Clamp list suggestions

[FrankORandle]

I am working on a list of clamps to get for building 24" T48's and DR300's to start with. I am going with all Irwin clamps from Lowes and right now I am just over $800.00 which is about where I want to be. The 4" are spring loaded clamps. 6" & 12" are the quick grip bar clamps. 18" & 24" are 1/2" pipe clamps. 36" & 48" are 3/4" pipe clamps. I already have ratcheting straps.

Anything on my list that I should take up or down in quantity? I'll be building four cabs at a time.

16 – 4”
12 - 6”
12 - 12”
4 - 18”
8 - 24”
8 – 36”
8 - 48”
4 - 90 Degree Angle Clamp

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I'd say that's four times what you need. Using the jigs as shown in the plans the number of clamps required is minimal.

[FrankORandle]

I'd say that's four times what you need. Using the jigs as shown in the plans the number of clamps required is minimal.

I do plan on using all of the jigs but I wanted to clamp them as much as possible instead of screwing them in place for things like de-warping along edges.

[David Raehn]

Screwing them in place as in the plans costs nothing more than a handful of drywall screws. Maybe two dollars' worth.
I built 4 T48s at one time with:

[CoronaOperator]

I would toss 2 small c-clamps (i mean really small) on your list for the circular saw sled as the quick release clamps stick out too high for the circular saw to pass over. While one can never have too many clamps in the shop you can get by with only a few. When I built my 2 dual T60's I used two c-clamps, four 24" quick release clamps, and a 36" quick release clamp and I never really had a need for any more. Once I got going, I started brad nailing/screwing the guide board and circular saw guide in place as it was faster and more convenient (no clamp in the way) than clamping. Scrap pieces of ply and the brad nailer for longer improvised clamps. Then I just filled the holes as I went. PL as I went on the insides and then autobody filler on the show sides. A quick sand with 50 grit on the random orbital and smooth as butter.

I'd also recommend a Kreg Jig Jr and the clamp that goes with it. Once you use it you will wonder how you ever lived without one. Definitely the best tool purchase I made in the last year.

[Triticum Agricolam]

When you say you are building 24" T48s is that 24" panel width or outside dimension? I wouldn't bother with clamps shorter than 12". The ones you are going to using the most are 12", 18", & 24" lengths.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I do plan on using all of the jigs but I wanted to clamp them as much as possible instead of screwing them in place for things like de-warping along edges.

Screwing is much faster. I screw the circular saw in place too. The only time I'd clamp rather than screw is with a cab that's going to have a natural finish, where you wouldn't want filled screw holes visible.

[Bruce Weldy]

Screwing them in place as in the plans costs nothing more than a handful of drywall screws. Maybe two dollars' worth.
I built 4 T48s at one time with:

I've reused all the screws from my Titan builds over and over. Once the glue dries, take 'em out.

And I don't think I've ever used a clamp on a sub. Other than the spring clamps and the W braces.

[Triticum Agricolam]

I've reused all the screws from my Titan builds over and over. Once the glue dries, take 'em out.

And I don't think I've ever used a clamp on a sub. Other than the spring clamps and the W braces.

Do not fear the clamp!

[Grant Bunter]

Frank,
I'm not sure you have enough clamps yet, get some more...

Joking...

[Bruce Weldy]

I've reused all the screws from my Titan builds over and over. Once the glue dries, take 'em out.

And I don't think I've ever used a clamp on a sub. Other than the spring clamps and the W braces.

Do not fear the clamp!

Ha....I've got a bunch of 'em.....

But, screws are wwwwaaaaayyyyyy faster and you don't have to wait for stuff to dry before you move on to the next step.

[FrankORandle]

Frank,
I'm not sure you have enough clamps yet, get some more...

Joking...

At the moment I only have two itty bitty clamps. I am still in the list building and spending spree stages.

[DJPhatman]

My question to the OP is: why are you building DR300s? Chances are EXCEPTIONALLY high that you do not need or want DR300s. They would only be recommended for very large outdoor events. Please tell us what your typical event, venue and audience size will be, and we will recommend which design and our opinion about why.

[FrankORandle]

My question to the OP is: why are you building DR300s? Chances are EXCEPTIONALLY high that you do not need or want DR300s. They would only be recommended for very large outdoor events. Please tell us what your typical event, venue and audience size will be, and we will recommend which design and our opinion about why.

I don't need any sound system. I can't even turn up what I have now while running at half power for longer than 15 minutes before my eardrums start going numb.

I am not building this system for any reason other than to have something fun and crazy to do. I do not do any kind of gigs. I have no intentions of starting into that.

Typical event: None. Me being crazy isn't an event. It's a lifestyle.
Typical venue: My small basement.
Audience size: 1

The building I will eventually be renting for a day to fully test the system once completed is 50' x 100'. I wouldn't dare try turning it up at the house. It will be done at the county fair grounds.

[James Champer]

Screwing them in place as in the plans costs nothing more than a handful of drywall screws. Maybe two dollars' worth.
I built 4 T48s at one time with:

I've reused all the screws from my Titan builds over and over. Once the glue dries, take 'em out.

And I don't think I've ever used a clamp on a sub. Other than the spring clamps and the W braces.

+1

Though I do use a few inexpensive clamps to keep things lined up as I'm drilling/countersinking. Once the screws, or air brads, are in, clamps come off!