Multimeter recommendation?

[bean438]

Hi guys, it's been a few years. Hope everyone is doing well!

Anyways I've been through a few cheapo meters over the years.

It's time for a new meter, mostly for testing batteries, car batteries/alternators, guitar cables....that sort of thing.

I'm also going to be playing around with some solar power systems at the remote cabin.

Just wanted to know what do I really need, and how much should I really spend?

I,don't want to,overpay for features I will never need, but I also believe in "cry once, buy once".

I'm also wondering if I'm going to need one,of those clamp style meters?

Fluke has a nice dual 117/323 kit.

What do you guys think?

Thanks.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I use one I got at Lowes for $29.95. A clamp style is used for measuring current on AC lines, which you very seldom do, if ever, unless you're an electrician.

[Tom Smit]

One of the better unit from CTC will work. I bought this one when it was on sale. You can always buy an amp clamp with which you plug into your DMM so as to check your solar panel output.

[kkip]

I have an older Fluke 77 and a new Mastech MS8268. The Fluke is a great meter but the Mastech seems to work just as well and is available from Amazon for about $25. It also has more functions than the Fluke. One feature I really like is the auto ranging capacitance meter.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050L ... detailpage

[Pedro Vila]

I have a Amprobe 37XR-A. I buy used and very cheap on ebay. I can measure inductance, capacitance, true RMS and everything else.

[bean438]

Thanks for the responses guys.

It's confusing because you'd think a fluke would have more features than a 25 dollar MM.

I have no problem spending a few hundred dollars, but if I can get away with 25, or 50, even better!

Can you plug a clamp into,any meter, or only certain ones?

[CoronaOperator]

Hi guys, it's been a few years. Hope everyone is doing well!

Welcome back!!!

It's time for a new meter, mostly for testing batteries, car batteries

For batteries a DMM isn't enough, you have to test the voltage drop under load. A battery can read good voltage without anything hooked up but under load there might be no juice there. That requires some sort of test device.

.../alternators...I'm also going to be playing around with some solar power systems at the remote cabin.

You probably want a separate clamp meter that can measure DC amps (unless it is under 10A as a regular DMM can measure up to that), not all of them do, some just measure AC current.

Just wanted to know what do I really need, and how much should I really spend?

I,don't want to,overpay for features I will never need, but I also believe in "cry once, buy once".

I'm also wondering if I'm going to need one,of those clamp style meters?

Fluke has a nice dual 117/323 kit.

What do you guys think?

Thanks.

Those fluke meters are really expensive, those that use meters to protect their lives and reputation with (electricians, regional operators tying into 3 phase power/balancing loads on 3 phase power, etc) wouldn't use anything else. I'm just a hobbyist so I use a regular CT (Canadian Tire) DMM and I have another clamp meter that CT used to sell that does DC amps. I heard the new one they sell only does AC amps so check first. For inductance and capacitance I use my computer and Parts Express woofer tester (DATS V2).

at the remote cabin

PS: I'll be driving through Winnipeg tomorrow night on the way to mine for Christmas. Maybe not totally remote but there are sleds waiting for me when I get there and at 94 MPH it doesn't take long to get to a remote place

[Tom Smit]

This is the amp clamp that I have (if you click on the picture you can see that it does up to 400A or 1000A) It does AC and DC.
http://www.mactools.ca/en-ca/Diagnostic ... nt-Adapter

[bean438]

Corona, I've always used a DMM to test a car battery. Unless I've been doing it wrong......

1. Battery voltage at rest

2. Battery voltage at start up (shouldn't drop below 9 volts or so??....chart is in garage) this is the "load" test

3. Voltage when running to,test alternator.

There's a few other tests if the alternator tests at 14 but the charging dashboard light is on.

It's basically to,test for poor connection at the alternator, and main vehicle ground. Never had to,test that because I've always been "lucky", dashboard light has always been a bad alternator.

[CoronaOperator]

2. Battery voltage at start up (shouldn't drop below 9 volts or so??....chart is in garage) this is the "load" test

That would work as a quick and dirty load although the load wouldn't be standardized. The load would change as the outside temperature did (+25C vs -25C). I think CT tests them for free if you have the time to take them there. For the alternator a voltage test doesn't tell you the current that it is producing but that may or may not be important to you. Again I think CT tests them for free.

[Tom Smit]

For the alternator a voltage test doesn't tell you the current that it is producing but that may or may not be important to you. Again I think CT tests them for free.

Checking the voltage with "EVERYTHING" on will give a good indication. bump up the RPM just to be sure. If it can't reach the voltage that was read after a minute after start-up when on high idle, then the alternator could well be faulty. Dash light could be an indicator of worn brushes or faulty regulator.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Corona, I've always used a DMM to test a car battery. Unless I've been doing it wrong......

For a quick check of battery status without opening the hood I have one of these in the car.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EV ... ge_o08_s00