n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

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TrevorMag
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:32 pm
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n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#1 Post by TrevorMag »

As outlined in a couple of other threads, my first and biggest mistake was to use AWP marine ply, which is very stiff and strong, but also very heavy.
It also had a bit of a "pullups" issue, as can be seen here.
Attachments
03 pullups 2.jpg
05 all the major cuts done.jpg

TrevorMag
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:32 pm
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#2 Post by TrevorMag »

Handle and jack plate cutouts were done with my router's template follower and some pine offcuts.
Attachments
08 router template for handle cutout 2.jpg
11 handle cutout cleaned up.jpg

TrevorMag
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#3 Post by TrevorMag »

I used the same system to do the vent cutouts.
Attachments
13 router template for middle vent openings.jpg
14 middle vent opening cleaned up.jpg

TrevorMag
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:32 pm
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#4 Post by TrevorMag »

I made a perspex jig to do the driver cutouts, since my router didn't have a circle jig. Since the position of the centre hole is critical, I made a test cut first to check my measurements!
Attachments
17 speaker cutout jig for rounter 3.jpg
20 speaker cutout 2.jpg
22 all cutouts done.jpg
Last edited by TrevorMag on Wed Feb 11, 2015 11:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

TrevorMag
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:32 pm
Location: Hobart
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#5 Post by TrevorMag »

As discussed in another thread, the glue I chose was too runny. If you ever find yourself in this situation, oven paper is your friend!
I also had to adjust the width of the baffle, and I have mounted my hand sander (using dowels - removable) to a sheet of MDF.
Attachments
25 too much glue 1.jpg
28 adjusting width of baffle.jpg
29 baffle glued in.jpg
Last edited by TrevorMag on Wed Feb 11, 2015 11:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

TrevorMag
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:32 pm
Location: Hobart
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#6 Post by TrevorMag »

In keeping with the Jedi theme of this esteemed website, <gestures> "these are not the clamping images you are looking for"!
Attachments
32 non standard clamping of middle vents.jpg
33 non standard clamping of corner vents.jpg
36 speaker screw retention blocks installed.jpg

TrevorMag
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#7 Post by TrevorMag »

The bracing was clamped in an ever so slightly more legitimate manner
Attachments
40 side and vertical bracing.jpg
46 glueing half depth back bracing 2.jpg

TrevorMag
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#8 Post by TrevorMag »

When removing some of the bracing screws, the glue had gripped them so firmly that they sheared right off. Fortunately, this didn't happen on any of the edges I intended to round over.
Attachments
44 sheared off screw.jpg

TrevorMag
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#9 Post by TrevorMag »

I pressed the damping foam down on the bracing, then turned it over and marked the temporary indentations before they disappeared.
Attachments
48 pressing down on damping foam.jpg
49 marking bracing indentations.jpg
57 back with damping.jpg

TrevorMag
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:32 pm
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#10 Post by TrevorMag »

Attaching the back, being deliberately generous with the runny glue to guard against leaks.
Attachments
59 generous glueing for back.jpg
61 filling the screw holes.jpg

TrevorMag
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#11 Post by TrevorMag »

I used the same perspex jig to keep the router level when doing the roundovers.
The "inset" baffle presented a problem, as the edges that extend past it are not thick enough to support the roundover bit's guide wheel.
I therefore had to "pad it out" (and level everything) so that a roundover could be cut on the protruding sides, top and base.
Attachments
63 router with roundover bit and perspex jig.jpg
64 padding out the baffle for router guide wheel.jpg
66 roundover complete.jpg

TrevorMag
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:32 pm
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#12 Post by TrevorMag »

I decided to build a grille standoff, which I don't think I would do again.
Attachments
70 grill standoff pieces.jpg
71 grille standoff installed.jpg

TrevorMag
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#13 Post by TrevorMag »

The magic of Duratex is that someone as obviously green as myself can get such a brilliant looking result!
I brushed on the first layer, sanded it, then put on two more with the roller.
As the Hobart summer was as unreliable as ever, I used the back my car as a curing oven.
Attachments
69 first coat of duratex.jpg
73 final layer of duratex.jpg
76 paint curing oven.jpg

TrevorMag
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#14 Post by TrevorMag »

I found a sheet metal workshop that sold me some perforated metal at a very good price, and cut to size.
I sprayed it with metal primer, then red enamel. This stuff forms a fine red dust that gets everywhere!
Attachments
74 perforated metal grille.jpg
75 spraying metal primer.jpg
77 spraying red enamel.jpg

TrevorMag
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:32 pm
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)

#15 Post by TrevorMag »

I bought some aluminium bar to frame the grille, and cut it to size with a hand hacksaw.
I went for the brushed aluminium look, at first with an actual brush but then found that sandpaper gave a more uniform result.
Finished off with a sprayed layer of clearcoat.
Attachments
78 cutting aluminium.jpg
80 brushed aluminium.jpg
82 clearcoat and drilling.jpg

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