23 Gauge Pin Nailer Instead of Brads on Jack 12L Build

[S1Player]

I know - Follow the plans is the rule around here.

But, was wondering if it would be acceptable to substitute a Pin Nailer using 23 gauge pins instead of Brads - for nailing together the cabinet during the glue up on a Jack 12L.

Perhaps I should consider one of the headed 23 ga pin nailers - for more holding power with the PL glue.

Since the Pin Nails generally do not require filling and the router can be used through them - I was hoping to save some of the finish work of filling and sanding PL.

Thank you for opinions.

[Frederic Gelinas]

You can use small pins, it works. Make sure you don't drop the cab until the glue is dry because the pins don't have a lot of holding power. Handle with care.

[Bruce Weldy]

As the PL expands, it may push the panel right past the pin since it has no head. Go with brads.

[SoundInMotionDJ]

If you have a pin nailer and not a brad nailer....by all means give it a shot. 1.25" would be my minimum nail length for any cabinet here. BUT, between warped panels and the expansion of PL, I would add more than "needed" and make sure you install them in a "XXXXXXXX" pattern along each seam.

[Bruce Weldy]

If you have a pin nailer and not a brad nailer....by all means give it a shot. 1.25" would be my minimum nail length for any cabinet here. BUT, between warped panels and the expansion of PL, I would add more than "needed" and make sure you install them in a "XXXXXXXX" pattern along each seam.

You are absolutely right. But, with more pins there are more misses and more pins sticking out the side....especially having to go at an angle.

You are spending several hundred dollars building cabs. Spend a few on the appropriate tool that you'll have and use forever.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

1.25" would be my minimum nail length for any cabinet here.

+1, and I believe that pins only go to 1". If I only could have one I'd have a brad nailer, not only because they can drive 1 1/4" brads but also staples.

[S1Player]

The pin nailer I am looking at shoots 23 Ga Brads that have a small head on the top which supplies more holding power. And, they shoot 23 GA brads up to 2 inches - though that would not be practical on the thinner material of the Jack Lite.

I'll eventually likely need a Brad nailer as well, so may just plan to get both.

Would love to get by without having to fill and sand all those brad holes. Especially since I'd like to do a furniture type clear finish on the cabinet I think - rather than duratex.

[Bruce Weldy]

Would love to get by without having to fill and sand all those brad holes. Especially since I'd like to do a furniture type clear finish on the cabinet I think - rather than duratex.

In that case......no brads....all clamps. Won't be easy, but can be done. Pocket screws or biscuits would make it easier.

[S1Player]

Would love to get by without having to fill and sand all those brad holes. Especially since I'd like to do a furniture type clear finish on the cabinet I think - rather than duratex.

In that case......no brads....all clamps. Won't be easy, but can be done. Pocket screws or biscuits would make it easier.

Pocket Screw Minimum stock thickness is .5". Biscuit minimum thickness for the wood stock is three eighths. So, Neither of those seem a candidate for the Jack Lite construction - since it is .25" thick - other than the horn sheaths which are .125".

So, it would appear that all glue would be another option to examine.

[Bruce Weldy]

Would love to get by without having to fill and sand all those brad holes. Especially since I'd like to do a furniture type clear finish on the cabinet I think - rather than duratex.

In that case......no brads....all clamps. Won't be easy, but can be done. Pocket screws or biscuits would make it easier.

Pocket Screw Minimum stock thickness is .5". Biscuit minimum thickness for the wood stock is three eighths. So, Neither of those seem a candidate for the Jack Lite construction - since it is .25" thick - other than the horn sheaths which are .125".

So, it would appear that all glue would be another option to examine.

ahhhh...didn't think about it being a lite.

[LelandCrooks]

I use a pin nailer extensively. Drive at opposing angles along the board. 1" will do it. The longer ones will turn out of the ply unless you're really damn good. Drive a lot of them. I'd probably shoot 7 or 8 at least on a jack side.

Compress the joint before you nail. The pins will not pull it into place like a brad nailer.

[tvan]

I also use my pin nailer all the time.

My main use is to keep parts from shifting as I apply clamps. If a clamp is slightly misaligned, the slippery PL acts like grease and the parts can creep out of alignment. If I tighten the clamps too much, it can cause an assembly or panel to bow or twist. The tiny pins keep everything aligned with the minimum clamp pressure.

I also find the pins work better than brads when trying to secure lightweight braces in the T series horns. Brads tend to split/splinter the brace if you miss the center by a little bit.

Yes, insufficient pins can allow the PL to push panels apart. Been there, done that. Leland's opposing angle suggestion works well to prevent that.

I've found that if the pin is slightly protruding after gluing, the sanding process grinds them flush and doesn't seem to tear the sandpaper (at least the heavy grits I use before duratexing). This is good because I have had little luck pulling pins out after the PL has set. They usually just snap off.

My main rationalization for pins over brads is lessening the chance of damaging a brad point drill bit or router bit if I hit one.

Brads certainly have their place too, but I wouldn't drop the pin nailer out of your arsenal either.

[caddylackn]

I use the 23 gauge pin for center bracing by shooting a pin at 45 degrees in each end on each side of a brace. Holds it perfect until the PL sets up. The pin nailer is also good for setting temp bracing. A 23 gauge is nice because you don't have to put hardly any pressure on the panel to fire it.

I use a 16 gauge brad nailer with 1-1/4" brads for assembly of the main panels. The 16 gauge has a much bigger head than an 18 gauge and has much more holding power. The 16 gauge is also much stiffer so you can drive them back out from the backside with a hammer if you miss and the 16 gauge head is big enough for a claw hammer to grip if you need to pull one out. You can't do that with an 18 gauge. A router doesn't like 16 gauge brad heads and it can mess up a bit, so you have to set the head with a punch to countersink so you can use a roundover router bit on the corners.