My Titan-39 build

[billkatz]

Finally got to the woofer breakin on the first of my 4 drivers (the DR plans don't talk about driver breakin, but I assume the 2510s need the same breakin as the 3012LFs). Grabbed the old waveform generator, my son's bass amp (my Crown should be here Thursday) and my trusty multimeter and set up this test station.

I also picked up some terminal strips today to start building the crossovers for the DR250s.

[Grant Bunter]

the DR plans don't talk about driver breakin, but I assume the 2510s need the same breakin as the 3012LFs.

If you're going to break in your 2510's don't feed them as much voltage. Try say 5-6V and 80Hz.

Displacement limiting for 2510's in DR250's is 40V, so they don't need quite as much...

[Tom Smit]

Any suggestions on how to get the front painted in such a way that:
a) the hurricane threads don't get jammed with paint
b) the screws don't get their sockets jammed with paint
c) everything gets painted

How about coating the access cover separately from the cab. Don't put the gasket tape on yet. Dip the machine screws in oil, even vegetable oil would work, and run them through the nuts (not dripping wet). After coating the cab is complete, use a sharp pointed tool to remove the large chunks of coating, followed by a tap to clean out the rest of the threads.

[billkatz]

My first T39 is approaching completion. I figured out how to protect the hurricane nuts with some blue painter's tape, then put the cover on while I painted it. I will chase the holes in the cover with the appropriate drill bit before I bolt it in.

Next I got out the duratex roller, and painted 5 sides of the first T39 and the first DR250. I also painted one side of the second of each kind of cabinet.

Tonight I put on the chevron corners, casters, jack plate, and mounted the driver. I'm a little worried that the recex screws don't have threads on the top part, and the directions said that with a light driver I only needed 1 mounting ring.

I also realized that the cover didn't have its brace, so I glued that on tonight. I also need to go out and buy some hose for the leak test. Tomorrow is the leak test.

[billkatz]

I decided that my shortest path to hearing something good is to finish one T39 and one DR250, and then go back and finish the second of each. Once the woofer was broken in, the path to a finished t39 was straightforward. I added the brace to the access panel and installed the gasket tape. I checked around the edge of the driver for leaks, as well as the edges of the baffle. Finding nothing, I installed the access cover

Then I fired up the 30 Hz and checked around the cover for leaks. Nothing that stood out with the hose in my ear. I did a slow sweep from 40 Hz- 100 Hz at about 10V. I could make things rattle all over the house. With the corners and casters on, this one is done except for paint on the back side:

I'll get to that soon, but now back to the DR.