the simplicity of it I plan to just cover my holes like you did, good job with the build!!!
Why not build the access cover flanges like the plans show? It's not that hard. Just gotta make sure you don't blob the glue or the cover can sit funny. The flush cover really wasn't much harder, it just took more patience and a router of course.
I rigged a way to get some idea of what she'll sound like in the car. I pulled into the now cleaned up garage/workshop where I'd have AC power. I crawled into the trunk and tapped into the rear deck speakers taking a chance that their high level signal could be adapted to RCAs and accepted by the low level input on the Paradigm X-30 crossover I use for the THTLP. What could happen right? Overload? Distortion?
I hauled the crossover and a 200w Marantz monoblock to the garage and plugged them in finally loading the AT into the trunk. I had to turn the gain on the crossover surprisingly high to get enough signal. Without anyway to do a highpass I was probably lucky that the HU likely rolls off the bass a lot to the rear speakers. Apparently that high level signal adapted to low level straight in without a LOC was good enough for this test because crossed at about 80Hz I got a couple of shocks playing parts of Michael Jackson's Dangerous CD.
I'm admittedly a neophyte when it comes to having experience of quality bass in vehicles. I didn't know that bass in a car could HIT like this
Now got to come up with the cash for real integration of my sweet AT.