18" T30 Build

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CoronaOperator
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:07 pm
Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada

Re: 18" T30 Build

#16 Post by CoronaOperator »

Tom Smit wrote:The vid with the 2" driver is hilarious.
Mount it in the dead space of a T60 with a plexi cover and watch people scratch their heads.
Built:
17" width 10" driver Autotuba
2 x 29" width dual Lab12 Tuba60
6 x DR250 2510/asd1001
In progress:
2 x DR250 2510/asd1001
For best results, point the loud end of the array towards the audience

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J_Dunavin
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Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 3:13 pm
Location: Appleton WI
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#17 Post by J_Dunavin »

:loler:
2 - OTop8
2 - T39
8 - DR200
2 - DR250
9 - T24
6 - T45
1 - Auto Tuba

abrockey
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:29 pm

Re: 18" T30 Build

#18 Post by abrockey »

Well, they have finally made it back to my shop. Tonight I start wood filling and sanding to prep for paint. I think I'm going to try the Restore 10x on them (on a scrap piece first of course) as see how it goes. If it works out well, I'll use it on my pa tops as well. I really dislike carpet on cabs!

Image

abrockey
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:29 pm

Re: 18" T30 Build

#19 Post by abrockey »

CoronaOperator wrote:Mount it in the dead space of a T60 with a plexi cover and watch people scratch their heads.
We're going to do SOMETHING with them.

johns811
Posts: 169
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 10:34 am

Re: 18" T30 Build

#20 Post by johns811 »

Restore 10x is not a good product. I would reconsider using it.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#21 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

abrockey wrote: I think I'm going to try the Restore 10x on them (on a scrap piece first of course) as see how it goes.
Don't. It has a rough sandpaper like finish, and if you rub your hands or other body parts against it the result will be as if it was finished in 40 grit sandpaper. Use DuraTex.

abrockey
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:29 pm

Re: 18" T30 Build

#22 Post by abrockey »

Thanks guys. I've searched for alternatives based on the experience my friend has had with it but at the end of the day all roads lead back to duratex. I have shifted gears and will use duratex. Time to fire up the wood stove!!

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#23 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

abrockey wrote:I've searched for alternatives based on the experience my friend has had with it
If your friend had a bad experience with DuraTex it was due to user error. It's the best product I've ever used, only surpassed by by LineX, which costs at least three times as much.

abrockey
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:29 pm

Re: 18" T30 Build

#24 Post by abrockey »

Do your speakers stick together when you stack them? That's the issue he has. Its been over 4 years since he build his speakers and while dry to the touch, they are like glue after the speakers have been stacked. Any ideas? I've read the tips, watched the videos, and searched the web. I can't find anything about it anywhere! Only 5 star reviews!

Bruce Weldy
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Location: New Braunfels, TX

Re: 18" T30 Build

#25 Post by Bruce Weldy »

abrockey wrote:Do your speakers stick together when you stack them? That's the issue he has. Its been over 4 years since he build his speakers and while dry to the touch, they are like glue after the speakers have been stacked. Any ideas? I've read the tips, watched the videos, and searched the web. I can't find anything about it anywhere! Only 5 star reviews!

They didn't get cured properly.

Secondly put chevron corners on those things! Then they don't stick and stack perfectly. Even if you have rubber feet on 'em - flip the top one over so it locks to the bottom one.

6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210


"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."

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DJPhatman
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#26 Post by DJPhatman »

Bruce Weldy wrote:They didn't get cured properly.
+1. Or, the user didn't apply at the proper temperature. Or maybe (s)he even forgot to mix the DuraTex just before use. How did your friend apply the DuraTex? Did (s)he spray it, roll it or brush it? Was it applied with a thin 1st coat, allowed to fully cure then followed by a thicker 2nd and following coats, allowing for plenty of cure time in between?

Follow ALL the instructions that come with DuraTex. Don't worry about sanding the wood with any grit higher than 80, as it is a waste of time.
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice

abrockey
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:29 pm

Re: 18" T30 Build

#27 Post by abrockey »

So, I ordered duratex last wednesday... too cold to ship, hold till monday... monday get a call, too cold to ship, tuesday, too cold to ship. I cancelled the order. I agree they have the best product for this, but the weather forecast isn't going to get any better anytime soon. SO... I need options. Obviously the restore products are out, what else is there? One thought is the roll on bed liner from rustoleum. Thoughts? Ideas? My tubas are prepped and ready for paint!

:fingers:

oh yeah, I called the local line-x. They want $125 per box... next.

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#28 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

abrockey wrote:So, I ordered duratex last wednesday... too cold to ship, hold till monday... monday get a call, too cold to ship, tuesday, too cold to ship. I cancelled the order. I agree they have the best product for this, but the weather forecast isn't going to get any better anytime soon. SO... I need options. Obviously the restore products are out, what else is there? One thought is the roll on bed liner from rustoleum. Thoughts? Ideas? My tubas are prepped and ready for paint!
It's also too cold to apply it, and too cold to cure it. If you use a bedliner in the house the stink will drive you out, and then you'll be too cold too.

abrockey
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:29 pm

Re: 18" T30 Build

#29 Post by abrockey »

I have a heated 40x40 shop to work in w/ wood stove and 100,000 BTU oil fired furnace. I've also been leaving the furnace on keeping the shop at 50 degrees since the temperatures plunged below freezing.

ripNdeb
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Location: Eureka, CA
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Re: 18" T30 Build

#30 Post by ripNdeb »

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: It's also too cold to apply it, and too cold to cure it.
Since we're on the subject, would one of those cheapy 500W halogens like HD sells help to cure properly. Or, are there other factors like humidity etc. to consider? This would probably be in a garage at 50f ambient temps and it's usually high humidity around here (N. coast CA)
2X OTop 112, 3012HO, melded - 2X T39, 27", Lab 12 - XF 212 - 4 DR250, 2 melded, 2 straight
2 20" T39 3012LF - WH10 - WH8 - in the shop - 2 more 20" T39s
http://saltandlighteureka.org still need a trailer :)

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