The multi-tone finishes are not my cup of tea but you seem to have pulled it off nicely.
Here's food for thought; I think a thin black frame, same as your grill mount frame, mounted on the outside of the grill, (to cover the grill edges if that wasn't clear) would really give these a polished look!
Either way, Bravo!
nice idea thanks...how'd you do that
What? How did I say those things? Or how did I modify your cab pic?
If it's the second one, I work in Photoshop extensively. I just created a quick hack-up to visualize it
ha ha yea the pic modification. thanks for the kind words, I will have to see what material and way to fasten so as to still be able to remove the grille, but I like that idea.
heavybdrums wrote:ha ha yea the pic modification. thanks for the kind words, I will have to see what material and way to fasten so as to still be able to remove the grille, but I like that idea.
I was thinking of merely using thinner strips of wood (so you would still have a nice lip), painted, and you could use the same screws thereby sandwiching the grill between the two.
The bonus is you use the same screws and screw points and the grill is less likely to rattle!
Retired Authorized Loudspeaker Builder - Indianapolis, IN
heavybdrums wrote:ha ha yea the pic modification. thanks for the kind words, I will have to see what material and way to fasten so as to still be able to remove the grille, but I like that idea.
I was thinking of merely using thinner strips of wood (so you would still have a nice lip), painted, and you could use the same screws thereby sandwiching the grill between the two.
The bonus is you use the same screws and screw points and the grill is less likely to rattle!
ok yea I can see that working. Currently the grate is mounted on a piece of 1/2" door weatherstripping for rattle abatement, and I will have to get longer screws, but yea I will do that.
thank you thank you!! The second WH8 is done enough such that both are going to band practice today. All that both lack are enough screws to put the rest of the corners on, and on one I ordered the wrong jack plate. The first I ordered 2x1/4" ts and 2x speakon and forgot on the second one and ordered 1/4" only, and of course they don't both fit in the same size hole in the cab. The last pictures and post for this thread will be totally finished pics, then on to WH10's. This speaker building is too much fun
OMFG !! (that's fracking) Last night we used the 2x WH8's in combination with the jbl 15" monitors at band practice and they just rocked! So clear and present with vocal intelligibility, they just sounded so good after doing auto eq through the dbx. I actually found it necessary to cut some of the high end off the vocals to prevent the feedback destroyer from having to activate quite so much. The room we have band practice in is quite possibly THE worst room in the world to run sound in and is definitely a worthy test area for any equipment or setup. It's really small, mebe 12x12 ft. and lots of sliding glass door area which the main vocalist stands in front of. There is NO room in the world that we can go in and not sound better and have less hassles with feedback (except maybe a tiled bathroom). Now can't wait to make the WH10's and replace the jbl's completely. From the first listen to the WH8's with full freq. music, they appeared to sound a little like an AM radio (kind of tinny), then did the auto eq on the dbx, which helped immensely, but still sounded thin. But in the real world application of a vocal monitor their real design purpose and performance shine with clear and present vocals above the rest of the band on stage. All the hype is true..but in that case, it really isn't hype then is it?
heavybdrums wrote:"The cab is lined with 1 to 1½ inch thick polyester quilt batting or mattress
topper foam. Line the cab bottom, lower and upper back." (From the plans)
So no foam on the sides? Any reason why? Unnecessary?
Still wondering about this..I proceeded as per the plans but found it curious that the 2 largest parallel sides don't get foam.
heavybdrums wrote:I proceeded as per the plans but found it curious that the 2 largest parallel sides don't get foam.
They're not on a direct reflective path to the cone. Line them if you wish.
Thanks Bill, understand that the sides are not in a path to cause interior reflections because the horns body is in the way of said reflections, won't do that if not necessary.
Note that in the first pic i replaced the plastic 1/4" speaker jacks from speakerhardware with metal ones, just can't abide plastic anywhere there are threads involved (the nut that holds the jack in place), the twist lock ones are ok since they have screws holding them in.
heavybdrums wrote:Note that in the first pic i replaced the plastic 1/4" speaker jacks from speakerhardware with metal ones, just can't abide plastic anywhere there are threads involved (the nut that holds the jack in place), the twist lock ones are ok since they have screws holding them in.
The reason for the plastic ones is that they are airtight. You've just added two new ports to the cabinet.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Bruce Weldy wrote:
The reason for the plastic ones is that they are airtight. You've just added two new ports to the cabinet.
True, but much too small to upset things. It's totally different from the sealed chamber in a sub, where any leak can be a problem.
Yea I figured that the 2 x 5-1/2" by 1-1/2" ports in proportion to the 2 x 1/4" new ports was insignificant compared to the problems with the plastic threads stripping on the plastic 1/4" jacks (already having problems) was worth it. Once i get to building subs and tops, I will be using no 1/4" jacks and only the twist lock neutrik speakon jacks as they are relatively airtight. On this note, for the W10's which have the "handle holes" sealed, and the ports in the horn body, would you recommend not using the open 1/4" jacks or in this case would it also not matter? Currently, since I have many 1/4" speaker wires I was figuring on using 1/4" for the monitors, and speakons for mains and subs, which would also help when setting up to not confuse which speaker wire goes to which, or is this idea silly? Thanks soooo much for your info.
Bruce Weldy wrote:
The reason for the plastic ones is that they are airtight. You've just added two new ports to the cabinet.
True, but much too small to upset things. It's totally different from the sealed chamber in a sub, where any leak can be a problem.
Yea I figured that the 2 x 5-1/2" by 1-1/2" ports in proportion to the 2 x 1/4" new ports was insignificant compared to the problems with the plastic threads stripping on the plastic 1/4" jacks (already having problems) was worth it. Once i get to building subs and tops, I will be using no 1/4" jacks and only the twist lock neutrik speakon jacks as they are relatively airtight. On this note, for the W10's which have the "handle holes" sealed, and the ports in the horn body, would you recommend not using the open 1/4" jacks or in this case would it also not matter? Currently, since I have many 1/4" speaker wires I was figuring on using 1/4" for the monitors, and speakons for mains and subs, which would also help when setting up to not confuse which speaker wire goes to which, or is this idea silly? Thanks soooo much for your info.
Dump the 1/4" and replace all of those ends with Speakon. It's just a better, more reliable connector that won't pull out of the cab if someone steps on it.
You won't regret it. I don't have anything but Speakon in my rig....and only real Neutrik ones, none of the crappy knockoffs.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
heavybdrums wrote: for the W10's which have the "handle holes" sealed, and the ports in the horn body, would you recommend not using the open 1/4" jacks or in this case would it also not matter? .
It won't matter, as it's still a vented enclosure. The only possible issue is that with the greater low frequency capacity and lower tuning is that you might get some whistling noise out of the jacks.
yea the pic modification. thanks for the kind words, I will have to see what material and way to fasten so as to still be able to remove the grille, but I like that idea.
and of course they don't both fit in the same size hole in the cab. 
The last pictures and post for this thread will be totally finished pics, then on to WH10's. This speaker building is too much fun 
