Duratex: spray vs. roller

[DaveK]

I just finished rolling the first coat of Duratex on a T39 and I have a new-found interest in sprayers.

How do you guys who spray Duratex cover all the nooks and crannies like inside handle holes and the back edge of mouth braces? Also, is it easy to get complete coverage without any runs? Do you have any problems with banding where different spray passes meet?

[Tim A]

How do you guys who spray Duratex cover all the nooks and crannies like inside handle holes and the back edge of mouth braces?

The back edge of braces I hit with a brush prior to installing. Handle holes just get sprayed. Look at it from all angles. If you see wood, shoot it. If you can't see it, fuggedaboudit.

Also, is it easy to get complete coverage without any runs?

Yes, but a piece of scrap or carboard is useful to get your gun settings first. I spray the first and second coats with very little trigger travel, then open it up a bit more for the splatter coat.

Do you have any problems with banding where different spray passes meet?

No, it blends very well. You may see a bit in direct sunlight if you're looking for it. If it bugs you, just do another splatter coat. It's also easy to repair for the same reasons.

[DaveK]

Thanks Tim, that's encouraging. How do you support the cabinet while spraying? Also, how do you rotate it to hit all 6 sides?

[Tim A]

The only cab I've been able to shoot all sides at once is the OTop 12 because the back comes off. On the others you just have to shoot 5 sides and wait for it to dry. It doesn't take long.

[UNDERTONE]

anyone else tried the spray grade of the duratex yet? i found the regular stuff to go on much better, but you end up wasting a lot cos its so thick, plus it takes a long time to drip through to the gun. so next i tried the spray grade, and now it actually goes on too thin- its harder to get a nice splatter effect now. (i have the recommended hopper gun set up.) suggestions anyone?

[LelandCrooks]

I struggled with the new spray grade also. I think it requires higher pressures, which makes compressors a problem. High cfm and higher pressures require very large compressors. I used an actual hopper compressor, which is high cfm (20-30) and about 30lbs pressure. No shop compressor will put out more than 5-10 cfm, unless it's a monster.

I should be spraying again tomorrow. I'll report on some different pressures and cfms.

[Frankenspeakers]

Good to know.. If I do any spraying I'll have to take it in to work. (1 50 HP 215 cfm Ingersoll Rand UP6 [POS lemon] going b*lls to the wall with 2 45 KW VFD compressors on trim/backupest 230 cfm ea.) I want to try out one of those Harbor Freight jobbies. {contemplating the evil that unlimited cfm can create }

note: IR regional center across street, 2 weeks ago one compressor went 'down' and both backups failed to pick up the load... one 4 month old unit is still down awaiting parts. Small (5-20 HP IR compressors are bulletproof- 12+ years experience, but the bigger units are cr*p. and with IR management turned over several times, I still cant get a service guy in a timely manner. so be forewarned.

Edit:I tend to get annoyed when the molding supervisor runs in to tell me that we have no air pressure and 50 injection molding machines and their ancillary equipment is down... not to mention the assembly robotics and the tooling department... noooo Frankie no like that at all... especially when the IR service manager says he can't send anyone over- from across the street nobody available- (and he can't be troubled to break friction from his chair to go across the street himself!) :::cue Nazareth's 'Hair of the Dog':::

[LelandCrooks]

note: IR regional center across street, 2 weeks ago one compressor went 'down' and both backups failed to pick up the load... one 4 month old unit is still down awaiting parts. Small (5-20 HP IR compressors are bulletproof- 12+ years experience, but the bigger units are cr*p. and with IR management turned over several times, I still cant get a service guy in a timely manner. so be forewarned.

My kind of customer. Local industry air goes down, they call us. We hookup up from 1 to 3 185 CFM Atlas Copco compressors to run the plant. 24hrs a day, extra charges for the 24hr runtimes, until theirs is fixed. Makes my cash register happy.

[Frankenspeakers]

I wanted to go with Atlas-Copco or Keiser, but I was overruled by the bean counters when the IR salesman pretty much gave us the 'Nirvana' variable frequency drive compressors for cost. (And said that he would give us a really good deal on the maintenance contract- four months and a few calls to the new air center GM and that reasonable maintenance contract has swelled to $10 grand!) Been telling the bean counters "I told youse so"... at least PG&E is giving out cash rebates for new energy saving equipment, thats a help... Got 11,000 back for converting from metal halide lighting to fluorescent... and some more for the new compressors, but thats only a deal if the compressors actually work. I'n still pushing to return those POS's under the LEMON LAW.

[MalcolmA]

How do you support the cabinet while spraying? Also, how do you rotate it to hit all 6 sides?

I'm only on my first project, so this is only my theory not experience, but since I have castors already on the back of my tuba, I plan to sit it in normal position and paint the back first(around castors, masked) then paiint the other 4 or so sides. once these are done, very carefully tip it up onto its back (so mouth is facing upwards), castors will keep the paint on back panel off the ground, then il paint the bottom. There may be flaws in my plan, and il leave it open to comment from others, but hopefully it may help.

Aside from that, painting 5 sides then 6th side later as suggested is a simple solution.

Hope this helps,
Malcolm

[DAVID_L_PERRY]

........since I have castors already on the back of my tuba, I plan to sit it in normal position and paint the back first(around castors, masked) then paiint the other 4 or so sides. ...............There may be flaws in my plan, and il leave it open to comment from others,..........

Best to remove all hardware before you paint the cab, just accept that you will have to allow it to dry first , but it is very quick to do so. If you dont do this you will end up with paint all over your wheels....I promise. Not only that, if you change the wheels you will have an area unpainted...

Dave 'I like to roller cos I aint got no compressor' perry

[Tim A]

just accept that you will have to allow it to dry first

+1.

You've just spent a lot of time building a primo cabinet, why rush the finish?

[MYork]

Does all this "air compressor speak" mean I will, or won't, be able to use a trusty Craftsman 2hp, 33 gal, vertical air compressor to spray Duratex?

[LelandCrooks]

You will. Be prepared to spray in very short bursts, waiting for the compressor to recover. When the pressure drops, the spray pattern becomes very coarse. Your compressor is probably in the 8-10 cfm range.

[MYork]

It's rated at 8.6 SCFM @ 40psi, 6.4 SCFM @90psi. Is this adequate? Thanks! MY