n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
As outlined in a couple of other threads, my first and biggest mistake was to use AWP marine ply, which is very stiff and strong, but also very heavy.
It also had a bit of a "pullups" issue, as can be seen here.
It also had a bit of a "pullups" issue, as can be seen here.
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
Handle and jack plate cutouts were done with my router's template follower and some pine offcuts.
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
I used the same system to do the vent cutouts.
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
I made a perspex jig to do the driver cutouts, since my router didn't have a circle jig. Since the position of the centre hole is critical, I made a test cut first to check my measurements!
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Last edited by TrevorMag on Wed Feb 11, 2015 11:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
As discussed in another thread, the glue I chose was too runny. If you ever find yourself in this situation, oven paper is your friend!
I also had to adjust the width of the baffle, and I have mounted my hand sander (using dowels - removable) to a sheet of MDF.
I also had to adjust the width of the baffle, and I have mounted my hand sander (using dowels - removable) to a sheet of MDF.
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Last edited by TrevorMag on Wed Feb 11, 2015 11:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
In keeping with the Jedi theme of this esteemed website, <gestures> "these are not the clamping images you are looking for"!
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
The bracing was clamped in an ever so slightly more legitimate manner
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
When removing some of the bracing screws, the glue had gripped them so firmly that they sheared right off. Fortunately, this didn't happen on any of the edges I intended to round over.
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
I pressed the damping foam down on the bracing, then turned it over and marked the temporary indentations before they disappeared.
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
Attaching the back, being deliberately generous with the runny glue to guard against leaks.
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
I used the same perspex jig to keep the router level when doing the roundovers.
The "inset" baffle presented a problem, as the edges that extend past it are not thick enough to support the roundover bit's guide wheel.
I therefore had to "pad it out" (and level everything) so that a roundover could be cut on the protruding sides, top and base.
The "inset" baffle presented a problem, as the edges that extend past it are not thick enough to support the roundover bit's guide wheel.
I therefore had to "pad it out" (and level everything) so that a roundover could be cut on the protruding sides, top and base.
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
I decided to build a grille standoff, which I don't think I would do again.
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
The magic of Duratex is that someone as obviously green as myself can get such a brilliant looking result!
I brushed on the first layer, sanded it, then put on two more with the roller.
As the Hobart summer was as unreliable as ever, I used the back my car as a curing oven.
I brushed on the first layer, sanded it, then put on two more with the roller.
As the Hobart summer was as unreliable as ever, I used the back my car as a curing oven.
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
I found a sheet metal workshop that sold me some perforated metal at a very good price, and cut to size.
I sprayed it with metal primer, then red enamel. This stuff forms a fine red dust that gets everywhere!
I sprayed it with metal primer, then red enamel. This stuff forms a fine red dust that gets everywhere!
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Re: n00b Simplexx 210 (Hobart, Australia)
I bought some aluminium bar to frame the grille, and cut it to size with a hand hacksaw.
I went for the brushed aluminium look, at first with an actual brush but then found that sandpaper gave a more uniform result.
Finished off with a sprayed layer of clearcoat.
I went for the brushed aluminium look, at first with an actual brush but then found that sandpaper gave a more uniform result.
Finished off with a sprayed layer of clearcoat.
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