I bought some surplus projection cloth from Carl's actually it is this stuff here from clearance http://www.carlofet.com/clearance-proje ... mnant.html
For a 16/9 screen it will all fit on a pc of plywood. Obviously I will take off the sharp edges on the plywood and staple the material. enough for an aprox 70" screen for less than $20 surplus.
Just wondering if anyone has done this?
I will use 2.5" black painted molding all the way around and mount it on my wall. Just wondering if you have experience to share?
Using plywood and fabric for projection screen
Re: Using plywood and fabric for projection screen
I used to have a theater with a 108" front projection drop down screen. Lately I have been researching and learning about how much brighter a rear projection screen is. There are quite a few online peeps are using a $3 shower curtain liner for rear projection screens. I am planning to set up some kind projection in my back yard and trying to figure out what kind of set up to use. We have used a cheap inflatable 12' projection screen in the past, but the fan noise and overall size of the setup isn't what I am looking for.
2 THTs, 2 TLAH, SLA curved, 1 8-AT, 1 AT JBL 1002D, 4 Otop12s, Jack 12, TT with Eminence 10", 2 SLAs, 1 T30 slim, 2 T30s (2-10" each), SLA Pros, TrT.
Re: Using plywood and fabric for projection screen
I've had to climb in behind quite a few 35mm theater screens to get at their speakers. Usually they are a stretched vinyl material tensioned with a bungee cord arrangement around the perimeter through grommets. The material is perforated allowing some sound to pass, but still not the ideal location for speakers. This provides a flat, wrinkle free surface for projection.
Edit: I remember some of the smaller, old 8 foot projection screens used in the schools had a highly reflective surface that appeared very bright while still using a fairly low power quartz iodine bulb in the projectors, probably no more than a couple hundred watts. If you could find some of this material at a reasonable cost, it might be what you're looking for.
The problem with rear projection is you need to project at an angle to get rid of the direct point source of light from the projector from creating a hot-spot on the image. This puts bigger demands on the quality of lens used to obtain a sharp overall picture. The other issue is a rear projection screen never seems to create as sharp an image due to screen refraction, compared to front projection.
Edit: I remember some of the smaller, old 8 foot projection screens used in the schools had a highly reflective surface that appeared very bright while still using a fairly low power quartz iodine bulb in the projectors, probably no more than a couple hundred watts. If you could find some of this material at a reasonable cost, it might be what you're looking for.
The problem with rear projection is you need to project at an angle to get rid of the direct point source of light from the projector from creating a hot-spot on the image. This puts bigger demands on the quality of lens used to obtain a sharp overall picture. The other issue is a rear projection screen never seems to create as sharp an image due to screen refraction, compared to front projection.
Built
T48s
WH8s
SX212
T48s
WH8s
SX212
Re: Using plywood and fabric for projection screen
I built a frame out of 1x4's for my screen. Used blackout cloth over it. I would advise against using a solid piece of plywood simply because of weight. With a 1x4 frame, the screen itself is very light. Mine's a lot like this one:bluespoet wrote:I bought some surplus projection cloth from Carl's actually it is this stuff here from clearance http://www.carlofet.com/clearance-proje ... mnant.html
For a 16/9 screen it will all fit on a pc of plywood. Obviously I will take off the sharp edges on the plywood and staple the material. enough for an aprox 70" screen for less than $20 surplus.
Just wondering if anyone has done this?
I will use 2.5" black painted molding all the way around and mount it on my wall. Just wondering if you have experience to share?
http://www.engadget.com/2006/08/29/how- ... or-screen/
Re: Using plywood and fabric for projection screen
I just thought someone might have used plywood. Seems to me pretty simple to have the plywood cut to size, round the edges, stretch fabric, screw to studs in the wall. Screw about 1.25" from edge of plywood into studs, install molding with finish nails. Use black felt tip pen to color nails black and finished.
I don't see any reason for this to be in the electronics section since there is no electronics involved. Should be in the home theater forum where it does apply. So have no idea why moved to an inappropriate forum?
I don't see any reason for this to be in the electronics section since there is no electronics involved. Should be in the home theater forum where it does apply. So have no idea why moved to an inappropriate forum?
Re: Using plywood and fabric for projection screen
The trouble with that approach is that during the "bright" scenes, you may notice the plywood detail which may detract from the movie. I've read, also, where people have used drywall (gypsum board, plaster board, wall board), and the wall details show through even though it was sanded smooth and painted.
Now, some people might not notice at all, whereas others will find it distracting.
Now, some people might not notice at all, whereas others will find it distracting.
TomS
Re: Using plywood and fabric for projection screen
Since you are thinking the plywood route, you might read this DIY thread as well, using WilsonArt laminate material, seems pretty popular on the DIY forum
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-s ... build.html
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-s ... build.html
Re: Using plywood and fabric for projection screen
I use a sheet of "Do-able" that I got from Home Depot. Here's a thread for more info:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-s ... hread.html
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-s ... hread.html
2X OTop 112, 3012HO, melded - 2X T39, 27", Lab 12 - XF 212 - 4 DR250, 2 melded, 2 straight
2 20" T39 3012LF - WH10 - WH8 - in the shop - 2 more 20" T39s
http://saltandlighteureka.org still need a trailer
2 20" T39 3012LF - WH10 - WH8 - in the shop - 2 more 20" T39s
http://saltandlighteureka.org still need a trailer
